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    Tastemakers 2015

    Houston's best neighborhood restaurants: Tastemaker standouts offer great comfort food

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 24, 2015 | 1:06 pm

    Many people love sitting down to a multiple course dinner at a fine dining establishment where the staff takes care of customers as if they're a rich uncle who may include you in his will if he's properly coddled. But realistically, no one, other than CultureMap executive editor-at-large Shelby Hodge, eats that way very often.

    While the exact definition can be tricky, people instinctively know a neighborhood restaurant when they see it: casual, affordable, open all day, diverse menu, etc.

    Mostly, people turn to casual restaurants in their neighborhoods when work runs late or someone forgot to defrost the chicken or the thought of cooking in a Houston kitchen in July sounds about as appealing as a trip to the dentist.

    On those nights, a good neighborhood restaurant is a lifesaver: offering comfort and sustenance. While the exact definition can be tricky, people instinctively know a neighborhood restaurant when they see it: casual, affordable, open all day, diverse menu, etc.

    Our panel of restaurant industry experts think the restaurants below both exemplify and elevate what people love about neighborhood restaurants. Who will join Down House as a CultureMap Tastemakers Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year winner? Find out May 13 at the party we're throwing to celebrate the winners. Tickets are going fast.

    The nominees are:

    Bernie's Burger Bus
    So often restaurant owners complain about the high cost of real estate inside the loop, but they stubbornly insist on opening there anyway. When Justin Turner decided to open a brick and mortar location of his ultra-popular food truck, he bucked the trend by finding a space in a strip center in the Bellaire triangle. The result has been a smash-hit in an underserved neighborhood and a destination for burger-lovers from across the city. Also, turns out that sitting and waiting for your burger to be delivered is a lot more pleasant than standing around a parking lot listening for your name over a scratchy speaker.

    Coltivare
    This Italian-inspired spot from Revival Market principles Morgan Weber and chef Ryan Pera features an evolving menu, reasonable prices and a sophisticated selection of wine, beer and spirits. Coltivare charms diners by being casual and comfortable, especially when the weather is nice enough to sit on the patio adjacent to its 3,000 square-foot garden. Even if it doesn't satisfy the requirement to serve lunch, its status as the current holder of the unofficial title of "the restaurant Houston chefs dine at on their own time" sets it apart. Maybe that's why — spoiler alert — you'll see it again when our Restaurant of the Year finalists are announced.

    Cuchara
    Located at the same intersection that's home to Gratifi, Max's Wine Dive and Boheme, Cuchara brings the comfort foods of Mexico City to the heart of Montrose. The charming dining room features art by owner Ana Beaven's sister Cecilia that gives the space a vibrant atmosphere. The daily, $15, three-course lunch specials offer exceptional value for high-quality food, and the dinner menu contains enough variety to appeal to just about everyone. The idea of paying for salsa may be anathema to most Houstonians, but these are worth the $8 fee every time.

    Hugo's
    Many people consider Hugo's to be one of Houston's best restaurants, but our panelists note that people who only see it as a special destination are missing out. After all, Hugo's is open for lunch or brunch every day, and almost everything on the menu costs less than $30. Pop-in for a ceviche or a couple of small plates at the bar for a change of pace. The celebrated Sunday brunch will still be there when the time is right. Probably best to go soon — if chef/owner Hugo Ortega finally wins a much-deserved James Beard Award, tables will be a lot harder to come by.

    Liberty Kitchen and Oysterette
    Liberty Kitchen's River Oaks outpost offers more than just one of the city's best-looking dining rooms. A crowd-pleasing menu that's equally adept at carefully-prepared cold seafood dishes and hunks of meat carved tableside means everyone can find a dish to enjoy. Knowledgeable, efficient servers keep the demanding crowd happy. No wonder ownership group F.E.E.D. TX is opening at least two more locations in Houston and one in Austin.

    Paulie's
    Paulie's is the only back-to-back nominee in this category, and the reasons it's so well-liked are easy to understand. Reasonable prices, well-executed food and a spirit of true hospitality from the all-barista staff help Paulie's stand above other counter-service restaurants. Whether popping in for a salad at lunch or indulging in the Thursday night osso bucco special with a bottle of red wine from its well-chosen list, Paulie's flat out delivers. If it doesn't win this year, expect it to keep getting nominated until it does.

    The Queen Vic Pub & Kitchen
    Five years ago, this Anglo-Indian pub in Upper Kirby was one of the first Houston restaurants to blend innovative cuisine with a well-chosen selection of craft beer and cocktails. Even as the trend has caught on, the Queen Vic has remained popular. Credit chef Shiva Patel for delivering classics like Beef Wellington and fish and chips that are both well-executed and presented in a modern way. Besides, who can say no to a Scotch egg wrapped in lamb curry and topped with tomato curry masala? Not our panelists, that's for sure.

    Paulie's.

    Paulie's restaurant Houston at night
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    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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