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    Like coming home

    Ninfa's new neighbor competitor restaurant opens with a bang, heating up the Tex-Mex battle

    Tyler Rudick
    Feb 14, 2013 | 7:29 am

    After more than a decade, the Laurenzo family is back on Navigation — the East End thoroughfare where matriarch Mama Ninfa Laurenzo opened her namesake cafe in 1973.

    "This is where it all started, so it's like coming home," says Roland Laurenzo from the newest branch of El Tiempo, which opened this week just steps from his mother's original Tex-Mex restaurant.

    Roland, his wife Bianca and his son Domenic launched El Tiempo in 1998 when the Ninfa's empire slipped from family control. In the last 15 years, the Laurenzos have carried Mama's torch to four other Tiempo outposts.

    "We didn't want it to feel like it was brand new. We've tried to hire as many local artisans as possible, which helps things feel a little older and cared for. ""

    But the Laurenzos' new location on Navigation presents a bit of a conundrum for Houston foodies. In recent years, the Original Ninfa's has been lovingly re-imagined by chef Alex Padillo and cocktail wunderkind Bobby Heugel. And while it's wonderful for Mama's family to be back in the neighborhood, they have some serious competition next door.

    "We didn't want it to feel like it was brand new," he explains to CultureMap on a tour of the restaurant. "We've tried to hire as many local artisans as possible, which helps things feel a little older and cared for.

    "The paneling around the base of the bar is totally hand-carved . . . I actually helped make all the chairs in the dining room with our crew."

    A large patio area sits along Navigation, awaiting sets of handmade cypress tables and chairs. Next to the patio, an open L-shaped sun room hugs the main interior dining room. In milder weather, the sun room windows will be opened for an additional patio area. The large room also doubles as a banquet space.

    The restaurant's real magic will happen behind the scenes in a kitchen and work area that Domenic Laurenzo — with longtime friend and builder Andy Picos— designed from years of in-house experience at other El Tiempos. There's a carefully-planned tortilla area, a state-of-the-art dishwashing room and a cooking area created to be as efficient as possible.

    Also cool is a freezer dedicated to that staple of Tex-Mex cuisine, the almighty margarita. The drink mix is made on-site from natural ingredients and then stored in the freezer inside special containers that keep the concoction constantly moving. A separate cooling compressor on the roof keeps the liquid ice cold before it's siphoned to margarita machines at the bar . . . Technological efficiency at its best.

    El Tiempo opens its fifth official location . . . just steps from the Original Ninfa's on Navigation.

    El Tiempo, Navigation
    Photo by Tyler Rudick
    El Tiempo opens its fifth official location . . . just steps from the Original Ninfa's on Navigation.
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    TxMo Best New Restaurants

    4 Houston spots make Texas Monthly's best new restaurants of 2026 list

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 2, 2026 | 9:00 am
    Agnes and Sherman food spread
    Photo by Vivian Leba
    Agnes and Sherman is Texas Monthly's Restaurant of the Year.

    Texas Monthly has revealed its 10 best new restaurants for 2026. Published Monday, March 2, the list is open to restaurants that opened between December 1, 2024 and October 31, 2025.

    Notably, it’s the first edition of the list written by Paula Forbes, who succeeded veteran writer Pat Sharpe last year. She writes that that 2025 was “a lackluster one for Texas restaurants. . . Restaurant experiences that feel truly worth it, that have the power to wow, are hard to come by. But they’re out there,” she continues.

    Forbes found those “worth it” experiences at restaurants in Houston, Austin, Dallas, San Antonio, and Paris, a small town in far northeast Texas near the Oklahoma border. Once again, Houston led the way with four spots. They are:

    • Agnes and Sherman, an Asian American diner in the Heights
    • Zaranda, a California-inspired Mexican restaurant in downtown
    • Di An Pho, a Vietnamese restaurant in Chinatown
    • Latuli, chef Bryan Caswell’s eclectic neighborhood restaurant in Memorial

    Forbes hails Agnes and Sherman as her Restaurant of the Year, writing that it deserves a promotion to four-star status after the three-star review she wrote in October. She praises a number of chef Nick Wong’s dishes, including a French dip sandwich, shrimp cocktail, and crab rangoon. “Wong respects the cuisines he riffs on but is not afraid to contort them. The combinations are irresistible,” she writes.

    Zaranda, James Beard Award winner Hugo Ortega’s ode to both the state of California and Baja California, earned its spot for its eponymous dish of seafood cooked in a wire basket, among other items. Forbes hails Di An Pho’s 70-year old chef Hung Van Tran for opening a restaurant that only serves his definitive versions of both beef and chicken pho. She writes that Latuli serves some of Caswell’s signature dishes from across his career, including “a crab-packed crab cake (served with spicy sorghum mustard), a pecan-smoked pork chop, and Shiner-steamed mussels.”

    Dallas restaurants take three spots on the list. At Rainbowcat, James Beard finalist Misti Norris is riffing on comfort fare such as chicken tenders, a McMuffin made with porchetta and braised greens, and a dessert inspired by Cinnamon Toast Crunch. Michelin-starred Mamani earns its spot for expertly-crafted French and Italian fare and a lengthy wine list. Sushi Kozy, led by Uchi Dallas alum Paul Ko, restored Forbes’ faith in omakase dining.

    Austin’s sole representative is Fish Shop, which serves West Coast-inspired seafood such as a Dungeness crab cocktail and halibut crudo alongside Gulf Coast-style fare such as well-sourced oysters.

    San Antonio’s Petit Coquin is Forbes’ “favorite” of the three French restaurants on the list thank to its “streamlined prix fixe menu and laissez-faire atmosphere,” she writes. Diners are encouraged to try dishes such as country pâté, steak au poivre, and rice pudding.

    BonFire, a French restaurant in Paris, TX, also has Houston ties. Chef Patten Sommers spent the early part of his career in the Bayou City, working at restaurants such as Triniti, Ciao Bello, and Brenner’s on the Bayou.

    The full list, in the order it's presented in the article, is as follows:

    1. Agnes and Sherman, an Asian American diner in Houston
    2. BonFire, a French restaurant in Paris
    3. Zaranda, a Mexican restaurant in Houston
    4. Fish Shop, a seafood restaurant in Austin
    5. Rainbowcat, a comfort food restaurant in Dallas
    6. Mamani, a French and Italian fine dining restaurant in Dallas
    7. Di An Pho, a Vietnamese restaurant in Houston
    8. Petit Coquin, a French restaurant in San Antonio
    9. Latuli, a modern American restaurant in Houston
    10. Sushi Kozy, a Japanese restaurant in Dallas

    Agnes and Sherman food spread
    Photo by Vivian Leba

    Agnes and Sherman is Texas Monthly's Restaurant of the Year.

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