NEW YORK — While many designers at New York Fashion Week showed relaxed, toned-down looks for next spring, Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig were among a group who would have none of that.
The duo's fairy tale collection, shown at the ornate St. Regis Hotel before a celebrity crowd that included producer Harvey Weinstein (Chapman's husband), Bette Midler and daughter Sophie von Haselberg, Christina Hendricks, Jennifer Hudson and Julianne Hough, included a number of entrance-making gowns with voluminous tiered skirts and long trains in dip-dyed tulle pastel shades.
If you're going to walk into a room, make sure everyone notices.
The duo's theme — “a botanical menagerie of caged birds and cascading florals placed under a captivating midnight sky ” — appears at first in sheer lace-beaded corseted gowns lined in black resembling the outlines of a bird cage but more suited for the boudoir.
Other gowns more suitable to charity balls and red-carpet affairs are adorned with feathers, jeweled crystal birds, laser cut mirrored fragments and gilded threadwork in keeping with the enchanted, ethereal theme of the collection.
Column gowns with strategically placed hand-cut 3-D petals sculpt the body while strapless ball gowns with billowing skirts, each with a train so long that the models had to maneuver around each other during the final runway bow, are the real statement makers. (The collection is available at Elizabeth Anthony.)
A number of short cocktail dresses and "high-low" gowns, with the front hem higher than the back, showcased the new Marchesa footwear collection that's just as glittery as the gowns. The Italian-made shoes, in laser-cut suede and detailed with glittery beading, will arrive in stores in January.
Alas, there's no glass slipper — yet.