Fans of ceviche with pulpo — that's octopus, for the uninitiated — will be in heaven with the Hugo's version. Ceviche fans ready for a a full onslaught of raw goodness should order Hugo's popular Vuelve a la Vida with oysters, octopus, crab, shrimp and red snapper. Believe us when we say we just can't get enough.

Granted, we're usually eating it after a plethora of margaritas, but the ceviche at the lively Escalante's in Highland Village, with it's mix of scallops, fish, shrimp and mango, is surprisingly fresh and delicious.

When it comes to traditional South American ceviche, Samba Grille goes toe to toe with Latin Bites for tart authenticity. With chunky vegetables, mixed shrimp and fish and corn nuts scattered across the plate next to a shot of leche de tigre, it may not be pretty, but it's certainly tasty.

Cyclone Anaya's has been given a lighter, fresher makeover under new culinary director Jason Gould. And the centerpiece of the new menu should be the flavorful seafood ceviche — it's eclipsed only by the plantain chips it's served with.

As befits a Houston Tex-Mex original, Ninfa's on Navigation boasts a true Mexican ceviche with halibut and grilled shrimp in a citrus sauce with tomato, jalepeño and avocado. Delicioso!

If more is more (and in Texas, isn't it always?) then the tasty ceviche appetizer at Southwest Houston landmark Pico's Mex-Mex, with it's Gulf shrimp and fresh seafood, is the mostest: served up large enough to feed  two or more.