What's Eric Eating Episode 287

Meet the good citizen behind Montrose's Aussie-styled cafe and coffee shop, plus hottest restaurant news

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Andrew Geisel joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Citizens, the Australian-style cafe that recently opened its first Houston location in Montrose. The new restaurant joins Citizens' three existing locations in New York City.

The conversation begins with Geisel explaining his decision to move from Australia to New York. Ultimately, he partnered with fellow Aussie Justin Giuffrida to open the first Citizens in New York's Chelsea neighborhood. Geisel explains the differences between an Australian cafe and a traditional American coffee shop, shares how Citizens survived the pandemic, and explains why the company chose Houston for its expansion.

Sandler notes that Citizens has opened near a number of breakfast and all-day concepts, including Blacksmith, Snooze, and Picnik. He asks Geisel how he sees Citizens standing out.

It's a really important question to answer. In essence, we're comfortable for a few reasons. Going back to Australia, there's really great cafes on every corner. The idea of saturation is something we're used to. We've operated in New York. There's tremendous offerings near our New York stores.

Good competition makes you be a better business. Strong competition raises the bar. Rather than call it competition, it's inspiring. I think when you have a high concentration of really wonderful bars and restaurants in an area, it really shines a spotlight on the area. It's something you want to be part of. The important thing becomes, how can we very clearly define who we are and what our voice is? How is it different from the other players in the area?

The idea is, why would you want to come to Citizens right now? What can we do for that's unique to us that you're not going to get at those other businesses? The breakfast with really high quality table service, genuine Aussie hospitality, and a menu offering that is diverse in both coffee and food. A menu that gives you everything from fresher, lighter, healthier bites to more hearty pieces. I find that to be something I'm very proud to represent.

Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: Street to Kitchen chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter winning the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Texas; Bun B and his business partners opening a brick and mortar location of Trill Burgers; and Cocody, a new restaurant from Le Mistral veterans David Denis and Sylvain Denis that's coming to River Oaks this summer.

In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson discuss their recent meals at two newly opened restaurants. First, they rave about Albi, a fine dining Mediterranean restaurant in River Oaks. Then, they consider The Chelsea, the stylish bistro in the Montrose Collective mixed-use development.

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Courtesy of Citizens

Citizens of Montrose opened last week.

Montrose Podcast coffee openings podcasts news-you-can-eat

Bernadine's Revived?

Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde

Photo by Emily Jaschke

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Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

“I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

“I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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