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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 345 and 346

    Goodnight’s dynamic chef duo dish on their posh new restaurant, plus our trip to 1891 American Eatery & Bar

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 25, 2024 | 6:25 pm

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chefs Felipe Riccio and Austin Waiter join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss the latest news from Goodnight Hospitality. Riccio, a partner in the overall group, and Waiter, chef-partner for The Marigold Club, have a lot of news to share.



    The conversation begins with Waiter discussing The Marigold Club, a Continental restaurant that will open later this spring in the former Goodnight Charlie’s space. He shares a few of the reasons why he left Tony’s two years ago to join the project and discusses his time staging at restaurants in London as part of the preparations to open it. Waiter shares a few details about the menu, including that it will feature an extensive raw seafood program and offer afternoon tea service.

    Sandler asks Riccio how Marigold Club fits in with its sister concepts March and Rosie Cannonball in the Goodnight portfolio.

    “Rosie leans so heavily Italian. We play around with French flavors here and there. With Marigold, getting to lean in to that classic technique, through the eyes of London . . . into the rest of Europe, playing off those classic flavors from French cooking will be a lot of fun.”

    Waiter adds that one of the lessons he’s brought from Tony’s is the importance of finding a balance between his perspective as a chef and serving food that customers want to order.

    “I think that the difficult part is staying true to what Felipe and I and the business partners love about food and what we’re focusing on and still making sure the guest comes first,” he says. “I’m not the one sitting there eating dinner every night. I think our guests need to take priority.”

    From there, the discussion turns to March. The Mediterranean-inspired fine dining restaurant will roll out its new tasting menus devoted to Països Catalans — a region where people speak Catalan that includes parts of Spain, Italy, France, and islands such as Ibiza and Mallorca — on January 30.

    “What is the through line, what are the differences between these people that share a common language? What’s their food style? What are the ingredients that are important? What are their rituals? All of those things are part of the research,” Riccio explains.

    The menu will include freshwater seafood and ingredients sourced from the Pyrenees Mountains. Beverage options will feature an homage to sangria as well as wines sourced from the Penedès, a region south of Barcelona.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Common Bond bringing a new bistro location to Tanglewood, Layne’s Chicken Fingers opening inside the loop, and Hando opening in Spring Branch.



    In the restaurant of the week segment, they visit 1891 American Eatery & Bar. Created by the culinary team behind Common Bond, the restaurant combines a comfort food menu with quality cocktails and a casual, sports bar atmosphere.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    March Catalan menu
      

    Courtesy of Goodnight Hospitality

    Fideua from March's new menu.

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    Pioneering Mexican chef and chic speakeasy popping up at Houston hotel

    Brianna Griff
    May 23, 2025 | 10:00 am
    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston
    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

    Houston diners won’t need a passport to explore Mexico’s culinary capital next month. On June 16 and 17, Four Seasons Hotel Houston will host From Oaxaca, With Love, a five-course experience that teams celebrated chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca with Oaxaca City cocktail bar Sabina Sabe and agave-spirits producer The Lost Explorer.

    The evening begins with Sabina Sabe bartender Mike Prado greeting diners with a cocktail in Bandista, the hotel’s speakeasy bar and lounge. The libations promise to be divine, with Sabine Sabe currently ranked No. 54 Best Bar in North America, and Bandista sitting at No. 59.

    From there, the party moves into a dining room filled with contemporary works supplied by Oaxaca Serrano Contemporary Art Gallery and underscored by live music.

    Ruiz, whose flagship Casa Oaxaca earned a spot in Mexico’s inaugural Michelin Guide, built his reputation by elevating the dishes he learned as a child cooking alongside his mother on the family farm.

    The chef stays close to his roots with recipes crafted using native ingredients such as chiles, corn, insects, and seeds purchased directly from local producers. Ruiz has long been considered an ambassador of the southern Mexican state — his enfrijoladas caused Noma’s famed Chef Rene Redzepi a moment of rapture.

    For his Houston appearance, diners can expect a true taste of Oaxaca: think a mini tostada topped with heirloom chapulines, chicatanas, and gusanos de maguey (grasshoppers, flying ants, and agave worms); red snapper cured in a bright tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth; and a slow-braised short rib finished in a fruit-laced mole.

    Prado will pair each course with cocktails such as the Pimiento Margarita, combining The Lost Explorer Tobalá mezcal with vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, and lime.

    “It is our great pleasure to welcome chef Alejandro Ruiz and Sabina Sabe to Houston, Texas,” Tom Segesta, Four Seasons Hotel Houston’s general manager, said in a statement. "These dinners, featuring these awarded ambassadors of Oaxacan food and drink, are sure to be enjoyed by our local community and guests from around the world.”

    The pop-up continues the hotel’s ongoing dinner-series format, which has previously spotlighted restaurants ranging from Emeril’s in New Orleans to Employees Only in New York and an Italian-American steakhouse from James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd.

    From Oaxaca, With Love begins at 7 pm on Monday, June 16, and Tuesday, June 17. Seating is limited, with tickets priced at $250 per person plus tax and gratuity. Each reservation will receive a signed English-language copy of Ruiz’s cookbook The Food of Oaxaca: Recipes and Stories from Mexico's Culinary Capital. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Those who wish to linger can book the hotel’s Advance Purchase offer, which discounts room rates by up to 25 percent when reserved three or more days ahead.

    The menu features:

    Starter Trio

    • Mini tostada with heirloom insects
    • Zucchini blossom stuffed with ricotta and roasted banana purée
    • Hoja santa “taco” with quesillo, beans, and wild mushrooms

    Green Aguachile

    • Red snapper cured in tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth, Persian cucumber, red onion, cilantro, ginger-toasted peanuts
    • Cocktail: Pequeño Gigante – Madre Cuishe mezcal, hoja santa, ginger, lime, Oaxacan spices

    Tortilla Soup

    • Tomato-pasilla mixe broth, crispy tortillas, fresh cheese, cream, pork cracklings, mint-celery garnish
    • Cocktail: Pimiento Margarita – Tobalá mezcal, Mistela vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, lime

    Braised Short Rib

    • Anchamanteles mole, seasonal fruit relish, banana purée, crispy plantain
    • Cocktail: Agave Xerez – The Lost Explorer tequila, Palomino sherry, green apple, pear

    Textures of Oaxacan

    • Chocolate Mousse, sponge cake, ice cream, tuile, passion-fruit jelly, cacao nibs
    • Neat pour of Tobalá mezcal
    • Traditional water-based hot chocolate infused with cacao flower

    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
      

    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston

    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

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