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    meet the tastemakers

    Houston's 10 best bartenders offer top-shelf service & delicious drinks

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 19, 2024 | 6:36 pm

    More than any other category, it’s easy to feel a little sentimental about the individuals nominated for Bartender of the Year in the 2024 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

    After all, diners have far more personal interaction with their bartenders than they do chefs or cooks, who are mostly too busy working in the kitchen to have a conversation with their customers. Bartenders, on the other hand, are always there. Since their customers are frequently under the influence of a couple of cocktails, who knows what sort of secrets this year’s nominees have been privy to.

    Not that they’d ever tell anyone what they’ve heard, of course.

    Our judges’ panel of local restaurant industry experts and former Tastemaker Award winners has selected them for both their professionalism and their expertise in creating and serving cocktails. After all, being friendly isn’t quite as helpful if their drinks don’t taste good, too.

    Who will win? Find out March 27 at the Tastemaker Awards party. We’ll dine on bites from this year’s nominated restaurants and sip cocktails from our sponsors before revealing the winners in our short and sweet ceremony.

    Buy your tickets now. VIP passes are already sold out and fewer than 100 General Admission tickets remain.

    Here are the nominees for Bartender of the Year:

    Brandon Choate, Anvil
    The seven-year Anvil veteran says he appreciates the opportunity to keep learning about spirits. While you’re welcome to quiz about the perfect drink to order — Choate knows the questions to ask to help identify what someone will enjoy — that’s not his primary focus. “At the end of the day, I’d rather talk to people about what’s going on in their life, not why we chose to use this vermouth instead of another one,” he writes in an email.

    When he’s not at work, he’s usually camping or fishing with other bartenders, including 2021 Bartender of the Year winner Alphonso Quiñones of Tiny Champions. “Ask Alphonso about the flies and lures he’s been making for us and be prepared to lose 20 minutes,” he adds.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Brandon Choate (@bschoate)

    Brooke Lightfoot, Two Headed Dog
    As a manager at Two Headed Dog, Lightfoot helps coordinate the bars various fundraisers, including events for Trans Legal Aid and women’s health charity I’ll Have What She’s Having. “My ideal bar is one that is involved and gives back to the community through charity events,” she writes. “It gives my work purpose beyond simply providing great drinks and a welcoming atmosphere.”

    Of course, she takes providing great drinks seriously, too. A Brooke Lightfoot cocktail is likely to incorporate cordials, shrubs, or fat washes that enhance a drink’s flavor. “I’m always pushing myself to learn new techniques, like spherification and foams, to make truly unique beverages. Put simply: I love what I do and sharing it with others,” she concludes.

    Fabio Pontes, Bludorn
    Pontes, who grew up in Brazil prior to moving to Houston, has worked at a wide range of establishments across the city. He says Bludorn’s focus on service has made the Montrose restaurant his home. “I’ve worked in a lot of places where that was never one of the main focus of what we did. At Bludorn everything comes back to the service and the guest in the end.”

    While Bludorn has an extensive spirits selection, Pontes cites a current interest in GlenAllachie scotch due to the different woods used to finish each expression. Diners will also notice Brazilian elements in his cocktails.

    Josh Alden, Reserve 101
    After a year of working at Refuge, Alden returned to Reserve 101 to help the bar reopen after an extensive series of interior renovations. “Coming back to Reserve is like coming back home after taking a gap year and seeing the world of hospitality from a different view,” he writes. “I'm excited to share and learn and watch this treasured concept reach new heights.” No matter where he works, Alden’s outgoing personality has made him a favorite with both his peers and regulars.

    Julia Miles, Squable/Refuge
    Miles is a relative newcomer to the hospitality industry, having only been involved since 2020. She credits her ability to work quickly to the time she spent at the Pearland location of Gringo’s Mexican Kitchen. “I’ll never forget being absolutely weeded, like, buried on Friday happy hour service well. That taught me no matter how bad the shift gets, it will end soon and tomorrow is a chance to be better,” she writes.

    Although Miles is nominated for her work at Squable, she recently moved to one of its sister concepts in Montrose cocktail bar Refuge. She plans to continue learning more about agave spirits at her new post.

    Kristen Nepomuceno, Formerly of Refuge
    Two years ago, Bobby Heugel recruited Nepomuceno to move from Squable to Refuge, where she helped establish the bar’s reputation for enthusiastic service and a lively atmosphere. Although she recently departed the bar to focus on consulting for some upcoming projects, she has fond memories of her time at Refuge.

    “With Refuge, Bobby really empowered me to curate a space that felt like home for me, a small, sexy cocktail closet, full of friends, drinking out of ridiculously beautiful martini glasses. Bougie but without pretension. That’s always been my motto,” she writes in an email.

    Patrick Dougherty, ElRo Pizza & Crudo
    The bartender credits his outgoing personality to growing up in Washington State where, he writes, “hitchhiking [was] a natural form of travel.” That restless personality has found a home with chef Terrence Gallivan, considering Dougherty worked alongside the chef at The Pass & Provisions before signing on for ElRo. Diners should expert Dougherty to greet them as they walk in, which seems fitting for an ambitious, chef-driven pizzeria.

    Still, we had to ask, why are all the cocktails named after Bruce Springsteen songs?

    “I may not know anything about Bruce Springsteen (listen he just skipped my generation in the pnw) but if the hoss loves the boss I say ‘YES CHEF,’” he explains. Yes, the drink recipes get developed before the bartender scans Springsteen’s discography looking for a label. “An apt song title finds the drink in its completion as its name, and I just cross my fingers it's not a cover.”

    Peter Jahnke, Catbirds
    If Peter Jahnke were a baseball player, he’d be a five tool player. Not that the bartending world has exact equivalents for “hits for power” and “fields well,” but his diverse skillset makes him equally comfortable working at upscale concepts like Refuge and Tongue-cut Sparrow and overseeing the rebirth of legendary Montrose neighborhood bar Catbirds. More recently, Jahnke has been applying the cooking chops he displayed working at restaurants such as Theodore Rex and Squable to Catbirds’ recently-introduced steak night.

    “From cooking days and stuff, I love working high end, but I really like to be at a low end or a neighborhood spot. That’s where I’m most comfortable,” Jahnke said when Catbirds reopened in November. “Being able to apply all of that to a place I care about, those are the things that I’m excited about — making regulars and saying yes to everybody and seeing big groups come in.”

    Rebecca Burkhart, Johnny's Gold Brick
    Seven years is a long time to spend at any bar, but Burkhart explains that she appreciates all the ways the bar lets her be creative and try new things. “Myself and the staff are able to test boundaries whether it is an idea for a cocktail, a systematic change, or maybe a concept for an event we would like to host,” she writes.

    Asked about a drink category that currently has her interest, Burkhart mentions the growth of non-alcoholic cocktails at bars and restaurants across Houston. While Johnny’s has a couple, she also recommends the Ricotta Dreamsicle at Tiny Champions.

    Zach Hornberger, Nancy's Hustle
    Find this mustache-sporting bartender — “yes, it’s real,” he quips — at the East End establishment that recently earned a semifinalist nomination for Outstanding Restaurant in this year’s James Beard Awards. Nancy’s has always been known for its eclectic wine list, but Hornberger notes cocktails have their place, too.

    “I feel like the wine and cocktail program at Nancy's has always been two hands of the same beast,” he writes. “The cocktail program is built around amari, Sherry, fortified wines, and even a little sake. The role of the beverage program as a whole is to absolutely trick people into drinking things they didn't know they liked.”


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Nancy's Hustle (@nancyshustle)


    ----

    The 2024 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards takes place 6-10 pm Wednesday, March 27 at Silver Street Studios (2000 Edwards St.).

    The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is brought to you by Stella Artois, Rías Baixas Albariño, Topo Chico Sparkling Mineral Water, 8th Wonder Cannabis, Tito's Vodka, and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Rebecca Burkhart Johnny's Gold Brick
      

    Photo by Benjy Mason

    Rebecca Burkhart, Johnny's Gold Brick.

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    long live the king

    Houstonians will get the royal treatment at this lively new steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    May 14, 2025 | 11:20 am
    King Steak restaurant food spread
    Photo by Lauren Holub
    King Steak serves its guacamole with bacon.

    Houston’s newest steakhouse aims to lure diners with a simple, back-to-basics approach. Opening Wednesday, May 21, King Steak is the latest project from restaurateur Johnny Vassallo and chef Eric Aldis, two of the people behind Mo's...A Place for Steaks, a see-and-be-seen steakhouse that thrived on Post Oak until it closed in 2016.

    Working together, Vassallo as owner and Aldis as operating partner, the duo intends for King Steak to recapture Mo’s lively atmosphere while serving a menu in line with current trends, such as frying items in beef tallow rather than seed oils. For Aldis, who’s done everything from serving as a senior manager who helped grow Federal Grill to operating a short-lived barbecue joint in Midtown, the opportunity to focus on a single location is a welcome change of pace.

    “I’ve been overseeing a bunch of pubs and restaurants,” Aldis tells CultureMap. “Now, I’ll be at King’s six days a week. I want to be more centralized and do one spot for the next 20 years.”

    For a restaurant with “steak” in its name, King Steak keeps things simple. It serves a 16-ounce strip, a 20-ounce ribeye, and a filet in three sizes ranging from four to 12 ounces. They’re joined by steakhouse staples such as Caesar salad, shrimp cocktail, and four different potato sides — loaded baked potato, jalapeño hashbrowns, mashed potatoes, and beef tallow fries.

    Where the restaurant sets itself apart is its selection of non-steak entrees. Options include a short rib with mashed potatoes, chicken Parmesan, ahi tuna with mushrooms and Brussels sprouts, and a French dip sandwich. One item Aldis hopes diners will embrace is the restaurant’s vegetable charcuterie, a shareable appetizer platter made with grilled and roasted vegetables paired with an array of dipping sauces.

    “Having artichoke carpaccio, beet pastrami, all different types of vegetables presented in the style of charcuterie. It’s fun and a little healthy, too,” Aldis says. “Don’t get wrong. I still love a great charcuterie board with meats and cheeses, but it’s something different that goes well with a glass of wine and chilling on a patio.”

    Speaking of the patio, Vassallo and Aldis have invested in major upgrades to location’s outdoor seating, which now has year-round utility courtesy of glass walls and climate control. Formerly Osteria Mazzantini and Cafe Ginger, the dining room has been transformed with a mural and artwork that evokes the American West.

    Aldis is confident that the patio, and the restaurant’s private dining room that can be divided into three spaces, will help lure customers — as will Aldis’ outgoing personality.

    “Don’t shy away from a caviar bump when I’m walking around with a kilo to get the party started,” he says with a laugh.

    Yes, the Galleria area is thick with steakhouses at all price points, but many are corporate-owned or part of larger chains. Aldis sees an opportunity for a locally-owned, single location to distinguish itself with a more personal approach.

    “We’re not chef driven. We’re guest driven. That’s where we want to be,” he says. Later, he adds, “Whatever you want, we’ll go above and beyond to make it happen. Give me a couple days, I’ll get it in. We’ll make it beautiful for you.”

    King Steak is located at 2200 Post Oak Blvd. It will be open for dinner Monday through Saturday beginning at 4 pm. Weekday lunch service is expected to follow in mid-June.



    King Steak restaurant food spread
      

    Photo by Lauren Holub

    King Steak serves its guacamole with bacon.

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