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    wine guy wednesday

    Chris Shepherd breaks bread with Houston's 7 master sommeliers

    Chris Shepherd
    Apr 23, 2025 | 2:06 pm
    Chris Shepherd master sommelier dinner

    Clockwine from front: June Rodil, Julie Dalton, Keith Goldston, Jack Mason, Steven McDonald, Chris Shepherd, Guy Stout, and Brandon Kerne.

    Courtesy of Chris Shepherd

    This week something amazing happened that I didn’t see coming. Well, not exactly, I should say.

    Last year at Southern Smoke’s Decanted fundraiser, we auctioned off a night at our house where I would make snacks and all the master sommeliers in Houston would bring a bottle that meant something special to them. Did I ever think all seven of Houston’s master sommeliers would be able to find one night that they would all be available? Not really, because I know how busy they all are.

    Then the day came, and the stars aligned perfectly — it happened! Two of them may have flown in that day — including one who landed an hour before the event after an 9-hour flight home — but it happened, and it was magical. Let me drop some tidbits of information about how special this was.

    According to Wikipedia, here is what it takes to become a Master Sommelier.

    Those who wish to take the Master Sommelier exam must have passed the Advanced exam, be invited or recommended to sit the exam, and have typically worked in the industry for at least 10 years. The exam covers all aspects of the world and industry of wine, beer, spirits, cocktails, and hospitality from a business, service and philosophical approach. The three part, oral exam consists of theory (must be passed before taking the other two parts), blind tasting six wines before a panel, and service; the three sections do not need be attempted at once.

    The typical pass rate at the Master Sommelier exam is around 3–8 percent of applicants; in some instances as few as 1 in 70 have succeeded . . . Only 14 people have ever passed the Master level on the first try.

    Currently there are 279 Master Sommeliers in the world, and seven work and live right here in Houston. Why is that? You are the reason! Houstonians drink wine, quite a bit of it actually. From working in distribution, running restaurant programs, education and sales to owning a winery, there is a lot for an MS to do here.

    I have cooked at a lot of dinners with amazing chefs each doing a course, and those events are magical. This event was similar in thought process, since each one of these amazing people brought something to the party that meant something to them.

    There are very few times that you get seven people at the top of their chosen careers that open up their thoughts, hearts, and cellars to find one bottle that means something emotional to them. You don’t get seven of the greatest doctors in the world to look at you all at the same time when you have a cold. Seven of the greatest NBA players in the world to play Horse with you in the backyard, or seven of the greatest singers to sing you a lullaby at night.

    But that greatness happened, and I saw it, tasted it, and got to cook for it. They came together not just for a fun night. They all believe in the work that the Southern Smoke Foundation is doing to help change the food and beverage industry. I want to thank the lovely couple that purchased this lot for their belief in the organization because, without them, this would not have happened.

    You wanna know what wines these sommeliers brought to dinner? My wife Lindsey recorded every one of them describing what they brought, and then she transcribed it because she is amazing and quite frankly, I’m just not that talented.

    Let’s be honest. I write these article in the Notes App on my phone because I don’t own or know how to use a computer. Please enjoy, and, while you’re reading, understand the commitment and the knowledge that these folks have. Let’s cheer on those that are on the path to achieve this goal as well.

    Let your next sommelier guide you and see what your night turns into. I bet it’s magical.

    Guy Stout: Stout Cabernet 2014 and Kyla

    “It’s my wine. 2014 was a great vintage. We only did a few magnums, and I wanted to share with our friends. I also brought Kyla, which is the swan song from Stout Vineyards in Blanco, Texas. This was the last vintage from my vineyard of 20 years. We made a pet-nat. It’s Syrah and Tempranillo. It means a lot to me — this is the last wine that we made from our vineyard before we invested in Napa and started the Stout Napa project.”

    Julie Dalton: Donnhoff Dellchen 2016 GG

    “Riesling is my reason, and I thought it would be fun to show why it should be everyone’s reason. People don’t realize how delicious dry Riesling is, and I thought it would be a cool opportunity — looking at the menu with the pork and the duck and the cheeses — all of these salty, rich things want an explosion of acidity and brightness. That’s what dry Riesling does. Dry Riesling is the perfect way to incorporate an aria into any symphony of food.”

    Keith Goldston: 2013 Olivier Bernstein Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France

    “What I brought tonight was a little red Burgundy because when in doubt, you might as well go for the heartbreaker grape, Pinot Noir. Olivier Bernstein is this rockstar in Burgundy who doesn’t make many wines, came in from the outside, and you just don’t see them. We happened to have a 2013 magnum hanging out, and it seemed like the perfect night for it.”

    Brandon Kerne: St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard Haute Densite Hubert Lamy 2021, 1989 Chateau Pape Clement, 2022 Joannes Violot-Guillemard Aux Clous, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, France

    “I brought St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard because everybody loves them some reductive blended chardonnay right now. We needed enough to go around, so always bring a magnum! And then the 89 Pape Clement is old Bordeaux we source directly from the estate, top vintage, top estate, and almost 40 years old now. This Violot-Guilleard is something we just got in, something that I found in Burgundy that I spent two years trying to bring in. It just landed, so I wanted to share with my friends.”

    Steven McDonald: 2012 Ca' Brusa Bricco San Pietro Vigna d'Vai

    “I brought the Ca’ Brusa Barolo Riserva. Why? Because I’m pretty much on brand with my love of the Nebbiolo grape. This is a great example of one of the top riservas of the Monforte region of Barolo. It’s drinking great, and everything is better in a magnum.”

    Jack Mason: Guilio Ferrari 2002

    “This is Guilio Ferrari, the top wine of Ferrari in Trentodoc in Trentino, Italy. This is 100 percent Chardonnay aged over 10 years on the lees. This was ’02 but disgorged in ’15 in magnum. I love Trentodoc, because it’s got the alpine freshness and absolutely delicious.”

    June Rodil: 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets and Champagne Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion’ 2013

    “I brought two bottles because everyone else brought magnums, and I wanted to be equal! First bottle is 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets. It’s not really about the producer — it’s more about the vintage for me. It’s ’07, and it’s been sitting in my cellar so I wanted to share it. Also, the first year I went to Burgundy was in 2010, and we were drinking ‘07s. And it was really special. Also because critics poopooed on this year, and they were totally wrong! This is fabulous and drinking really well! I wouldn’t hold it anymore — I would drink it now.

    Second, in honor of one of the greatest ladies in wine of all time, Martine was an importer. May she ever rest in peace. She just passed away. She imported this wine. When she was importing, it was the first time I ever had this wine. Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion.' 100 percent Chardonnay. Delicious. So good! 2013 Vintage. Drop the mic! One of the best tête de cuvée from an independent producer.”

    -----

    What wine would you bring to a dinner at Chris's house? Tell Chris via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

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    food news round up

    12 things to know in Houston food: Openings, closings, and meal deals

    Brianna McClane
    Sep 11, 2026 | 9:00 am
    Maximo san luis potosi tasting menu
    Photo by Carla Gomez
    Diners at Maximo can take a culinary tour of San Luis Potosí through the five course tasting menu inspired by Chef Adrian Torres’ home state.

    In this edition of CultureMap’s look at the latest Houston restaurant news, a successful hand roll restaurant continues to grow, a Chinese American restaurant quietly signs off, and a popular Houston chef shows off his Peruvian heritage. Plus, Houstonians can eat cold noodles for a good cause.

    Read on for all the food news Houstonians need to know.

    Openings and Closings

    Houston-based Duckstache Hospitality, the group behind restaurants such as Doko and Himari, is adding three new Houston locations of the hand-roll and sushi bar concept Handies Douzo. As CultureMap has previously reported, the restaurant will be the first dining establishment to open at Central Park Post Oak in Uptown and at 1107 Hutchins Street in EaDo as pat of the East Blocks project. In addition, the company announced plans for a West U. outpost at 3908 Bellaire Boulevard. All three are expected to open in late 2026 or early 2027.

    Maximo san luis potosi tasting menu

    Photo by Carla Gomez

    Diners at Maximo can take a culinary tour of San Luis Potosí through the five-course tasting menu.

    Comfort Foodies, the Latin-Caribbean and Southern soul food restaurant, has relocated from Cypress-Fairbanks to a larger space in Missouri City. The 3,000-square-foot restaurant seats more than 50 people and adds a full bar with specialty cocktails. Owners Elsa and Jeff Matthews launched Comfort Foodies in 2020 as a food truck. The restaurant also offers takeout, delivery, catering, and frozen empanadas. Comfort Foodies is located at 8731 Highway 6.

    Chinese American restaurant Qin Dynasty has quietly closed its location near West U. although the restaurant's website remains active, all signage has been removed from its location at 5115 Buffalo Speedway. Open since 2001, the neighborhood staple was known for dishes such as pork dumplings, chicken lettuce wraps, and spicy and tangy chicken.

    Upcoming Food Events

    Sunday, September 13

    Better Together: New Orleans Brunch at Camaraderie
    The Heights restaurant is paying tribute to New Orleans brunch culture with a $35 prix fixe menu featuring dishes inspired by iconic NOLA restaurants, including shrimp etouffee from The Herbert Hotel, beignets from Cafe du Monde, and grillades and grits from Arnaud’s. Brunch runs from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm.

    Monday, September 14

    Keylan Rutledge at The Pit Room Memorial
    Hopefully, the Texans first round draft pick will be celebrating a victory over the Buffalo Bills when he makes an appearance at the Memorial location of the popular barbecue joint. In between bites of ribs, Rutledge will pose for pictures and sign autographs for fans from 6-8 pm.

    September 18-October 4

    Karbachtoberfest at Karbach Brewing Co.
    Karbach Brewing Co. brings Oktoberfest to Houston for three weekends with stein-hoisting contests, wiener dog races, live music, German food, and its seasonal Karbachtoberfest Märzen lager. The event runs September 18-20, September 25-27, and October 2-4 at the brewery’s Biergarten, 2032 Karbach Street.

    Thursday, September 14

    Pepitas Pop-Up at Agnes and Sherman
    Craft Pita founder, chef Raffi Nasr, and his mother, Claudia Nasr, are popping up at the Michelin-recommended Asian American diner in the Heights to debut Pepitas, their new Peruvian-inspired pop-up series. For this edition, they're collaborating with Agnes and Sherman chef and co-owner Nick Wong on a menu of Chifa-inspired dishes, including fried wontons with sweet-and-sour sauce; Salchipapas Wong, fries topped with Peruvian sauces and Chinese sausage; Arroz Chaufa, Peruvian-Chinese fried rice with shrimp, chicken, and hot dog; and Lomo Saltado, wok-fried steak with garlic corn rice and fries. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Tuesdays in September

    September Cold Noodles Club
    Eight Row Flint's original location in the Heights is partnering with I’ll Have What She’s Having for a monthlong cold noodle fundraiser. Every Tuesday from 6 pm until sold out, a Houston chef will serve a favorite cold noodle dish, with all proceeds benefiting preventive healthcare services for hospitality workers through IHWSH. The lineup includes Christine Hà of The Blind Goat on September 15, Niki Vongthong (formerly of Hidden Omakase) on September 22, and Suu Khin of Burmalicious by Suu on September 29.

    New menus and experiences

    After being discontinued during the 2020 pandemic, Noon Mirch Kitchen + Bar has brought back its Indian lunch buffet. The Clear Lake restaurant serves its buffet daily from 11 am to 3 pm for $17 Monday through Thursday and $20 Friday through Sunday. An expanded Grand Buffet will be offered on holidays and special occasions for $25. To mark the return of the buffet, the first 100 buffet diners each day will receive a complimentary mimosa.

    Diners at West U. Mexican restaurant Maximo can take a culinary tour of San Luis Potosí through the five-course tasting menu inspired by chef Adrian Torres’ home state. Highlights include zacahuil, a banana leaf-cooked communal tamal that the James Beard Award winner has reimagined to feature a masa marbled with mole rojo and served with pressed short rib. The menu is $50, with optional wine or cocktail pairings for $35. A donation of $5 will be made for each tasting menu to Caritas in San Luis Potosi, a charity that provides food and clothing to those in need.

    51fifteen in the Galleria is launching a new Friday night experience for those who like to get an early start on the weekend. From 6-10 pm in the Tulip Room, a live DJ spins tunes from the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, while diners can order food and drinks from the bar menu in between hitting the dance floor.

    Warehouse 72 is celebrating its seventh anniversary with “7 Years, 7 Ways to Experience Warehouse 72,” a lineup of weekly dining experiences. Highlights include Taco & Tequila Tuesdays with three tacos and a margarita flight for $39, Wine Wednesdays with 30 percent off wines, Thursday steak specials, and a seven-course tasting menu for $85 on Fridays.

    Saturdays feature monthly cooking classes with chef Jaime Salazar, while Sundays offer a family-style dinner for four for $80. The restaurant has also added lunch, including poke and Peruvian chicken bowls, and customizable bento boxes. Patrons who complete five of the seven experiences will receive an invitation to an exclusive VIP anniversary celebration at the end of the year.

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