What's eric eating episode 359

Meet the 3rd generation leader of an 80-year old Houston Tex-Mex staple

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Molina’s Enterprises president Ricardo Molina joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Molina’s Cantina. Along with his brothers Raul III and Roberto, Ricardo Molina is a third generation owner of the Tex-Mex restaurant that traces its boots back to 1941.

Photo by Julie Soefer

Jose's Dip is a Molina's staple.

The conversation begins with Molina sharing how his grandparents Mary and Raul Molina opened the Old Monterrey Inn at 1919 West Gray. Ultimately, they adopted the name their customers used when referring to the restaurant, Molina’s, and grew to their current three locations on Westheimer, in Southside Place, and a Fulshear location that opened in 2020.

When a restaurant has that kind of legacy, certain dishes become staples. At Molina’s, they include the Enchiladas de Tejas (cheese enchiladas topped with chile con carne, cheese, and chopped onions) and the Jose’s Dip (queso with spicy taco meat). Sandler asks Molina about the challenge of keeping things traditional enough for regulars while also adding other dishes to stay contemporary.

“Tex-Mex restaurants didn’t have seafood to speak of. Soups and salads weren't a thing. Those are probably the most common things we’ve added,” he says

“One thing we battle is trying to roll out a new item. Your guests come in. If you worked at our place for three Friday nights, you’ll know 80 percent of our guests. You get to know them well,” Molina continues. “That’s the other side of it, trying to get somebody out of their comfort level and change lanes to try something different. That’s always a challenge for us.”

Listen to the full interview to hear Molina’s thoughts on how likely a fourth generation of the family is to continue the restaurant’s legacy. He also shares his perspective on further expansion.

Sandler always asks his guests if they have anything they want to discuss that he didn’t ask about. Molina ends the interview with a simple request for the audience.

“Support family business. We’ve got a great group of family businesses in Houston across the board. I’m proud to say I know most if not all of them. Some are really good friends. We’re the ones who support the Little League, we do a ton with the Rodeo, Girl Scouts, all that stuff,” he says.

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where there's smoke

Houston's only Michelin-recognized Tex-Mex restaurant now open in Bellaire

Photo by Duc Hoang

Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

It didn’t take Sambrook Hospitality Group long to turn Mandito’s into Candente. First announced in September, the restaurant’s second location officially opens today, Monday, December 22, at 5101 Bellaire Blvd.

Speaking on a November episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Sambrooks Hospitality founder Michael Sambrooks explained that, as a Bellaire resident, he saw an opportunity to open a restaurant close to home.

“It was a combination of, this location became available, and we liked the market. I think Bellaire is underserved. As far as Tex-Mex options, I think it’s limited,” he says. “We always struggle with where’s somewhere we can grab a bite that’s five minutes away as opposed to driving to another part of town. I think Candente is that solution. I think it’s going to be pretty well received.”

In terms of design, the restaurant replicates many of the same elements as the original Montrose location that opened in 2019, such as its copper-topped tables and yellow, orange, and maroon accents. Diners will note a mural by local artist Franky Cardona along one wall. Overall, the restaurant seats 125 in its dining room, 10 at its bar, and 24 on an outdoor patio.

While the location is new, the menu is the same. That means the same wood-fired fajitas, brisket enchiladas, nachos, birria tacos, and other fare that helped it achieve a “Recommended” designation in the Michelin Guide for Texas — the only Tex-Mex restaurant in Houston to make the prestigious guide. Pair them with margaritas (both shaken and frozen), as well as agave-based cocktails such as the paloma and ranch water, beers, and non-alcoholic options.

Sambrooks Hospitality also operates The Pit Room, the barbecue joint with locations in Montrose and Memorial City that earned a Bib Gourmand designation.

“It’s a privilege to open in Bellaire and get to know and serve a new clientele,” Sambrooks said in a statement. “We’re excited to introduce our style of authentic, handcrafted Tex-Mex that has made us a Houston dining staple.”

Candente will be open for lunch and dinner during the week beginning at 11 am. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday beginning at 10 am.

Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

Photo by Duc Hoang

Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

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