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    rumor no more

    Michelin guide finally confirms Texas edition — should anyone care?

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 16, 2024 | 9:29 am
    Le Jardinier interior

    Le Jardinier seems likely to earn a Michelin star.

    Photo by Claudia Casbarian

    For years, diners statewide have asked a simple question: “Why aren’t there any Michelin-starred restaurants in Texas?” The simple answer is that guide hasn’t been rating restaurants in Texas, but that’s about to change.

    On Tuesday, July 16, the Michelin Guide confirmed long-simmering rumors that it will publish a Texas edition later this year. Covering restaurants in Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, and San Antonio, Michelin’s famously anonymous inspectors are already in the field evaluating the restaurants in all five cities for potential inclusion in the guide.

    Restaurants may earn one of three designations:

    • Michelin stars, rated at one, two, or three for restaurants that offer exceptional experiences
    • Bib Gourmand, described as “restaurants that offer great quality food at good prices”
    • Green stars for “restaurants that are leaders in sustainable gastronomy”

    In addition, Michelin may also issue a lesser “recommended” designation to restaurants that don’t quite qualify for a star rating.

    Having a Michelin Guide for Texas will allow tourists to have some basis of comparison between the state's restaurants and their peers in other Michelin cities and countries. In America, the guide already rates restaurants in parts of California, New York City, Washington, D.C., Atlanta, and parts of Florida and Colorado.

    Bringing the guide to Texas comes at a cost, but we don’t know what it is. For example, Florida paid $150,000 to launch its guide, while California paid $600,000 and Colorado paid $135,000. Michelin declined to comment on what fee, if any, statewide tourism board Travel Texas and local tourism boards in the five cities paid to bring the guide here, but a representative for Houston First tells CultureMap the organization is paying $90,000 for each of the first three years (2024, 2025, and 2026).

    “Contract terms are confidential. Travel Texas is working with Michelin on marketing and promotional efforts only. The agreement enables collaborative work to promote the area’s culinary offerings,” Michelin’s Carly Grieff writes in an email. “The Michelin Guide Texas project came to life thanks to the quality of the state’s culinary scene. The whole credit of this exciting project is the talent of Texas’ restaurant teams who embody culinary innovation. Without them and their exceptional work, it would have been impossible for the Michelin Guide to have the ambition of proposing a first selection of Texas restaurants in 2024.”

    Do we need Michelin?
    As rumors of Michelin’s arrival swirled, a debate has been taking place about whether it will be welcomed. Robb Report explored the topic in a 2023 article.

    Aaron Bludorn, the chef-owner of three Houston-area restaurants who held one star as the executive of New York’s Cafe Boulud, told the magazine he wasn’t excited about it. “I grew tired of Michelin,” Bludorn told the magazine. “[There’s] freedom given without Michelin being here.”

    “I don’t really see an argument as to why they shouldn’t come,” Dallas chef Casey La Rue said in the article. “Currently, the only reason to travel to Texas, from an outsider’s perspective, would be for barbecue. No one looks at the state or any of the major cities for anything other than that … If we had Michelin stars, then we would be able to get more recognition and [be] more legitimized.”

    Others may wonder whether Michelin is relevant for a city with a diverse dining scene that caters to a wide range of price points. Will Michelin get Houston?

    Typically, the guide’s highest two and three-star ratings tend to go to very expensive tasting menu establishments. In Houston, that would only include Mediterranean-inspired restaurant March and omakase counters like Neo and Hidden Omakase.

    For example, will Tatemó, which has already received national recognition from Food & Wine and the James Beard Awards, earn at least one star for chef Emmanuel Chavez’s innovate, masa-based menu of Mexican cuisine? Or will its humble setting in a Spring Branch strip center and lack of an alcoholic beverage program relegate it to Bib Gourmand or Recommended status?

    Will the inspectors make their way along Hillcroft and Long Point and Bellaire to search out Bib-worthy eats at places like Himalaya, Aga’s, Tacos Doña Lena, and Crawfish and Noodles? Or will educated diners citywide be scratching their heads and complaining about all of the places the guide “snubbed?”

    Diners can also look to how the guide treats restaurants in other cities for some hint as to what’s to come. For example, Le Jardinier’s sister locations in Miami and New York each hold one star, so it seems likely it will earn one here, too. On the other hand, as neither the New York or Miami locations of Italian restaurant Carbone currently hold a star, it seems unlikely the Dallas location will receive one.

    The only thing that’s certain is that Michelin’s arrival will change dining in Texas. Restaurants may tweak their menus or service styles to cater to the guide’s tastes. Operators in other cities may be more likely to open a Texas outpost in hopes of earning a star. Others may reject the guide’s conventions entirely and continue to forge their own path.

    If nothing else, it gives us something to argue about, especially once the state’s first star recipients are revealed later this year.

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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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