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What's Eric Eating Episodes 418 and 419

Levi Goode dishes on his Memorial hot spot and Tex-Mex for River Oaks

CultureMap Staff
Oct 31, 2024 | 5:48 pm

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef and restaurateur Levi Goode joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Credence, his new restaurant in Memorial, as well as the overall state of Goode Company Restaurants.

Notably, Credence is not part of Goode Co. Rather, it’s the first manifestation of Levi Goode’s personal brand, which allows him to operate without the expectations associated with a Goode Co. restaurant.

“I wanted a platform with no boundaries on creativity. I wanted to do some new and different things from what the city we love has grown to know as the Goode Co. brand,” Goode says. “I didn’t want to create any confusion in the marketplace for where Goode Co stands but also to do some fun, creative stuff. It’s really in line with the way my dad approached business when he first started. My creative hunger and to do exciting things stems from that.”

The conversation continues with a deep dive into Credence. They discuss the decision to open in Memorial, how its different from a steakhouse, and how the neighborhood has responded to the restaurant. Tune in to hear Goode discuss how the menu will evolve in fall and winter as well as his thoughts on Sidebar, Credence’s companion speakeasy-style bar.

In a bit of breaking news, he also shares that Goode Co. Kitchen & Cantina, the company’s Tex-Mex restaurant, will open its fourth location in the former La Griglia space in the River Oaks Shopping Center. Goode is tight-lipped about details, but he does mention that it will include “a neat little surprise” for River Oaks residents.

“We’re excited to bring Kitchen & Cantina into close proximity to our locations on Kirby,” Goode says. “We’re on the other side of River Oaks. Personally, it’s very rewarding for me to make an around-the-city tour with Kitchen & Cantina then bring it back inside the loop to the neighborhood.”

In addition to Kitchen & Cantina, Goode provides updates on some of his other restaurants, including Fish Camp, a seafood restaurant in The Woodlands; Armadillo Palace, a live music venue and restaurant; and Taqueria, a fast casual taco and hamburger joint that CultureMap columnist Ken Hoffman touted for having the best fries in Houston.

In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Monica Danna discuss the news of the week. They begin with some thoughts on the Houston Chronicle’s new list of the city’s top 100 restaurants. They also share some memories of Cecil’s, the staple Montrose bar that’s closing in November.

In the restaurant of the week segment, Danna and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Mi Luna, the Houston tapas restaurant that recently reopened in Montrose. Listen to the episode to hear their thoughts on how its different from the original Rice Village location.

Levi Goode headshot
Photo by Jody Horton

Levi Goode is this week's guest.

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we gotta go

Beard-winning Houston chef shares first details of new Montrose restaurant

Eric Sandler
Jul 13, 2026 | 11:52 am
House of Louie
Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

Houston hospitality veterans Bobby Heugel and chef Justin Yu are sharing more details about House of Louie, their new neighborhood restaurant that’s opening this summer in the former Vibrant space at 1931 Fairview Ave. It’s the duo’s first new restaurant since opening Squable in 2019.

Almost a year after announcing their plans for the project, chef Yu, a James Beard Award winner and Food & Wine Best New Chef honoree, shares in press materials that the restaurant’s name and spirit takes inspiration from an establishment operated by his aunts, Betty Louie and Josephine Yeung, for over 30 years in the Los Angeles area.

“House of Louie was how I fell in love with restaurants. There was a magic there,” Yu said in a statement. “It was always a happy place for me, and for all its guests who came from all around the Los Angeles area to go to it. It was just one of those restaurants where it was exactly what you wanted, when you wanted it, but also a restaurant that gave you more than you expected.”

Yu describes the menu as having a “French-Italian soul” that will also incorporate “the smirk of Modern American cooking,” which allows the chef to sidestep criticisms of whether or not his food is a sufficiently authentic version of those two culinary traditions. As with Theodore Rex, his downtown restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide, dishes at House of Louie will be defined by well-sourced ingredients and delicate saucework.

Meals at the restaurant could begin with dishes such as salads or raw seafood items, including yellowtail alla scapece (cured in chardonnay vinegar) or spot shrimp marinated in Pernod with bergamot and fennel pollen. Pastas, which will be in-house, include a fried lasagna with ragu bianco and Comte cheese fondue. Entrees include roast duck and chicken brined with house-made giardiniera, the spicy topping typically associated with Italian beef sandwiches. Of course, vegetables will be well-represented throughout the menu.

Bobby Heugel, Yu’s partner in the Thorough Fare Co. hospitality group and the founder of bars such as Anvil and Refuge, is overseeing the bar’s cocktail program. Expect martinis galore and seasonal cocktails made with Gulf Coast ingredients. One example is the The Fair View, a riff on the classic Rome with a View made with local roselle hibiscus, Becherovka, dry sherry, and gen tian tea, that’s finished with sparkling wine and pineapple.

The duo aren’t ready to share interior photos, but they describe the renovations as a “simple remake” that enlisted support from local craftspeople including Garnish Design (Milton’s, Tiny Champions), ObjektFab, and Ford Design Finishes. “Just like when you cook a beautiful piece of fish or a carrot that was cared for as it was grown, you do just enough to something beautiful to make it yours,” Yu added.

Joining the project are general manager Tyler Jay Wang, whose resume includes acclaimed Boston establishments No 9 Park and Drink, and executive chef Kirk Thompson, who worked for various Underbelly Hospitality concepts and served as the executive chef at Leo’s River Oaks when it won Best New Restaurant in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

House of Louie will be open daily for dinner. Friday lunch and weekend brunch service will be added in the future.

House of Louie

Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

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