Houston's new fry king

Surprise! Ken Hoffman nominates Kirby taqueria for Houston's best fries

Ken recommends getting the fries at Goode Co. Taqueria.

Photo by Jody Horton

Years ago, Esquire magazine conducted a search for the “Best French fries in America.” The winner was Nathan’s Famous hot dog stand on the corner of Surf and Stillwell in Coney Island at 10 am Monday morning when they change the peanut oil.

Bull’s-eye! As they say, I’m familiar with the product. I grew up on Nathan’s hot dogs and fries. Every weekend, friends and I would drive to Coney Island and fill up on those fries. Nathan’s difference: they use Katahdin potatoes from Maine and pretty much buy out the entire crop.

Warning: the Nathan’s hot dogs and fries you find in the frozen food aisle at your local supermarket ain’t the same franks ‘n’ fries you get at Coney Island.

Esquire did another ranking of fries more recently. This time KFC was the winner by a “Secretariat-like margin.” I’m not even sure that KFC’s fries qualify as fries. They’re more like puff pastry. Memo: cancel my subscription to Esquire.

Drive-through essential

I love french fries. When I’m in the drive-through, I eat all my fries before I scrounge through the napkins and ketchup packets to the bottom of the bag for my Chick-fil-A Spicy Chicken Sandwich or my Whopper or Double Meat Whataburger.

Fries are the most important item at fast food restaurants. About 70 percent of fast food orders are pushed out the drive-through window. Now fast food chains are building restaurants that are drive-through only.

When you open the bag as you pull out of the drive-through, what’s the first thing you eat? It’s a grabful of fries. First impressions. Fries can make or break a fast food chain.

Of course McDonald’s fries are the gold standard of the fast food industry. McDonald’s uses Russet Burbank, Russet Ranger, Umatilla Russet, and Shepody potatoes. People love ‘em. They’re so crisp and salty. McDonald’s burgers? Pretty just OK, really. The sign outside about “over 99 billion burgers sold” is an insult to the real star of the show. It should say, “Octovigintillions of fries served hourly.”

(Octovigintillion is a real number, by the way. It’s equal to 1x10 to the 87th power. I have no idea how many that actually is, but it sounds like a lot.)

Most times I pass on a burger and get the supersized “basket of fries” at McDonald’s. That’s your big boy. The basket is supposed to serve two or three people. That’s so cute. It’s like a pint of Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla says it contains three servings. This is America, we’re not quitters. Here’s what the nutritional label should say: “Directions: insert spoon, serves one.”

Even at an upscale sit-down restaurant with real silverware, when your plate of fish ‘n’ chips arrives, what’s the first thing you instinctively do? Grab a fry. And then you splash on the malt vinegar. If you haven’t tried malt vinegar on your fries, you’re missing out on the ultimate fry experience. Malt vinegar beats ketchup and it’s not close. And if I see you dip your fries in ranch dressing, well, one of us has to leave the table.

Goode Co. Taqueria interior The lunch took place at Goode Co. Taqueria.Courtesy of Goode Co.

Houston’s best fries

Which gets me around to: I’m constantly searching for the best fries in Houston. People tell me “you’ve got to try the fries at so-and-so” and I run. My ranking is constantly changing, and there’s nothing so personal as your opinion of fries, but here goes.

My new best fries in Houston are at...

Goode Company Taqueria on Kirby. Last week I had lunch with a certain co-worker who knows a thing or 10,000 about the Houston food scene. He ordered tacos, I ordered a burger and fries.

Our food arrived, and like a Pavlov dog, I reached for a fry. And then a few more. These are different. I think I’m in love. I spun my plate around and told my co-worker, “try these, they’re fantastic.” He took a few and agreed, “Yeah, they are good.” This guy saying “they are good” is as good as it gets in this town. I’ve been back two times already for these fries.

There’s my review. My No. 1 all-time best fries in Houston are at Goode Company Taqueria — for now.

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two great tastes

Collaborative cookie bakery and ice cream shop spin up new Meyerland spot

Pudgy's Fine Cookies Underground Creamery Van Teamer Josh DeLeon

Photo by Emily Walling

Van Teamer and Josh DeLeon are coming to Meyerland.

Two of Houston’s foremost purveyors of sweet treats are adding a second location. Pudgy’s Fine Cookies and Underground Creamery are coming to Meyerland.

Scheduled to open in August, the combined cookie bakery and ice cream shop will be located in the Meyerland Court shopping center (4798 Beechnut St.). The location will serve the thick, chewy cookies that Pudgy’s is known for alongside Underground’s first-ever soft service ice cream.

Underground Softies, as the concept is known, is a variation from the hand-packed pints that Underground Creamery sells at Pudgy’s and via its weekly drops — online sales of three or four flavors that change every week and frequently sell out in under an hour. The flavors at Underground Softies will change less frequently.

"We'll be more focused on soft serve with a less dynamic menu instead of constantly changing everything," Underground owner Josh DeLeon said in a statement. "It's going to be a challenge for me, because creating something new every week has always been part of Underground's DNA. But I'm excited to really refine this concept while still finding ways to keep things creative."

DeLeon tells CultureMap that diners will be able to add some of Underground’s signature toppings to their soft serve, including Oreo MSG (malted salted grit), Biscoff grit, sea salt, Craft Pita olive oil, and fudge. More toppings will be added once the new location is running smoothly.

Customers will also be able to purchase a limited selection of Underground pints to-go. However, the weekly drops will only be available at the Heights location.

Van Teamer founded Pudgy’s during the pandemic as an outgrowth of her passion for cookie baking. After decided a franchised cookie bakery’s products were too sweet, she developed her own recipes for cookies such as a chocolate chip (The Pudgy), the Bonanza Brulee, a cookie that combines the flavors of creme brulee and bananas Foster, and the Wild Campfire, a s’mores-inspired cookie with toasted marshmallows and chocolate chunks. Like Underground, Pudgy’s frequently serves limited-edition flavors inspired by special ingredients or the time of year.

The new location expands on the duo’s current location in the Heights that opened in 2022. During those four years, Teamer and DeLeon have deepened their professional relationship. Underground and Pudgy’s have collaborated on cookie and ice cream flavors, participated in events together, and the owners have served as an important sounding board for each other.

"It's the best of both worlds," Teamer said in a statement. "We each have our own businesses and creative freedom, but we also get to share ideas, support one another and celebrate each other's wins. Even though we're doing our own thing, we're working toward the same goal of creating a great experience for our community and helping each other succeed."

"The cross-pollination of our audiences is why we've become what we are," DeLeon added. "I truly believe our brands can stand on their own, but Van has been an incredible mentor when it comes to the business side of things. Sharing knowledge has propelled both of us faster than I ever expected."

In addition to offering soft serve, the new location will improve on the Heights in another important way. It will offer a seating area for people to enjoy their cookies and ice cream.

“Our goal is to become more connected with the community by creating a welcoming space where people can make memories, celebrate special moments and feel right at home," Teamer said.

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