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    Houston's new fry king

    Surprise! Ken Hoffman nominates Kirby taqueria for Houston's best fries

    Ken Hoffman
    Mar 13, 2024 | 11:30 am
    Goode Co taqueria burger and fries

    Ken recommends getting the fries at Goode Co. Taqueria.

    Photo by Jody Horton

    Years ago, Esquire magazine conducted a search for the “Best French fries in America.” The winner was Nathan’s Famous hot dog stand on the corner of Surf and Stillwell in Coney Island at 10 am Monday morning when they change the peanut oil.

    Bull’s-eye! As they say, I’m familiar with the product. I grew up on Nathan’s hot dogs and fries. Every weekend, friends and I would drive to Coney Island and fill up on those fries. Nathan’s difference: they use Katahdin potatoes from Maine and pretty much buy out the entire crop.

    Warning: the Nathan’s hot dogs and fries you find in the frozen food aisle at your local supermarket ain’t the same franks ‘n’ fries you get at Coney Island.

    Esquire did another ranking of fries more recently. This time KFC was the winner by a “Secretariat-like margin.” I’m not even sure that KFC’s fries qualify as fries. They’re more like puff pastry. Memo: cancel my subscription to Esquire.

    Drive-through essential

    I love french fries. When I’m in the drive-through, I eat all my fries before I scrounge through the napkins and ketchup packets to the bottom of the bag for my Chick-fil-A Spicy Chicken Sandwich or my Whopper or Double Meat Whataburger.

    Fries are the most important item at fast food restaurants. About 70 percent of fast food orders are pushed out the drive-through window. Now fast food chains are building restaurants that are drive-through only.

    When you open the bag as you pull out of the drive-through, what’s the first thing you eat? It’s a grabful of fries. First impressions. Fries can make or break a fast food chain.

    Of course McDonald’s fries are the gold standard of the fast food industry. McDonald’s uses Russet Burbank, Russet Ranger, Umatilla Russet, and Shepody potatoes. People love ‘em. They’re so crisp and salty. McDonald’s burgers? Pretty just OK, really. The sign outside about “over 99 billion burgers sold” is an insult to the real star of the show. It should say, “Octovigintillions of fries served hourly.”

    (Octovigintillion is a real number, by the way. It’s equal to 1x10 to the 87th power. I have no idea how many that actually is, but it sounds like a lot.)

    Most times I pass on a burger and get the supersized “basket of fries” at McDonald’s. That’s your big boy. The basket is supposed to serve two or three people. That’s so cute. It’s like a pint of Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla says it contains three servings. This is America, we’re not quitters. Here’s what the nutritional label should say: “Directions: insert spoon, serves one.”

    Even at an upscale sit-down restaurant with real silverware, when your plate of fish ‘n’ chips arrives, what’s the first thing you instinctively do? Grab a fry. And then you splash on the malt vinegar. If you haven’t tried malt vinegar on your fries, you’re missing out on the ultimate fry experience. Malt vinegar beats ketchup and it’s not close. And if I see you dip your fries in ranch dressing, well, one of us has to leave the table.

    Goode Co. Taqueria interiorThe lunch took place at Goode Co. Taqueria.Courtesy of Goode Co.

    Houston’s best fries

    Which gets me around to: I’m constantly searching for the best fries in Houston. People tell me “you’ve got to try the fries at so-and-so” and I run. My ranking is constantly changing, and there’s nothing so personal as your opinion of fries, but here goes.

    My new best fries in Houston are at...

    Goode Company Taqueria on Kirby. Last week I had lunch with a certain co-worker who knows a thing or 10,000 about the Houston food scene. He ordered tacos, I ordered a burger and fries.

    Our food arrived, and like a Pavlov dog, I reached for a fry. And then a few more. These are different. I think I’m in love. I spun my plate around and told my co-worker, “try these, they’re fantastic.” He took a few and agreed, “Yeah, they are good.” This guy saying “they are good” is as good as it gets in this town. I’ve been back two times already for these fries.

    There’s my review. My No. 1 all-time best fries in Houston are at Goode Company Taqueria — for now.

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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