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    Where's Eric Eating

    CultureMap editor's 11 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in October

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 3, 2025 | 5:43 pm

    As both the city editor of CultureMap and the host of a bi-weekly podcast about Houston restaurants, I am one of those fortunate people whose literal job responsibilities include regularly dining at restaurants. Even though I’m not (and never have been) a food critic, it’s impossible to experience these places without forming some opinions about them.

    A couple of years ago, I began documenting my favorite dishes of the month on Instagram. I thought it would be helped for people who looked at my feed as they made their own decisions about which new restaurants to try. Since then, local influencers and food writers have put their own spin on the format.

    In addition to those posts, I’m going to share a few thoughts about my picks here on CultureMap. These are not reviews (at all); instead, they’re meant to be a quick summary of what I liked about each dish.

    My rules are simple. First, expect approximately 10 dishes each month. Critically, it’s only one dish per restaurant, and no restaurant will appear twice in the same month. Generally, they’ll be new restaurants in the Houston area, but I’ll always mix in an old favorite or two — and I reserve the right to include other parts of Texas when something particularly excellent grabs my attention.

    Finally, they’re not presented in any particular order. I do not have a No. 1 favorite dish. I like something about all of them.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in October.

    Bucatini Amatriciana at Paulie’s
    The Montrose staple makes all of its pastas in house, including this tube-shaped style that’s paired with an unapologetically spicy Amatriciana sauce. I add shrimp both for a little protein and to cut the heat a little. With the restaurant set to close December 31, I’ll certainly be back for another order as well as my other favorites on the menu.

    Fried squash blossom taco at Late August
    Part of the restaurant’s recently-introduced, seven-to-nine-course tasting menu, the crispy squash blossom is paired with lettuces from Lucille’s 1913’s farm and wrapped in a tortilla made with nixtamalized blue corn. Earthy, crunchy, and a little spicy, it’s a compelling combination of flavors that shows off chef executive chef Sergio Hidalgo’s skills that helped the Midtown restaurant retain its place in the Michelin Guide.

    Mezze at March
    Speaking of tasting menus at restaurants in the Michelin Guide, one-star March includes this impressive spread of small bites as part of its Levant menu. If it only included the freshly baked pita and caviar, that would have been enough, but the ability to mix and match the various bites — everything from a sweet-and-spicy muhamara to a tangy cheese and briny olives — added an interactive, almost playful element that matches the restaurant’s light-hearted approach to contemporary fine dining.

    Wonton soup, grilled beef spring roll, and Vietnamese egg rolls at Kim Son
    Before the restaurant closed on October 12, I put it one last to-go order that featured three items I’ve been enjoying for more than 30 years. Most of all, I’ll miss the wonton soup for being the perfect source of salty, savory comfort any time I felt a little under the weather or wanted to be warmed up on a cold day.

    Stone crab and cold seafood at Truluck’s
    Recently reopened after a two-month renovation, the Galleria-area steakhouse is once again serving its signature stone crab. While the days of all-you-can-eat are gone, the sweet, briny crab remains as compelling as ever.

    Barbecue tray at Redbird BBQ
    Admittedly, Port Neches isn’t in the Houston area, but this barbecue restaurant, ranked No. 4 in the state by Texas Monthly, is worth the 100-mile drive. Go for the hot honey ribs, the expertly-rendered brisket, the Persian-style koobideh sausage, the dinner rolls — well, all of it, really. And save a little room for banana pudding.

    Capellini with lobster at Coltivare
    While every visit to this Heights staple should always include its signature black pepper spaghetti, those who eschew its other pastas are missing out. The thing, delicate noodle allows the lobster’s natural sweetness to shine, as do the herbs and lemon in the sauce. Given the seasonal nature of most of Coltivare’s menu, go soon, since it might not be around much longer.

    Sea bass with frisee and smoked trout roe at Leo’s River Oaks
    Steaks are definitely the focus at this retro-styled establishment that won Best New Restaurant at the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, but chef Kirk Thompson and his team cook a nice piece of fish, too. Here, the seared sea bass gets a boost of umami from the smoked trout roe, while a citrus beurre blanc adds acidity to cut the rich flavors.

    Ginger-scallion lobster at Fung’s Kitchen
    Prompted by my mother to choose “something different” for dinner, we headed outside the Loop to this Southwest Houston staple. One of the lobster preparations is always a reliable choice, as the wok-seared meat is never rubbery or overcooked and the delicate sauce brightens up the meat. The half Peking duck we split could’ve also made this month’s list.

    Chicken Milanese at Maximo
    Since taking over the kitchen earlier this year, chef Adrian Torres has continued to showcase his vision for modern Mexican cuisine at this Rice Village restaurant. Crispy, juicy, and paired with a spicy green spaghetti, the chicken Milanese is comforting, familiar, and utterly craveable. No wonder Michelin included Maximo as one of the city’s five new Bib Gourmand recipients.

    Wild mushroom pizza at Murray’s Pizza & Wine
    Newly opened in Memorial, this new concept from the owners of Leaf & Grain offers an elevated approach to pizza centered around a sourdough crust that’s fermented for three days. For this pie, a mix of mushrooms are roasted in wine and butter that’s further enhanced with a bright salsa verde and a garlic-cream sauce. The intensely savory flavors make for a compelling bite, especially when paired with the restaurant’s frozen Negroni.

    For more Houston food coverage, follow @ericsandler and @culturemaphou on Instagram and subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Paulie's restaurant bucatini

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    The bucatini Amatricana at Paulie's brings the heat.

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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Ronnie Killen sets closing date for his Michelin-rated comfort food eatery

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 22, 2026 | 9:48 am
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, Ryan Hildenbrand
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, and Ryan Hildenbrand at the 2025 Texas Michelin Guide ceremony.

    Since the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Texas, it has been rare for any included restaurant to close, but Killen’s, chef Ronnie Killen’s Southern restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation, will serve its final meals on Sunday, July 19.

    Open since 2020 in the space previously occupied by Hickory Hollow, Killen’s serves a Southern-inspired menu based on chef Killen’s family recipes. That includes chicken fried steak and fried chicken, as well as Killen’s signature items such as barbecue and smoked pork belly bites. Last year, chef Killen recruited chef Ryan Hildebrand (formerly of Triniti) to elevate the menu and upgraded the restaurant with new furniture, dinnerware, and silverware.

    All of which is to say that chef Killen’s decision to sell the property for $3.5 million to a new owner — who plans to convert it into a gas station — comes as a bit of a surprise. As he tells CultureMap in an exclusive interview, a number of reasons played into the decision.

    Why Killen’s is closing

    First, the chef has been consolidating his operations over the past few years. Closing Killen’s follows the 2023 closure of Mexican-inspired Pearland restaurant Killen’s TMX; the 2024 shuttering of Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; and the 2025 closures of both of his restaurants in The Woodlands, Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue.

    As Killen has discussed before, a number of injuries and surgeries have limited his mobility and caused him considerable pain. A couple months ago, he had another back procedure that’s left him unable to bend over to tie his shoes but has improved his overall health.

    “The chronic pain was so much worse than it was [before the surgery]. I’m not taking drugs everyday not to be in pain,” Killen says.

    In addition, the chef’s confidence in the restaurant’s location has also waned due to increased crime in the area. In one particularly bizarre incident, he spent $8,000 to remove graffiti by a mentally unstable woman who accused the restaurant of causing harm to her stuffed monkey.

    “When I first bought the place, I could walk to H-E-B and get stuff. I was never asked for money. or worried about getting held up,” he says. “Now, i get asked for money three different times on every corner. I think the area has gotten worse.”

    Finally, despite the Michelin recognition and new energy chef Hildebrand brought to the restaurant, it simply hasn’t performed as well financially as it needed to in order to stay open. The money he’ll make from selling the land is far more than the restaurant will earn, even over the next couple of years.

    “If the place were doing $10 million a year, I would have looked at the restaurant value instead of the land value,” Killen says.

    Ryan Hildebrand’s perspective

    Chef Hildebrand understands Killen’s business decision to cash out and move on. He went through a similar process at Triniti, his critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurant that closed in 2017. He’s committed to staying with the restaurant until it closes — at which point, he’ll be looking for a new job.

    “I’ve been an owner,” Hildebrand says. “I’ve owned the real estate. When someone makes you an offer and the restaurant isn’t doing what you wanted, you have a decision.”

    Ultimately, Hildebrand thinks the changes he made — including adding more seafood and other items to move the restaurant slightly upmarket — confused regular customers who just wanted the restaurant’s original dishes and heaping portions.

    “The challenge was to not shock the system too harshly. To hang onto the clientele that was existing and that was loyal. They were entrenched in barbecue,” Hildebrand says. “We had to maintain the identity and at the same time change things. We probably needed to rebrand the whole show. Shut it down. Change the name. Change the menu.”

    Still, he's proud of the work he did in the eight months he spent at the restaurant, and he's eager to take on his next challenge.

    "I definitely want to stay in Houston," he says. "We’re home. We’re much happier. The search starts now. You can announce it. I am wildly available."

    Closing Killen’s will leave Ronnie Killen with just five restaurants — three locations of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, Cypress, and Hobby Airport; Killen’s Burgers in Pearland; and Killen’s Steakhouse, which is currently closed for renovations that Ronnie Killen hopes will help it earn a Michelin star (more on that in the weeks to come).

    “It’s just business and timing,” Killen says. “Trust me, it’s very hard. That place means so much to me. It was built with recipes that my grandmother and my godmother made. It was the food I ate as a kid that made me want to become a chef.”

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