STEAKS ARE HIGH
Cherished Houston steakhouse carves out first San Antonio location on River Walk
Talk about a prime location. On July 20, storied eatery Brenner’s Steakhouse opened its first location outside of Houston on the banks of the San Antonio River Walk.
The new restaurant, located at 215 Losoya St., is only the third location under the Brenner’s name. Herman and Lorene Brenner founded the concept as a casual café in 1936 before the construction of the Katy Freeway spurred a change of location. A second outpost followed in 2007 after Landry’s Restaurants owner Tilman Fertitta revitalized the name.
Though officially part of a conglomerate that includes touristy spots like Rainforest Café and Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., the new Brenner’s takes a more upscale approach. Steaks range from a six-ounce A5 Wagyu filet to an intimidating 36-ounce tomahawk, all of which can be dressed with tony accompaniments like cognac-peppercorn sauce, foie gras, or truffle butter.
For less decadent days, executive chef Abel Sanchez offers plentiful alternatives from pan-roasted chicken breast to braised short rib in mole. Naturally, the restaurant also serves plenty of surf to go with the turf, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, a pair of sushi rolls, and an indulgent seafood tower layered with king crab, lobster, oysters, mussels, shrimp, caviar, and more.
While deciding on their entrée selection, guests can rifle through a wide-ranging wine list including more than 300 bottles. Additionally, the full bar includes beefy tequila and whiskey selections, beer, and cocktails ranging from tried-and-true classics to originals like a coconut-rose riff on ranch water.
If the menu didn’t offer enough clues, fanciness is also the MO of the interior. The walls are sheathed in limestone and exposed brick, accented with dark wood. Of course, each of the three levels, containing a mezzanine, patio, bar, and main dining room, offer sweeping views of the River Walk.
As CultureMap Houston food editor Eric Sandler notes, this scenic/waterfront setup sounds similar to the posh Brenner's on the Bayou, which features a prime location next to the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston's iconic Bayou Bend Collection and Gardens.
To add frisson, a live pianist will tickle the ivories. Though a press release promised a variety of music genres, surely jaws would drop if they busted out a few bars of “WAP.” Guests should also be aware that Brenner’s does not have the come-as-you-are laxity of most San Antonio joints. The dress code prohibits gym attire, beachwear, and baseball hats — presumably, even the $600 Loro Piana cashmere cap seen on Succession.
Those who don’t mind getting gussied up can visit the Brenner’s bar starting at 3 pm daily. Dinner service begins at 4 pm and extends through 10 pm most days and 11 on Friday and Saturday.