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    2024 wine resolutions

    CultureMap Wine Guy Chris Shepherd and friends spill their 2024 must-drink list and resolutions

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 10, 2024 | 4:40 pm

    Editor's note: Long before Chris Shepherd became a James Beard Award-winning chef, he developed enough of a passion for wine to work at Brennan's of Houston as a sommelier. He maintains that interest to this day. In this week's column, he asks his wine-loving friends and colleagues to share their wine resolutions for 2024. Take it away, Chris.

    Team! I hope 2024 is treating you well. After writing the last column about the wines that I loved last year, I started thinking about what I was looking forward to drinking this year — wines I want to have more in my life in 2024.

    I also thought that you might like to know the resolutions from some of the smartest wine friends that I know. Let’s call it the 2024 Hot List. Here we go!

    Ikimi Dubose-Woodson: Co-Founder and CEO of The Roots Fund, Southern Smoke Foundation Board Member
    This year I’m focusing on wines from Oregon (Pinot) and wines from Loire Valley. I’m thinking of ways to connect with the new generation through affordable wines that taste good. Building my wines under $50 list, which I haven’t done in awhile.

    Oregon happens to be thriving with new winemakers and more Burgundian's investing in projects. Loire Valley is just a gem that I’ve haven’t explored as much as I love French wine. Who doesn’t love Sancerre or bomb ass white wine? Both regions would be cool places to tell new wine drinkers about.

    Molly Austad: Wine Director of Bludorn and Navy Blue
    My answer is sake! When we opened Navy Blue, I gained a heightened appreciation for sake. I discovered a myriad of expressions I was formerly unaware of. Everything from Champagne method to barrel-aged sakes — and that doesn’t scratch the surface of what’s out there. Here’s to continued exploration of this exquisite Japanese libation!

    Matt Pridgen: Southern Smoke Beverage Director
    Mencía, because Mencía! I love the earth, wild berry, spice, herb, and mineral notes. Total package and almost always reasonably priced.

    Brandon Kerne, Master Sommelier (MS): COO of Art of Cellaring/Texas Wine School
    We sell a lot of Old World wines, and in particular Burgundies and Bordeauxs. This year though, I'm going to do my damndest to live more in the New World with this Old World soul. The once clear lines between Old World and New World styles continue to be blurred, and I have had more mind-bending experiences with Australian wines that taste like Burgundy and Côte-Rôtie this year than I want to admit to. I feel like I know very little about what's current and exciting in the Australian wine scene. I'm looking forward to exploring and expanding our selections of wines from down under.

    June Rodil, MS: CEO of Goodnight Hospitality, Southern Smoke Foundation Vice President
    You know mine, Savvy B! More Sauv Blanc. It wakes up your palate, has fresh acidity, and is unabashedly itself (which is something that I plan to be more of in 2024 and into my old age). Additionally, it's the best wine for airplanes, because your nose and aromas are more muted at that altitude so you really get a full flavor of something up in the air (which is more than I can say for flight food).

    Robert Sinskey: Robert Sinskey Vineyards
    Fabulously, finicky Franc! Cabernet Franc makes some of the best and worst wines in the world but when grown in the right spot, it is sublime.

    Tony McClung: Wine consultant to the stars, international man of mystery, my friend and teacher of Italian wine
    I’m a Lambrusco pusher. To this day, one of the most under appreciated wines for pure pleasure on the dinner table. Despite the explosion of bubbly consumption, the folks in the home of some of the best dining in Italy, Emilia-Romagna, have missed the marketing opportunity. From bone dry and rustic to low alcohol fruit bombs, something for everyone.

    Antonio Gianola: Houston Wine Merchant
    Sangiovese and White Bordeaux. Both are exceptional food wines and every time I open a bottle I am impressed with how they fit in at the table. From the simplest to the most profound, the quality across the range ($15-500+) is a showstopper.

    Erin Smith: Co-Owner and Wine Director of Feges BBQ, Southern Smoke Foundation Board Member
    I want to explore more wines from the Jura. And since my New Year's resolution is to travel more, I'd like to be drinking a glass of vin jaune in the Jura countryside sometime this year!

    Jack Mason, MS: Director of Business Development for RNDC
    I want to dig further into Chardonnay from Oregon — many are being made in a balanced style and more and more producers are exploring the category. Finding a lot of potential with the ones I have been able to try this far!

    Felipe Riccio: Chef/Partner of Goodnight Hospitality
    I wanna do deep dives into the regions we explore with the 2024 menus at March and with that, I want to make sure the cooks at March get to explore it too. It will help them understand the region and the food we are cooking more!

    Julie Dalton, MS, CWE: Wine Director at Stella's Wine Bar at The Post Oak Hotel
    For me, just more from Italy in general. Red, white, bubbly, dry, sweet. It's hard to pry me away from Austria and Germany, but when I do, it's almost always Italy and I want to explore more of the less traveled regions like Alto Piemonte, Liguria and Umbria.

    Jasmine Hirsch: Winemaker and General Manager of Hirsch Vineyards
    So, I have two responses.

    The snarky one first: I want to drink more Grand Cru Red Burgundy this year. Anyone want to open bottles for me?

    And the real one: I want to drink wines made by good people, grown with care for the soil and planet, that open my heart and mind.

    Keith Goldston, MS: Landry’s, Inc.
    Here is my number one wine resolution for 2024. More often, have a glass of wine with dinner at home. Not stressing about what is open or the pairing, just enjoying a glass with food. Sometimes it is hard to separate wine from work, but wine always shows better with food and having that glass with dinner is a great way to remind us of why we love it. Plus it will help me not drink too much of my second resolution.

    Resolution No. 2 — Drink more wheated bourbons!

    Terrence Gallivan: Chef/Owner of Elro
    More Rhone. Because I love it and didn’t drink enough Rhone wine this year.

    Steven McDonald, MS: Executive Wine Director, Pappas Bros Steakhouses
    I'm trying to work my way through a wider range of crisp, unoaked European whites so I can stock the house with fresh, easy drinking, warm weather libations.

    Paul Roberts, MS
    Now that we live in Asheville, I am drinking more beer than ever and really enjoying the diversity. On a wine level, now that I am not around it on a daily basis I am having what I call my “Return to Classics” movement. Over the last few years that has been such a crazy explosion in wines of the world (many of which are delicious) I feel that we have lost sight of the OG regions. So give me more Chablis, Mosel Riesling, Piedmont (Barbera, Dolcetto), and definitely a deeper dive into the communes of Chianti.

    Chris Shepherd, CultureMap Wine Guy, Eat Like a Local host, Southern Smoke Foundation Founding Director
    What am I going to be drinking more of this year, you ask? I’m definitely going to explore more Chardonnay. Recent trips to Napa, Sonoma, and Santa Barbara led me down a road of these varietals that I had not really traveled in a long time. Yes, I drink a lot of Chablis and love that flavor profile — over the years we are seeing so much delicious Chardonnay that is being produced all over the world so let’s try more!

    I also want to drink and learn more about Spanish red wines in general. They are delicious and quite frankly under represented on many wine lists. I will almost always head to the Pinot, Rhône, and Italian varietals and totally overlook Spain. That’s gotta stop!

    So now that we have an idea of what some pretty good wine professionals are resolving to drink, what path are you going to go down? I bet it will be delicious and quite frankly really fun! Happy new year!

    -----

    Which wines do you want to drink more often in 2024? Tell Chris Shepherd via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

    June Rodil Goodnight Hospitality
      

    Photo by Zach Horst

    June Rodil will drink more sauvignon blanc in 2024.

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    Your move, TxMo

    Predicting 13 barbecue joints that could make Texas Monthly's new top 10

    Eric Sandler
    May 20, 2025 | 6:00 pm
    Truth BBQ tray
    Courtesy of Truth BBQ
    Houstonians might riot if Truth BBQ falls out of the top 10.

    The world of Texas barbecue is shivering with anticipation. On Tuesday, May 27, Texas Monthly will publish its latest ranking of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints.

    Released every four years, the list is considered by many to be the definitive guide to Texas barbecue. Part of that authority comes from the effort Texas Monthly puts into traveling across the state in search of the best smoked meats, sides, and desserts. For the 2021 edition, the magazine enlisted 35 writers to visit more than 400 restaurants. While the numbers on the 2025 edition won’t be revealed until next week, readers can expect a similar, or perhaps even more exhaustive, effort this time around.

    In that spirit, let’s make some predictions about what the 2025 list may look like. While I don’t have any specific insight into the thinking of Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn, I am a voracious reader of his work and a native Texan who enjoys a good barbecue road trip. The predictions below are based on my analysis of Texas Monthly’s previous lists and visits to most of the places I think will be in the top 10.

    Let’s be clear. The state of Texas barbecue has never been more competitive, because barbecue restaurants have never worked harder to impress diners. In 2017, a restaurant that served prime meats, cooked with wood, and made respectable sides had a high probability of making the top 50. In 2021, a lot of those places fell off in favor of establishments that both cooked a wider range of proteins than the traditional beef brisket, pork ribs, and sausage and put more personality into their sides, and, for the first time, desserts.

    In 2025, those restaurants are being challenged by places that go a little further. Many are open for lunch and dinner — something that was essentially unthinkable in 2017. More and more are incorporating flavors from a diverse array of culinary traditions, including Mexican, Vietnamese, Persian, and more. The best places are making their own breads, whether it’s dinner rolls, pita, or tortillas. Whatever Texas Monthly decides, vigorous debate will surely follow.

    Examining the changes from 2017 to 2021 provides a basis for predicting 2025.

    No sacred cows
    Barbecue joints do not earn a place on the list based on reputation or historical significance. In 2021, the magazine included a whopping 29 new entries, including five of the coveted top 10. Icons like Cooper’s in Llano and Kreuz Market in Lockhart gave way to newcomers like Austin’s Interstellar, which ranked No. 2 — pushing the legendary Franklin Barbecue to No. 7. Even a spot in the previous edition’s top 10 doesn’t guarantee a place in the new top 50.

    Youth will be served
    The magazine’s 2023 list of the The 25 Best New and Improved BBQ Joints in Texas provides some insight into who will make the top 50. Expect at least one member of the new top 10 to have opened since the publication of the 2023 list.

    Michelin who?
    Barbecue restaurants earned 28 of the 117 entries in the first Texas edition of the Michelin Guide, including four restaurants that received stars (out of 15 total). That probably won’t matter much to Texas Monthly, which uses its own criteria to evaluate barbecue joints. In other words, Spring’s CorkScrew BBQ may have a Michelin star, but it probably isn’t returning to the TxMo top 10.

    Expect surprises
    The magazine likes to lead opinions rather than follow conventional wisdom. That tradition goes back to at least 2008, when Snow’s in Lexington became the surprise No. 1. In 2021, both Goldee’s and Interstellar were surprise picks to rank No. 1 and No. 2, but they’ve both flourished in the spotlight created by Texas Monthly’s acclaim. Somewhere in Texas, a barbecue joint no one predicts is about to have its fortunes forever changed with a spot in the top 10.

    Predicting the top 10

    Similar to my predictions for the Michelin Guide, I decided to look at the Texas Monthly list from a sports betting perspective. Certain restaurants are more likely to rank highly than others, after all. In the spirit, I’ve divided the restaurants into three categories: Locks, Probably, and Fingers Crossed. Each category is presented in alphabetical order.

    Before diving in, a special shoutout to Bryan Norton and Andrew Martinez of the Tales From the Pits podcast. Outside of Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn, no one I know visits as many barbecue joints or thinks as deeply about their quality. Listen to their recent episodes detailing their top 15 Texas barbecue joints and Texas Monthly top 50 predictions for more insight.

    Locks

    Burnt Bean Co.: The Seguin restaurant was less than a year old when it ranked No. 4 on the 2021 list. Since then, co-owners Ernest Servantes and David Kirkland have rolled out their essential Sunday breakfast service, where Servantes puts a barbecue spin on iconic dishes such as huevos rancheros and lamb barbacoa. It’s my current pick for the best in Texas.

    Goldee’s: The reigning No. 1 has only gotten better since 2021 as co-owners Jalen Heard, Lane Milne, and Jonny White have integrated the lessons they learned working at some of the state’s top joints with their own personalities. Located near Fort Worth, they do it all, from housemade bread to creative sides to adding international flavors like the Thai-style waterfall pulled pork I sampled on a recent visit.

    LeRoy and Lewis: Ranked No. 5 in 2021, the Austin restaurant moved from a food truck to a polished brick-and-mortar in 2024. Now open for lunch and dinner six days a week, the restaurant’s refined offerings include beef cheeks, whole hog, cauliflower burnt ends, and a top-flight burger. Its Friday night steak special, available by reservation only, is the stuff carnivore dreams are made of.

    Probably

    Barbs B Q: The restaurant brings new school cred to Lockhart. Not only did pitmaster Chuck Charnichart hone her skills at Goldee’s, she brings personality to the menu with touches like fresh lime zest on the pork ribs and the signature green spaghetti, a chile-spiced ode to her hometown of Brownsville. This is the restaurant from the 2023 new and improved list that seems most likely to crack the top 10.

    Cattleack: Ranked in the top 10 in both 2017 (No. 3) and 2021 (No. 6), it’s hard to imagine that the best barbecue in Dallas falls out of the top 10. The restaurant is open more days per week than ever before, and its menu remains as wide-ranging as ever, with seven full-time proteins that are joined by weekly specials.

    Redbird: Barbecue enthusiasts statewide have been making the pilgrimage to the East Texas town of Port Neches (near Beaumont) to try pitmaster Amir Jalali’s creations. Not only did he train at both Feges BBQ in Houston and Goldee’s, he’s embraced the full DIY experience with housemade dinner rolls, a Caesar salad-inspired riff on coleslaw, and a Persian-influenced beef koobideh sausage that’s served with housemade pita bread. Houstonians looking for a barbecue adventure — or a detour on their way to a Louisiana casino — should make the journey.

    Truth: Ranked No. 3 in 2021, the Houston location of Leonard Botello IV’s joint continues to expand its vision of Texas barbecue. The restaurant is now open for dinner, serves a first-rate burger, and recently added new tastes such as the cold smoked, cornmeal-crusted pork chop that’s absolutely can’t-miss. Houstonians might make Texas Monthly bonfires in the parking lot if it’s left off the list.

    Fingers Crossed

    Bar-A-BBQ: Located outside Houston in Montgomery, pitmaster Cooper Abercrombie earned a spot on the new and improved list for well-executed sausages, creative sides, and Saturday morning breakfast service that includes breakfast tacos and kolaches. This one feels a little like Tejas, where the magazine bets that an up-and-comer is ready to make the leap to barbecue royalty.

    Dayne’s: Since making the top 50 in 2021, the Fort Worth-area favorite has stepped up its game by moving from a food truck to a brick-and-mortar in the suburb of Aledo. Known for its creative sausages and award-winning burger, the restaurant may have done enough to force its way into the top 10.

    Interstellar: Ranked No. 2 and sporting a Michelin star, John Bates brings a fine dining pedigree and a chef’s knack for innovation to his Austin-area restaurant. Signatures like peach-tea brined pork belly and pulled lamb shoulder remain as vital as ever. Falling out of the top 10 would be pretty unlikely, but someone’s got to make room for the newcomers.

    Sabar: Like Barbs and Redbird, this Fort Worth-area food truck is led by a Goldee’s alum in Zain Shafi. The Pakistani-influenced menu broadens the range of Texas barbecue with dishes such as nihari burnt ends, tandoori turkey, and seekh kebab sausage. Goldee’s co-owner Lane Milne strongly encouraged me to add Sabar to my Fort Worth itinerary — maybe he was trying to give me a hint that its line was about to get a lot longer.

    Snow’s and Franklin: Arguably the two most famous Texas barbecue joints in the world, they topped the 2017 list and ranked No. 9 and No. 7, respectively, in 2021. No one’s saying they’ve gotten worse — just look at the massive number of people who still line up at both restaurants — but the newer joints are serving so much more expansive menus (at just as high a level of quality) that it’s hard to see both staying in the top 10.

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