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    Houston's newest master somm

    Houston's newest master sommelier on the grueling process of passing the wine world's toughest test

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 24, 2021 | 2:47 pm
    Brandon Kerne Jeremy Broto-mur Master Sommelier
    Brandon Kerne, left, spent 10 years working towards passing the exam.
    Court of Master Sommeliers/Facebook

    Another Houston beverage professional has passed the wine world’s toughest test. Brandon Kerne has become the city’s newest master sommelier.

    Administered by the Court of Master Sommeliers, fewer than 200 people worldwide hold the prestigious title, including five other Houstonians: June Rodil (Goodnight Hospitality), Jack Mason (Republic National Distributing Company), Keith Goldston (The Post Oak), Steven McDonald (Pappas Bros. Steakhouse), and Guy Stout (Stout Family Wines).

    Kerne tells CultureMap he’s spent the last 10 years pursuing his goal of earning his new status while working for a number of establishments including Pappas Bros. Steakhouse and, more recently, as the director of operations for the Art of Cellaring, a facility that offers wine storage, sales, tastings, and classes.

    “A lot of this is personal growth and self actualization. I had a goal 10 years ago. I wanted to get over this hump,” he says. “It’s nice to be recognized by my peers and to finally be able to get back to my friends and family. Since I made the goal, I’ve taken it really seriously.”

    In Kerne’s case, “seriously” meant studying wine theory intensely — sometimes for as much as 12 hours per day — for six to nine months while working full time for Pappas Bros. He credits Mason and McDonald, his former colleagues at the steakhouse, with helping him prepare for the rigorous tasting section by giving him practice flights.

    After coming up short on the tasting in previous exams, Kerne says he upped his mental game by learning breathing exercises. He sought to improve his luck, too.

    “I had animal figurines in my pocket. I had crystals in my pocket. I had breathing exercises,” he says. “I’ll try anything. Let’s just get this thing done.”

    While the Court of Master Sommeliers had to change some procedures after some prominent members were credibly accused of sexual harassment, Kerne thinks the discipline required to pass the exam can serve as a useful goal for people looking to advance their careers.

    “The reason I continued down this path is because I believe in it,” he says. “It pulled me out of a depression and gave me purpose in life, having a goal and something to work towards.”

    Turning to his current role at the Art of Cellaring, the wine facility in Upper Kirby offers both its members and members of the general public ways to broaden their knowledge. The facility’s Texas Wine School is the only place in the South where someone can earn a WSET diploma, and its Art of Cellaring Selections wine store offers 3,500 different bottles for purchase.

    “It’s not window shopping, but you can walk in the door and walk through a selection of wines that consists of everything from $10 Spanish Grenache to some of the greatest Burgundy on the planet,” Kerne explains.

    The sommelier says he plans to celebrate this weekend with Champagne, Barolo, and Burgundy, so it seemed fitting to ask him about natural wine. The emerging movement is prominently featured at a number of bars and restaurants around town, including Light Years and Nancy’s Hustle. Kerne acknowledges some of it tastes of “bizarre alien yeast flavors,” but credits Nancy’s sommelier Justin Vann with guiding him to selections he can appreciate.

    “I think all the natural wine lovers in Houston are really cool people, and I want to hang out with all of them,” he says. “I’ll bring the Burgundy, and I’ll drink whatever the hell they give me as long as they tell me about it.”

    ---

    Mary Clarkson contributed to this article.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    news-you-can-eatsouplistschefsanderson
    news/restaurants-bars

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    Historic Houston theater secures $7 million loan to begin renovations

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