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    Shaken, Not Stirred

    Posh Houston oyster spot ices competition on Esquire's 50 best martinis list

    Lindsey Wilson
    Dec 18, 2023 | 6:30 pm
    Little's Oyster Bar miss moneypenny martini

    Little's Oyster Bar's Miss Moneypenny shakes up the 007 classic.

    Photo by Arturo Olmas

    Anytime there's a "bests" list for cocktails, it has to be taken with a grain of salt. Margarita jokes aside, Esquire has declared the 50 best martinis in America, based on the personal tastes of its reporting team.

    According to the article, these intrepid food and drink experts "spent the past few years sipping hundreds of martinis across the country to find modern classics and the essential, old-school stalwarts." It's hard work, but someone's got to do it. And guess what? Texas can claim two of them.

    Houston makes the list via the Golden Martini at Little's Oyster Bar.

    Writer Omar Mamoon says of this martini:

    Few things cut the brininess of beautiful bivalves quite like the smooth, ice cold combination of gin and vermouth. At Little's, the addition of grapefruit bitters and chamomile licorice stock adds a complex floral, anisey layer and imparts a beautiful golden hue to the drink.

    And in Austin, Small Victory also makes the alphabetical list with its titular martini, about which writer Kevin Sintumuang says:

    Little's Oyster Bar martinisLittle's Oyster Bar's elevated martinis include classics and a Pink Chai Tini.Photo courtesy of Little's Oyster Bar

    Austin is very much a beer, shot and margarita town. So when I need a break from that – and yes, you need a break from that – I find myself climbing a staircase in a parking garage to find the hidden entrance to Small Victory, where they really know how to make a martini. There’s a flow chart on the menu that will guide you through some personalization. But you can also leave it in the hands of the bartenders, who have dozens of riffs of the martini on hand. Be ready to discover a new favorite.

    The Chandelier Martini is crowned the inaugural martini of the year. You can find it at the Chandelier Bar inside the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, and here are some cool facts about it:

    • It's served in a coupe glass made from the same crystal as the bar's famous chandelier.
    • It went through 17 iterations before landing on its current recipe.
    • It's made of a blend of three gins.
    • It gets stirred 24 times.
    • It's served with a second glass containing lemon peel, Castelvetrano olives, and pickled Louisiana mirliton on a bed of crushed ice.

    Sintumuang calls it "an innovative martini that very much plays within the traditional rules," but perhaps more taste-testing needs to be done. After all, Houston martini fans know that the Bobby's Martini at Refuge, Terry's Martini at Squable, and the house martini at March (among others) are all worthy of recognition.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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