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    Big Sexy Donut Emporium

    Big Sexy promises it will be worth the wait for donut emporium, looks for new chicken space

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2014 | 12:48 pm

    Don't you hate it when the summer's optimism gives way to the cruel realities of winter? Jason Hill certainly understands.

    The chef, known around town as Big Sexy, has been looking forward to opening Hugs & Donuts with his business partner Matt Opaleski since the duo raised over $58,000 on Kickstarter in June and July. They planned to open shortly thereafter, but Hugs & Donuts still hasn't debuted.

    "No one’s really done the donut right yet. Some people have tried, but no one’s really gone out of the comfort zone and done anything really astonishing or crazy out there."

    Hill says he thought they'd be open by now but estimates a mid-January opening.

    The shop looks almost ready for customers. Overall, the space sports a casual look. Bright orange chairs sit around unpainted, donut-shaped wood tables. A display case remains empty, but the donut fryer just needs to be plugged in.

    "I think we’ve paid close to 30 grand in rent. It’s taken eight months of buildout and a lot of delays with the city. Seven or eight months just to get the plans approved before the build out (started)," Hill says.

    He cites Houston's popularity as another reason the shop is delayed.

    "A lot of it is that there’s so much construction in Houston that it’s hard to get small bids done. You end up using electricians, plumbers and concrete smashers who are in between larger jobs or doing it at night. You’re sort of at their beck and call on when they can do it, because your job is smaller than everyone else’s job."

    Bird House blues

    Just as they're preparing to open Hugs & Donuts, Hill and Opaleski are winding down The Bird House fried chicken pop-up. The return of crawfish season will cause the space to revert to being the Boil House in the next three or four weeks. Increased competition from the likes of The Chicken Ranch and the upcoming Lee's Chicken and Donuts means The Bird House probably won't reopen in The Heights.

    "I’d like to put (a chicken restaurant) in Garden Oaks or Oak Forest. I think that neighborhood is underserved."

    "I definitely saw my numbers go down a little bit when The Chicken Ranch opened. I think once Lance (Fegen, co-owner of Lee's) reopens it’ll probably be less," Hill predicts. "I’d like to put it in Garden Oaks or Oak Forest. I think that neighborhood is underserved."

    Hill says the duo may also re-concept their venerable H-town StrEATs truck to offer some of the fried chicken and sides that have been well-received at The Bird House.

    Whatever the future holds for their fried chicken restaurant, Hill says interest remains strong for Hugs & Donuts. "We get Facebook messages every day about when are we going to open. We get Twitter messages every day."

    Beyond people who want their Kickstarter rewards, Hill offers a simple explanation for the strong interest. "No one’s really done the donut right yet. Some people have tried, but no one’s really gone out of the comfort zone and done anything really astonishing or crazy out there."

    Expect to see flavors like key lime pie and curry when Hugs & Donuts opens to justify those sorts of ambitions. Savory and sweet kolaches will round out the initial offerings, which will grow over time.

    "Just be patient with us. We’re doing the best we can," Hill says to the eager backers. "I would just drive by and stare at the people to make sure they’re working. It’s really all I can do. I’m just a chef. I’m not an electrician or a plumber or a city inspector.

    "It’ll be worth the wait," he promises. "The space is beautiful. The logistics are good. It’s going to work out really well."

    Hugs & Donuts promises tasty treats like these when it opens, hopefully by mid-January.

    Hugs & Donuts photo from Facebook page
    Hugs & Donuts Facebook
    Hugs & Donuts promises tasty treats like these when it opens, hopefully by mid-January.
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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Ronnie Killen sets closing date for his Michelin-rated comfort food eatery

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 22, 2026 | 9:48 am
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, Ryan Hildenbrand
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, and Ryan Hildenbrand at the 2025 Texas Michelin Guide ceremony.

    Since the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Texas, it has been rare for any included restaurant to close, but Killen’s, chef Ronnie Killen’s Southern restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation, will serve its final meals on Sunday, July 19.

    Open since 2020 in the space previously occupied by Hickory Hollow, Killen’s serves a Southern-inspired menu based on chef Killen’s family recipes. That includes chicken fried steak and fried chicken, as well as Killen’s signature items such as barbecue and smoked pork belly bites. Last year, chef Killen recruited chef Ryan Hildebrand (formerly of Triniti) to elevate the menu and upgraded the restaurant with new furniture, dinnerware, and silverware.

    All of which is to say that chef Killen’s decision to sell the property for $3.5 million to a new owner — who plans to convert it into a gas station — comes as a bit of a surprise. As he tells CultureMap in an exclusive interview, a number of reasons played into the decision.

    Why Killen’s is closing

    First, the chef has been consolidating his operations over the past few years. Closing Killen’s follows the 2023 closure of Mexican-inspired Pearland restaurant Killen’s TMX; the 2024 shuttering of Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; and the 2025 closures of both of his restaurants in The Woodlands, Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue.

    As Killen has discussed before, a number of injuries and surgeries have limited his mobility and caused him considerable pain. A couple months ago, he had another back procedure that’s left him unable to bend over to tie his shoes but has improved his overall health.

    “The chronic pain was so much worse than it was [before the surgery]. I’m not taking drugs everyday not to be in pain,” Killen says.

    In addition, the chef’s confidence in the restaurant’s location has also waned due to increased crime in the area. In one particularly bizarre incident, he spent $8,000 to remove graffiti by a mentally unstable woman who accused the restaurant of causing harm to her stuffed monkey.

    “When I first bought the place, I could walk to H-E-B and get stuff. I was never asked for money. or worried about getting held up,” he says. “Now, i get asked for money three different times on every corner. I think the area has gotten worse.”

    Finally, despite the Michelin recognition and new energy chef Hildebrand brought to the restaurant, it simply hasn’t performed as well financially as it needed to in order to stay open. The money he’ll make from selling the land is far more than the restaurant will earn, even over the next couple of years.

    “If the place were doing $10 million a year, I would have looked at the restaurant value instead of the land value,” Killen says.

    Ryan Hildebrand’s perspective

    Chef Hildebrand understands Killen’s business decision to cash out and move on. He went through a similar process at Triniti, his critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurant that closed in 2017. He’s committed to staying with the restaurant until it closes — at which point, he’ll be looking for a new job.

    “I’ve been an owner,” Hildebrand says. “I’ve owned the real estate. When someone makes you an offer and the restaurant isn’t doing what you wanted, you have a decision.”

    Ultimately, Hildebrand thinks the changes he made — including adding more seafood and other items to move the restaurant slightly upmarket — confused regular customers who just wanted the restaurant’s original dishes and heaping portions.

    “The challenge was to not shock the system too harshly. To hang onto the clientele that was existing and that was loyal. They were entrenched in barbecue,” Hildebrand says. “We had to maintain the identity and at the same time change things. We probably needed to rebrand the whole show. Shut it down. Change the name. Change the menu.”

    Still, he's proud of the work he did in the eight months he spent at the restaurant, and he's eager to take on his next challenge.

    "I definitely want to stay in Houston," he says. "We’re home. We’re much happier. The search starts now. You can announce it. I am wildly available."

    Closing Killen’s will leave Ronnie Killen with just five restaurants — three locations of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, Cypress, and Hobby Airport; Killen’s Burgers in Pearland; and Killen’s Steakhouse, which is currently closed for renovations that Ronnie Killen hopes will help it earn a Michelin star (more on that in the weeks to come).

    “It’s just business and timing,” Killen says. “Trust me, it’s very hard. That place means so much to me. It was built with recipes that my grandmother and my godmother made. It was the food I ate as a kid that made me want to become a chef.”

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