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    Food for Thought

    Sometimes, it's more than food: What makes a good restaurant good?

    Marene Gustin
    Dec 8, 2011 | 2:06 pm
    • Oh, and although we don’t eat at Tony’s every week, we do like to hang there forspecial occasions like, you know, it’s Friday, let’s go to Tony’s!
      Photo by James Dean
    • I don’t know why Dad and I like the Phil & Derek’s Restaurant and Wine Bar somuch, but it feels like an extension of home.
      Photo by Barbara Kuntz
    • We love to see other diners and speculate about them. That family of threegenerations who often come to Maria Selma Restaurant when we are there.
      Photo via Maria Selma/Facebook

    Houstonians eat out more than any other folks in America. On average 4.2 times a week.

    I eat out about eight or nine times a week. Sometimes more.

    This food frenzy is partly because of my work (I write about food, have you read my column?) and partly because Dad likes to go out to lunch every day. Every. Day.

    Which is actually a good thing since I work from home and there are days when I would spend the entire 24 hours in my apartment on the phone and the computer if not for being called at 11 a.m. and asked where I want to go for lunch.

    And that’s an interesting question.

    Where do I want to eat? Where do you want to eat?

    What makes a good restaurant, one that you want to go back to again and again? Of course with more than 8,000 choices in Houston, you could go somewhere new for, oh, 8,000 days or so. And there are always new restaurants opening; restaurants that we go to because everyone is talking about them, because we want to see and be seen (or because it’s our job).

    But then after the newness wears off we wind up back at the same old regular joints.

    So why do we go to our favorite spots over and over? Well, I don’t think it’s just about the food.

    #1: Ambience

    Yeah, food is important when you go out to eat, but it’s not the most important thing. I always prefer a restaurant that serves food, but what I’m really looking for is a comfortable setting to have a good conversation and enjoy getting out of the home office. I like a place that has little nooks and crannies where you can feel like you’re not on display in a fish bowl, but still see all the action. I want to be comfortable but not too much so. If I wanted to lie on the couch and eat I could just stay home.

    I always prefer a restaurant that serves food, but what I’m really looking for is a comfortable setting to have a good conversation and enjoy getting out of the home office.

    I don’t know why Dad and I like the Phil & Derek’s Restaurant and Wine Bar so much, but it feels like an extension of home. Sure, the chairs have seen better days, but they are comfy, like your own worn furniture. And our table in the bar is the perfect spot for watching everything that goes on (see #3).

    #2: The Food

    OK, we are going out to eat, so food is kinda important. You can get just about any kind of cuisine in Houston your taste buds desire and my favorite spots range from fancy to plain. I usually like places that serve regional dishes from locally sourced ingredients but occasionally I’ll go for something that is pretty basic.

    No, heck no, not fast food, but, say, Blanco’s Bar & Grill, where the burgers are cooked on a greasy grill and the chili comes from a package. Yeah, It’s not made fresh but they do add chopped white onions and shredded yellow cheese to it so it’s a step up from opening a can of Wolf Brand at home.

    On the other hand, I do love the delicate tortelli di bietola — little pasta pillows stuffed with Swiss chard and goat cheese swimming in sage butter — at Giacomo’s cibo e vino.

    Oh, and although we don’t eat at Tony’s every week, we do like to hang there for special occasions like, you know, it’s Friday, let’s go to Tony’s! Every dish there is a delight but for Dad it’s the fact that chef Grant Gordon (who looks like he’s about 12, a real Doogie Howser culinary genius) can cook a hanger steak to a fraction before burned and make it still taste delicious. Because Dad and I often share an entrée, this is a real plus since I like my meat a shade less than medium rare and he likes his burnt beyond recognition. Any chef that can do a steak well done and still have it retain a succulent flavor gets four stars in my book.

    #3: Entertainment

    No, I do not mean there has to be a live band and Indian dancers to accompany my lunch or dinner. But I do mean there has to be something going on to engage my mind and lend something to the conversation.

    One thing I’ve learned since my octogenarian pop has moved here and we’ve started lunching together is that we really have a lot in common. Not just that we both love bourbon, country music and NCIS reruns, but that we both love to people watch.

    We love to see other diners and speculate about them.

    So we often choose restaurants that have an eclectic crowd. We love to see other diners and speculate about them. That family of three generations who often come to Maria Selma Restaurant when we are there. Grandpa gets a margarita, the mother and daughter drink tea and the soccer-playing grandson has a beer. We always like to see them, almost as if they are extended family. A

    And then there’s the guy with the Buddy Holly glasses who I’m pretty sure is a serial killer we used to see eating and reading the newspaper once a week at another fave spot. We like to make up stories about who they are and what their lives are like.

    #4: Convenience

    Yeah, I know what people say about me: that I have to get shots and a passport to go outside the loop.

    But come on, if I’m heading out for a bite I really don’t want to have to deal with highway traffic and an hour’s drive just to get somewhere that doesn’t even have decent parking. I’ll pick the place I can walk to, valet park at, or get there in five minutes almost every time.

    #5: Great Staff

    They don’t have to scream out “Norm!” when you walk in the door, but it’s nice to be greeted warmly and treated like a rock star/regular.

    I do like it when owners and wait staff know our names and ask how we are and don’t put water on the table that we haven’t asked for, but I also like it when we go to fancy places like Vallone restaurants or La Griglia (a former Vallone eatery so I’m sensing a pattern here) where the staff doesn’t recognize you but treats you like they do. And they don’t sniff because I’m wearing a dress with cowboy boots and Dad is in jeans and a Members Only jacket.

    So, to sum up, eating out isn’t just about the food, it’s about the whole experience. It’s about being comfortable and enjoying a meal with someone you love while experiencing a little bit of the diversity and excitement that is Houston.

    So, feel free to weigh in here. What are your favorite restaurants and why?

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    J.J.'s hot takes

    Texans legend J.J. Watt drops 'controversial' crawfish take on soccer podcast

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 5, 2026 | 4:22 pm
    JJ Watt Men in Blazers
    Courtesy of FIFA World Cup 2026 Houston Host Committee
    J.J. Watt discussed Houston's food scene on Men in Blazers.

    “If you’re checking your watch, I’m on food talk now, so we’re going to be awhile.”

    With that comment, former Houston Texans star and future Pro Football Hall of Famer J.J. Watt launched into an epic tribute to Houston’s dynamic food scene. Speaking with host Roger Bennett on the globally-renown soccer podcast Men in Blazers, Watt spent about 15 minutes introducing the show’s audience to many of the cuisines and restaurants that Houstonians love.

    “When you look at this singular city, at Houston, what is it in your mind that makes it great — that the world is going to see this summer,” Bennett asks at approximately the 1:45 mark.



    “Food,” Watt replies. “Truthfully, we have great, great food. I have always said that Houston is one of the most underrated food cities in the world. People that come here are going to get fatter.”

    Encouraged by Bennett to “go deeper” into the topic, Watt offered more than 20 suggestions for restaurants to try. They included:

    • Breakfast tacos at Island Grill and Pappas Bar-B-Q
    • Barbecue at Killen’s Barbecue
    • Burgers at Becks Prime, The Burger Joint, and Killen’s Burgers
    • Seafood at Pappadeaux

    Watt told an entertaining anecdote about Trill Burgers, the smash burger concept from Houston hip-hop legend Bun B.

    “Trill Burgers, they put something in there that can’t be legal,” Watt quipped. “I’ve talked to Bun B. It’s like crack, okay? He gave me one of those burgers. When I came back from the Ring of Honor at the Texans, they put Trill Burgers in our suite. There were six, and there were 12 people in the suite. I had four of them. Everyone else had to fight over two burgers.”

    Asked about crawfish, Watt dropped an opinion that he acknowledged would be controversial. “You’re not going to like,” he told the 300-person, sold-out crowd.

    “That’s a lot of work. Then they tell you to suck the head. I’ll be honest. Didn’t do a lot for me,” Watt stated. “Look at this [points to himself]. The amount of crawfish you have to break and eat. When they dump it all out, I have to have my own 9-foot table. Nobody has the time to break that many crawfish open and suck the heads on every one.”

    Watt appeared on the show as part of its Houston episode that marked 99 days until the start of the 2026 FIFA World Cup. Houston Rockets icon and Basketball Hall of Famers Hakeem Olajuwon also appeared on the show, which was recorded at Rice University.

    Houston will host seven matches from June 14 - July 4, including five in the group stage and one each in the round of 32 and the round of 16. Find more details about the tournament and local celebrations at the official FIFA World Cup 2026 Houston Host Committee website.

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