Foodie News

Top Chef wows diners at Pesce

Tiffany Derry wowed a crowd at Pesce during a special five-course collaborationwith Pesce's Mark Holley.
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Yellow fin tuna ribbons with avocado and ginger gelee, chile oil
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Roasted baby beet salad with goat cheese mousse, pumpkin seeds and mache
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Branzino and butternut squash ravioli
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Skate with barbacoa in a roasted tomatillo broth
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Pineapple upside down cake with caramel cardamom ice cream
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Courses were paired with wines by Dry Creek Vineyards.
Photo by Sarah Rufca

Beaumont-native Tiffany Derry may be working in Dallas now, but before she was a Top Chef All-Star and fan favorite, Derry was a junior sous chef at Houston's Pesce while working on her culinary degree from the Art Institute of Houston.

Derry headed back to H-town on Thursday to create a one-of-a kind tasting menu at Pesce with executive chef Mark Holley. Through five courses (paired with wines from Dry Creek Vineyard), diners got a taste of her culinary sensibilities — simple presentations that are big on flavor — as well as her infectious personality.

Dinner opened with ribbons of yellow fin tuna draped over an avocado and ginger gelee with a hint of chile oil. The flavors were bold and came together in unexpected ways, while never overshadowing the raw, tangy goodness of the tuna.

The roasted baby beet salad was something of a wonder — I'm generally not a fan of either beet or pumpkin seeds, two of the main ingredients along with goat cheese mousse and mache. But in combination, the beets played nicely with the more earthy pumpkin for a very enjoyable bite. My only disappointment was a lack of personality in the cheese — I thought creme fraiche would have been a more spirited choice.

The third course, branzino with an ever-so-slightly-crispy skin, was fresh, perfectly cooked and truly delicious. It was only equaled by the butternut squash ravioli served alongside — Derry laughed that the pasta had taken her all day — but with a subtle flavor that melted in your mouth.

The true standout of the evening was a skate dish wrapped around a center of barbacoa. Both the dish and the meat were tender and the flavors together were exceptional. The only regret? No bread or other vehicle to dip into the broth.

Finishing with a sweetly restrained pineapple upside down cake and caramel cardamom ice cream, Derry talked about her appreciation for Pesce and all the opportunities she's had since working in that kitchen. And if her food is any indication, the title of Top Chef should never be taken likely — Ms. Derry has some serious skills.

How does she do on Top Chef All-Stars? She wouldn't say, but she did give us a hint.

"It's intense," Derry said, "but I'm a fighter, so stay tuned."

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where there's smoke

Houston's only Michelin-recognized Tex-Mex restaurant now open in Bellaire

Photo by Duc Hoang

Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

It didn’t take Sambrook Hospitality Group long to turn Mandito’s into Candente. First announced in September, the restaurant’s second location officially opens today, Monday, December 22, at 5101 Bellaire Blvd.

Speaking on a November episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Sambrooks Hospitality founder Michael Sambrooks explained that, as a Bellaire resident, he saw an opportunity to open a restaurant close to home.

“It was a combination of, this location became available, and we liked the market. I think Bellaire is underserved. As far as Tex-Mex options, I think it’s limited,” he says. “We always struggle with where’s somewhere we can grab a bite that’s five minutes away as opposed to driving to another part of town. I think Candente is that solution. I think it’s going to be pretty well received.”

In terms of design, the restaurant replicates many of the same elements as the original Montrose location that opened in 2019, such as its copper-topped tables and yellow, orange, and maroon accents. Diners will note a mural by local artist Franky Cardona along one wall. Overall, the restaurant seats 125 in its dining room, 10 at its bar, and 24 on an outdoor patio.

While the location is new, the menu is the same. That means the same wood-fired fajitas, brisket enchiladas, nachos, birria tacos, and other fare that helped it achieve a “Recommended” designation in the Michelin Guide for Texas — the only Tex-Mex restaurant in Houston to make the prestigious guide. Pair them with margaritas (both shaken and frozen), as well as agave-based cocktails such as the paloma and ranch water, beers, and non-alcoholic options.

Sambrooks Hospitality also operates The Pit Room, the barbecue joint with locations in Montrose and Memorial City that earned a Bib Gourmand designation.

“It’s a privilege to open in Bellaire and get to know and serve a new clientele,” Sambrooks said in a statement. “We’re excited to introduce our style of authentic, handcrafted Tex-Mex that has made us a Houston dining staple.”

Candente will be open for lunch and dinner during the week beginning at 11 am. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday beginning at 10 am.

Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

Photo by Duc Hoang

Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

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