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    Food for Thought

    The final days of a Houston institution: Sad goodbye lures crowds — for a last burger and beer

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Nov 30, 2013 | 5:54 am

    The final days of Blanco’s Bar & Grill were crazy good and they reminded me of why I will miss this place.

    I didn’t go at night for the bands and I didn’t really go for the food. It was always about the ambiance and the friends. Over the years as we got to know the staff and the regular lunch crowd, people we would say hi to and buy beers for and vice versa.

    For more than 30 years Blanco’s was a mainstay of the River Oaks area, the dusty little wood frame honky tonk known for boot scootin’ and burgers in the shadow of high rises and million-dollar properties. The one-story blue building began life more than four decades ago as a day care center before morphing into a bar called Hondo’s. Then Barry E. DeBakey, son of the late, great heart surgeon Michael DeBakey, bought the business and changed the name to Blanco’s.

    Blanco’s was a mainstay of the River Oaks area, the dusty little wood frame honky tonk known for boot scootin’ and burgers in the shadow of high rises and million-dollar properties.

    When he died in 2007 he left the business to manager Karin Barnes and her son who continued serving up daily specials like the meatloaf and mashed potatoes on Tuesday and booking country acts like Gary P. Nunn, Cory Morrow, Jake Hooker, Chris Wall and Bobby Flores.

    Decorated with stuffed wildlife, including a giant shaggy bison and deer heads that often were festooned with beer can tabs and little hats or wax lips, Blanco’s was unlike any other establishment in Houston. It harkens back to the old days in Texas when you could find honky tonks and rustic ice houses along farm-to-market roads where neighbors hung out drinking beer during the day and bands played at night.

    It was also a popular hangout for rodeo committees who often celebrated there when new chairs were named. They would cut the brims off their western hats and nail the crowns to the walls.

    But the land the building sits on was sold by the owners last January to the nearby St. John's school and both Blanco’s and the River Oaks Plant House, with its iconic topiaries, had to go. For Blanco’s the last day of regular service was Friday.

    Holding Vigil

    For about two weeks before that date the place had been packed, as in if you didn’t get there when the kitchen opened at 11 a.m. good luck getting a table. On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving there was a line out the door of people waiting for a spot so they could get their final Blanco burgers and beer. The daytime staff — Barnes, bartender Jerri Huston and flamboyantly funny Raul Anaya — were too busy running their feet off to be too depressed.

    As we left there were people taking photos off the walls, trying to salvage a little bit of Houston history.

    Barnes quipped that she didn’t know what she would do after the place closed because she was too busy to think about it.

    On the final day, it wasn’t packed at lunch. Just a couple of tables of regulars. We sat and drank and ordered burgers, except for the one person in our group who wanted the Friday fried seafood platter. Only they had already run out of oysters and shrimp so it was just fried catfish.

    Then the KPRC Ch. 2 crew showed up and Jennifer Olin, a former co-worker of mine at KMOL-TV in San Antonio, quipped, “You know it’s over when the news media shows up.”

    And so it was.

    As we left there were people taking photos off the walls, trying to salvage a little bit of Houston history. On this Saturday, there will be a final blowout with a cash bar and potluck meals that folks bring in as well as an auction of the remaining stuff.

    I wonder if anyone will get the stuffed bison.

    Adios Blanco’s.

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    wine guy Wednesday

    Chris Shepherd recommends more wines for Thanksgiving, plus a can't-miss meal

    Chris Shepherd
    Nov 12, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Montrose Cheese and Wine Thanksgiving 4-pack
    Photo by Zach Horst
    Find these four wines at Montrose Cheese & Wine.

    I love a great wine event, especially when it’s a winery that I truly love. This one is a true banger.

    On Wednesday, November 19, the team at The Marigold Club will be hosting Scribe Winery owner Andrew Mariani. Scribe has redefined the wine experience in Sonoma, where the breathtaking hacienda estate looks out over the picturesque vineyards and hills of lower Sonoma Valley.

    For one evening only, they will be be bringing an exceptional lineup of wines featuring limited production wines rarely seen outside the winery, new releases that will be making their Houston debut, and a few of their brilliant flagship wines that show their distinctive style.

    We personally love their wines like the Sylvaner which is so bright and clean. The Chardonnays show such distinctive vineyard characteristics and their Pinot Noirs just scream sunshine! They have such an exciting line up that whatever they are pouring is going to hit perfectly with the menu. I know that the culinary team has got this menu on lock, because Scribe makes some of the most food-friendly wines I’ve ever had. I also got a sneak peak at the menu and it looks amazing!

    This, in fact, is a tasting that Lindsey and I must do every time we are out there. Plus, we are club members, so to say this is a special dinner is an understatement. It’s been a hard few weeks and you deserve to treat yourself before the holiday season kicks off.

    Get your tickets here ($295)!

    More Thanksgiving Day wine picks

    We should discuss some more Turkey Day wines while we are at it. Remember that St Joseph Blanc we talked about over at Houston Wine Merchant last week? Well, you guys went and bought all of it, so I spoke with June Rodil, who is one of Houston’s seven master sommeliers, about wines at Montrose Cheese & Wine for this special day.

    Hold on to your cranberry sauce, because we are going deep!

    From June:
    This is our Thanksgiving pack and can be purchased as a 4 pack or individually!

    Domaine du Père Caboche Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Rhone Valley, France, 2023
    Beautiful bright color with light yellow and green reflections. The nose is very complex and pretty with white flowers, peach, and ginger. This wine is unmistakably delicious, with notes of fresh pear at the end. The mouth is smooth and lush with nice aromatics and light peppered notes.

    Tribute to Grace, Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard, California, Grenache Rosé, 2024
    Winemaker Angela Osborne connects deeply with this single vineyard old-vine Grenache grown at 3,200 feet and uses biodynamic principles to convert the energy of the land into this graceful (no pun intended) Rosé. Angela foot treads the whole-cluster fruit before fermentation to extract color for this Rosé. With this bottle, you can expect a palate packed with delicate floral and stone fruit flavors with bright acidity and an herbal anise-tinged finish.

    Claus Preisinger 'Puszta Libre' Burgenland, Austria, 2023
    A wild-yet-lively and very drinkable red wine blend from Burgenland, Austria that's made from Saint Laurent and Zweigelt. Delicate tannins and a vibrant red and black berried fruit character make this an excellent wine for the table. Drinks well with a slight chill.

    Gregoletto, Treviso Sui Lieviti Prosecco, Veneto, Italy, 2023
    Naturally made Prosecco, made by refermenting in bottle without disgorgement. It has the slight cloudiness of a pet-nat with bracingly pure, clean flavors. It is crafted via sustainable, traditional practices in the hilly epicenter of the vast Prosecco zone, and that great terroir shines through with clarity in each mouthwatering sip. You’ll see that the Gregoletto family is in a league all their own when it comes to old-school Italian farmer fizz.

    All of these for $125. That is a damn fine price for this.

    June also reminded me that the annual Beaujolais release is set for November 20 and how this is perfect wine for Thanksgiving. I love Cru Beaujolais, and Montrose Cheese & Wine has put together a 12-pack for the season.

    More from June:
    We have a 12 pack of all the Crus of Beaujolais and then some on presale for Beaujo Day on Nov 20! Tour de Beaujolais, $395 (Par 12)

    Montrose Cheese and Wine Thanksgiving 4-pack

    Photo by Zach Horst

    Find these four wines at Montrose Cheese & Wine.

    Juicy, opulent, palate wetting, and diverse, the array of Beaujolais we’ve put together will provide an immaculate pairing alongside Thanksgiving dinner and festivities alike. Here at Montrose Cheese & Wine, we have a proclivity to the delectable array of expressions based in Beaujolais; you deserve to taste through the entirety of what Beaujolais has to offer as well!

    As a region, Beaujolais is divided into 10 different departments, titled crus, shown by a declaration of which cru on the face of the label. Each of these crus have a unique expression and allow a different part of the delicious gamay grape to shine, from the aromatic nature of Fleurie to the bold presence of Moulin-à-Vent. We’ve put together a selection of 10 bottles, one from each of the 10 crus, plus a Beaujolais Nouveau and Beaujolais-Village, to make a full 12 bottle case!

    Ten crus, North to South: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly

    Who wants to take the tour with me? I love all of this, and you should add this to that game plan I wrote about in last week’s column. One stop shop is what I’m talking about. Wine dinners, Turkey Day packs, and a tour of Cru Beaujolais?

    Goodnight is right!

    Have fun this Thanksgiving and remember to email me if you have any questions!!!

    ----

    Need any other Thanksgiving advice? Send Chris an email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $15 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2 or on YouTube.

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