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Foodie News

Houston Chef's Table: Mockingbird Bistro's John Sheely treasures homemadeMexican & cool Connie's Seafood

Sarah Rufca
Nov 1, 2010 | 10:09 am

No one knows Houston restaurants better than the people who run them, own them, and work in the kitchens. In this continuing series, CultureMap is asking our favorite foodie personalities around town where they go for great eats when they're not working.

If the Texas way of doing things is big, loud and bombastic, John Sheely has been working from a decidedly different playbook since opening Mockingbird Bistro back in 2002. With classic, subtle flavors, a spectacular wine list and an overwhelming sense of quiet excellence, he's won the loyalty of his River Oaks-area neighbors.

Sheely tells CultureMap how a meal at home is often his special occasion, the casual spot he hits for fish and why he doesn't travel for desserts.

Restaurant for a special occasion: My wife cooks awesome Mexican food. After so many years in the business it's nice to stay in and eat, and we have a 2-year-old so we have a lot of meals at home.

Restaurant to take out-of-towners to: I would take them to Da Marco or Mark's American Cuisine. Da Marco has some of the best Italian food in the city and Mark's is always great food, great service, beautiful room and great atmosphere.

For something casual I'd go to Connie's Seafood on Airline. It's Mexican, the kind of place where you pick your fish and they cook it up for you, and they have Chinese items too, fried rice and everything — it's really cool.

Favorite meal: I like the smoked salmon at Houston's. They smoke it in-house and it's a nice half-piece of salmon and not traditional, they do it in the oven with a great little remoulade.

Breakfast/Brunch favorite: I like Daily Review, he's got a great brunch. And Hugo's and Backstreet Cafe are always good.

Dessert: I can't think of anything ... I'm kinda partial to my own desserts, actually.

Other articles in the Houston Chef's Table series:

Lee Ellis loves Les Givral

Sugar hooker Rebecca Masson can't get enough of Catalan's Cake

Beachy L.J. Wiley digs the special occasion simple flavors at Dos Brisas

David Grossman goes for Vic & Anthony's crab cake, Yelapa late nights & some Bootsie

Jeramie Robison appreciates Kata Robata's sushi, Beaver's bangin' meatloaf & foodie chicks

Tony Mandola finds breakfast magic at Sunrise Taquitos

Philippe Schmit craves a Picnic romance & Stella Sola's French toast

Benjy Levit is torn between Indika's salads and Hank's Ice Cream

Flora & Muse's David Luna likes to hang with his fishing buddy and hit the Blue Nile

Asian Bistro's Gigi Huang seeks out spicy fried chicken at a Dive

Hugo Ortega believes in a Goode tradition

Soma Sushi's Jason Hauck is anti-brunch, pro-Feast

Jenni Tran-Weaver can't get enough hot pot

Bistro Alex's Juan Carlos Gonzalez finds a great $1.50 meal & giant key lime pie

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What's Eric Eating Episodes 569 and 570

Meet the man behind Houston's affordable new Chinese restaurant

CultureMap Staff
Jul 17, 2026 | 4:57 pm
Fortune Eight restaurant food spread
Photo by Clay Grier
Fortune Eight's menu includes dishes such beef with broccoli and mapo tofu.

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler talks to Allen Lin about Fortune Eight, his recently opened Chinese restaurant on Washington Avenue.



The conversation begins with Lin explaining how Covid restrictions and political turmoil in Hong Kong prompted him to close his four restaurants and relocate to Texas. Whereas his Hong Kong restaurants were full service, Fortune Eight is an affordable, fast casual concept.

“If I could do Chinese restaurants all over again, how could I streamline it so I wouldn’t have to be faced with so many inconsistencies in how we produce the food. I started looking at Chinese restaurants across America. Why is there only one restaurant that’s been able to do it on a wide basis? It’s Panda Express,” Lin says.

“I wondered if I could modernize Chinese food but make it with better ingredients. I wanted to create something that’s comfortable and familiar, but I want to elevate it a bit to make it taste better. You don’t feel so bloated and greasy afterwards. That’s what we’ve tried to focus and lean in on to create that consistency and taste.”

Towards that end, Fortune Eight uses automated cooking tools to saute the meats and vegetables in some of its dishes. Not only do these methods help Lin achieve the consistency he’s aiming for, they allow him to charge almost fast food level prices for Fortune Eight’s dishes. Diners can expect to pay about $13 for an entree, drink, and tax.

The tidy menu includes a greatest hits-style menu of Chinese and Chinese American fare, including Mongolian beef, beef with broccoli, walnut shrimp, sauteed green beans, chow mein, and, of course, General Tso’s chicken.

Listen to the full episode to hear more about Lin’s time in China. He also discusses his plans for marketing the restaurant and adding additional locations.

In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Felice Sloan discuss the news of the week. Their topics include chef Justin Yu’s plans to open House of Louie in Montrose, Barnaby’s Cafe opening a new location in Garden Oaks, and Uptown Italian restaurant Tavola closing just shy of its three-year anniversary.



In the restaurant of the week segment, Sloan and Sandler share first impressions of Galaxy Pizza, chef Anthony Calleo’s neighborhood pizzeria in Spring. Both of them find a lot to like about the casual eatery, including its crispy crust and plentiful toppings.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

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