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    Food for Thought

    The return of the Sunday supper

    Marene Gustin
    Nov 11, 2009 | 10:00 am
    • Frank's Chop House's maple-brined pork chop
    • The ultimate comfort food: Benjy's chocolate cake...with ice cream, of course
    • Southern fried chicken for supper......or dinner?
    • Supper time at RDG + Bar Annie
    • Benjy Levit of Benjy's restaurants

    A long time ago, when I was very, very young, we could sometimes only afford meat once a week. It would be served up on Sundays.

    No, I didn’t grow up during the Depression; we just didn’t have a lot of money.

    So, as the weekend wore down and we faced another Monday and a week of work or school, mom — whose culinary cachet was pretty much limited to baking cakes and opening cans — would buy a couple of pounds of chicken and whip up her one tried and true specialty: Southern fried chicken.

    Crispy, golden and juicy on the inside, there was something so warm and comforting about that chicken, something so special about those Sunday suppers.

    Before you start in on the "supper" vs. "dinner" debate, I like saying Sunday supper because of the lovely alliteration and because that’s what we called it.

    Mom and her people were from the South where dinner was the main meal of the day, be it early or late. Holiday meals were dinners but Sunday’s main meal was always supper.

    That’s just the way it was. If you want to argue, go find a forum.

    Those family Sunday suppers are back in vogue — if not at home then certainly at a number of Houston restaurants.

    Sundays have traditionally been dead days for local eateries, except for those offering Sunday brunch —and there are a lot of them around — but they usually shut down by mid-afternoon.

    Now, however, some places are opening between 5 and 9 p.m. to offer family-style meals for folks looking for that comfort meal without the kitchen time and cleanup. Yes, it’s a way to increase sales during this stagnant economy, but still there’s something soothing about having an early Sunday meal of old-fashioned food.

    The restaurants seem just as conflicted about whether to call that Sunday meal "supper" or "dinner." Some folks think it’s a regional thing, or rural vs. city talk, but I'm sticking with Sunday supper. My definition requires only a family-style setting and no molecular gastronomy experiments allowed.

    Here are some of my favorites:

    • Frank’s Chop House recently opened for lunch and dinner (yes, they say dinner) on Sundays with the regular menu of stick-to-your-ribs Texas treats like maple-brined double-bone pork chops and chopped sirloin steak with mashed potatoes and Frank Capritto’s homegrown tomatoes.
    • At the new and ultra-trendy RDG + Bar Annie, it’s also Sunday dinner (we need to talk to Robert del Grande about changing it to supper) from 5-9:00 p.m.
    • Known for its Sunday blues brunch, House of Blues has also recently opened for Sunday evenings, offering a Cajun comfort menu of fried or smothered chicken, fried pork chops and fried catfish with fried okra, among other menu items. Are we sensing a fried trend here? At least HOB wisely stays out of the supper/dinner fray by labeling the new menu Soul Kitchen Sundays.
    • At both benjy’s locations (Rice Village and Washington Ave.), owner Benjy Levitt endears himself to us by actually calling it Sunday super. The pre-fixe menu changes monthly but so far has included such entrees as bourbon molasses pork ribs with warm potato salad and fried chicken (not just like mom’s but pretty darned close) along with salad and cake. I dropped in awhile back for a meal of buffalo meat loaf (the southern style ground meat dish, not Texan Michael Aday), with garlic-mashed potatoes, lots of greens and a severely decadent chocolate cake. For under $20 it was a heck of a meal, pretty much like the ones you might have had at your grandma’s house on Sunday after church.

    Just like mom and grandma, benjy's serves up big portions, which make a really nice doggie bag. And a great cold meatloaf and mashed potato sandwich come Monday.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    designed for all occasions

    New restaurant's Astrodome-inspired design is 'unlike anything in Houston'

    Emily Cotton
    May 1, 2026 | 2:05 pm
    Kirkwood restaurant interior
    Photo by Leonid Furmansky
    Kirkwood's design includes a recreation of the Astrodome's ceiling.

    Legendary Houstonian Mac Haik has managed to fit many lives into his impressive 80 years. Haik, whose empire of car dealerships made him a household name, played no small part in the development of the city’s booming west side. Prior to that, at just 22-years-old, Haik made history with the Houston Oilers as the first person to catch a touchdown pass in the Astrodome.

    His latest venture — the glitzy Kirkwood restaurant — pays homage to the Energy Corridor, a storied football career, and the people who helped him along the way.

    While the Mac Haik Restaurant Group has focused on franchises such as breakfast concept First Watch, Kirkwood is its debut signature restaurant concept. The restaurant’s kitchen is led by executive chef Stephen Chiang, who guests will see quite a lot of thanks to the copper-clad, open-concept kitchen that includes a custom copper hood.

    Located at the base of Energy Tower II at 11720 Katy Freeway, MHRG designed Kirkwood to host a range of experiences. When it opens on Monday, May 11, Kirkwood is intended to become a go-to spot for lunch meetings, a chic spot for group dinners and celebrations, and a cozy place to share a romantic evening near the double-sided, all-seasons fireplace, among other occasions.

    It takes a keen eye and majorly-sharp editing skills to create a space that can perform so many different tasks. It’s unusual for a space that highlights a career in sports to read as elegant and refined, but designer Gin Braverman has done just that. Gin Design Group is the firm behind many of the best hospitality designs in Houston — including Eunice, Haii Keii, and ChòpnBlọk — and Kirkwood is no exception.

    “We were going for a classic clubhouse vibe with a Vegas layer of glitz — definitely a Vegas ‘wow factor,’” Braverman tells CultureMap. “It’s going to be a draw for everyone. You can rent out the sunroom as well as the private dining room, so that will be a big draw. There is a bar cart going around and table side features. There are so many different experiences to be had in the space. It’s going to hit all the boxes.”

    The 242-seat restaurant covers almost 7,000 square feet separated into distinctive spaces: a 154-seat main dining area; 16-seat private Frances Room, named after Haik’s mother; and a 1,900-square-foot sunroom, named the Sunny Room after Haik’s wife, with seating for 72 centered around a curved, double-sided fireplace.

    The restaurant’s symbol, a magnolia, is a nod to Haik’s home state of Mississippi. One impressive magnolia sighting belongs to the patinated-copper front doors inlaid with the flowers and accentuated by leather door pulls. Prior to entering, diners pass through a gallery of wall display cases with Mac Haik memorabilia.

    In the rotunda, customers are greeted from above by a mirrored glass replica of the ceiling of the Houston Astrodome, created by the artisans at Houston-based design and fabrication firm Rootlab. Broken stone mosaic floor tiles add playful movement and patter to the space. Tactile installations like felt wallcoverings by Phillip Jeffries and velvet draperies keep the space feeling warm and inviting amid all the glass and stone.

    The lounge occupies a raised platform with an artisan parquet floor and a burled-wood covered ceiling featuring beautifully-placed copper light fixtures by Tom Dixon, custom sofas, a custom rug, and custom tables.

    An inviting, oversized wraparound bar beckons diners to mingle beneath a tiered canopy, composed of burled walnut, which is also carried through to the bar’s facade, bullnose trim, and integrated foot rail. A marble countertop completes the bar, while the stone is repeated in the custom tables. Custom barstools take inspiration from the seats of Mac’s now vintage Porsche.

    Illuminated cove lighting anchors the bar space, with a red-tinted mirror installed behind the bar shelving and the liquor lockers on the end caps. The shelving is highlighted by custom LED racetrack lighting. Custom copper and alabaster bar lamps complete the space.

    Kirkwood’s booths have been upholstered with alternating leather and teal velvet fabrics with a copper-tinted toe-kick for a bit of glam. Custom arched lighting — crossing above each booth — is comprised of a copper finish structure, alabaster lenses, and copper chain accents.

    The central dining and exposition kitchen space is a framed with burled wood-clad banquettes with integrated planters. Broken stone mosaic floor tiles dance beneath the custom large-scale chandelier that features inverted alabaster and copper arches and a wood surround with integrated cove lighting.

    The private dining room features rich leather wall panelings, a custom leather buffet table, and a metallic gold plaster ceiling with hand-painted magnolia detailing.

    Lastly, the 1,400-square-foot sunroom features a knockout fireplace with an integrated overhead planter. Custom light columns with copper metal mesh flank the fireplace. An impressive glass-and-metal bar canopy attaches to the back bar fireplace.

    The restaurant’s art collection further enriches the space, with original works by English artist Paul Dove displayed throughout. In the private dining room, an original painting by Austin-based artist Lucy MacQueen offers a more personal note, interpreting “The Grove” at Haik’s alma mater, Ole Miss. The piece also serves as a quiet tribute to his mother, Frances Jordan, who was recently honored with a memorial wall at the iconic site. Artist Melissa Leandro contributed a vibrantly embroidered interpretation of the magnolia motifs to the back wall of the sunroom.

    Overall, Braverman is thrilled with the design of Kirkwood. So, which spot is her favorite?

    “The sunroom,” she says. “That circular bar with the column lamps and fireplace with the skylight are unlike anything else in Houston.”

    Kirkwood restaurant interior

    Photo by Leonid Furmansky

    Kirkwood's design includes a recreation of the Astrodome's ceiling.

    anderson
    news/restaurants-bars

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