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    au revoir

    Memorial-area French brasserie quietly closes after 5 years

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 27, 2025 | 9:42 am
    White Elm Cafe front entrance

    White Elm Brasserie has closed.

    Photo by Shannon O'Hara

    A Memorial-area French restaurant has quietly served its last meal. White Elm Brasserie closed after service on Sunday, January 26, co-owner Christopher “Chico” Ramirez tells CultureMap.

    Ramirez cited a downturn in business as the primary reason for the decision to close the restaurant. White Elm’s customer counts declined after both the derecho and Hurricane Beryl, including a more than 30-percent decline during Houston Restaurant Weeks, Ramirez said. The slow sales continued into the usually busy holiday season, when only one group chose the restaurant for a holiday party — down from eight in 2023. With the restaurant’s lease expiring in February, Ramirez says that he and his wife made the difficult decision to move on.

    First opened in 2020 as White Elm Café Bakery, the restaurant united Ramirez — a hospitality veteran whose resume includes both The Boot and Field & Tides — with Chez Nous owners Stacy and Scott Simonson. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant combined an extensive selection of pastries made in-house with a French and Mediterranean-inspired menu from chef Stacy Simonson. In 2022, the restaurant changed its name to White Elm Brasserie as it moved to a slightly more upscale experience that included full service and cocktails.

    While Ramirez will miss his time in the Memorial area, he’s already working on his next project, a Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurant called Johnny Rita’s that’s coming to the north Houston neighborhood of Lindale Park later this year. White Elm chef de cuisine Jesus Salinas will lead the kitchen. Expect more details as its opening becomes more imminent later this year.

    French-inspired restaurant have had tough luck in Houston over the past several months. Last May, Benjy Levit shuttered his short-lived French concept Eau Tour and replaced it with Italian concept Milton's. In September, Philippe Schmit quietly closed his French bistro PS-21 after approximately a year-and-a-half in business.

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    one night only

    Award-winning NYC chefs join Houston rising star for pop-up dinner

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 10, 2025 | 4:45 pm
    Barbacana restaurant interior
    Courtesy of Barbacana
    Barbacana will host the special dinner on July 22.

    One of Houston’s rising star chefs is teaming up with two of his mentors for a one-night-only experience. New York chefs Fabián von Hauske-Valtierra and Jeremiah Stone are coming to downtown restaurant Barbacana on Tuesday, July 22 for a collaboration dinner with chef-owner Christian Hernandez.


      
     
     
     
     
     
     
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    A post shared by Barbacana Restaurant (@barbacanahtx)


    Stone and von Hauske-Valtierra earned a Michelin star and a Food & Wine Best New Chef award for their New York City restaurant Contra. First opened in 2013, Contra served an affordable tasting menu of dishes that could change from night to night based on available ingredients. It closed in 2023. The chefs opened a new concept called Bar Contra in 2024.

    Hernandez worked at Contra as a line cook in 2016 and 2017, which is when it first earned a Michelin star. He tells CultureMap that he turned down an offer from Eleven Madison Park, then considered one of the best restaurants in America, to cook at the smaller, more innovative Contra.

    “It really shaped everything I did afterwards,” Hernandez tells CultureMap. “Their level of creativity, their confidence and comfort with what they do — we’d change the menu every couple of days. It showed me a lot of what it takes to perform on that level consistently.”

    For the collaboration dinner, Stone and von Hauske-Valtierra will prepare three dishes alongside three dishes from Hernandez and the Barbacana team. Even though the dinner is only a couple of weeks away, Hernandez hasn’t finalized the menu yet. The plan is to shop for ingredients the day before and let them dictate what’s served.

    One possibility is a dish Hernandez is testing that’s inspired by his time at Contra. It’s a tuna crudo with seasonal melson and lacto-fermented blackberry consomme.

    “Two or three elements, simple plating — as I’ve been working on this tuna dish, I’ve been thinking about them,” he says.

    Hernandez opened Barbacana in late 2024. Located near Market Square in downtown Houston, it takes inspiration from Houston’s immigrant traditions, filtered through the chef’s work at fine dining restaurants such as Oxheart, March, and Contra.

    The six-course dinner is priced at $200 with an optional, $100 wine pairings. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

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