Foodie News

Does Esquire need Tex-Mex lessons? Magazine mixes up Houston's El Rey & El Real

Photo via Esquire.com
El Rey
Photo via DowntownHouston.org
El Real
Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau

Texas' representative for Esquire's Best New Restaurants 2011 feature is Austin's Congress, which got props from John Mariani for bringing the capital the kind of Texas-focused steakhouse that Rick Perry can brag about and for employing a waif-like blond hostess who raises chicken.

Then again, we have to take the picks with a grain of salt — not just because Houston was snubbed from the big categories, but because the writers can't even keep our Tex-Mex faves straight.

The list of "Other New Restaurants Not to Miss" included Houston's El Rey alongside spaces like Lucia in Dallas, Chicago's The Girl and the Goat and Husk in Charleston. Who would have thought Houston's mini-chain of low-frills Cuban/Mexican joints with kick-ass tacos would be so esteemed? Except that El Rey isn't exactly new — it's been around for 14 years — and it doesn't serve tacos al carbon, which the article names as the "best dish."

It looks like Mariani was actually talking about the new El Real Tex-Mex. I'm not sure how owners Bryan Caswell, Robb Walsh and Bill Floyd should take the honor. On one hand, Esquire says the trio succeeded at doing Tex-Mex better than anyone in Houston. On the other, it can't even remember the right name.

In Esquire's defense, navigating Houston Tex-Mex can be tricky. I can explain the difference between Ninfa's and Ninfa's on Navigation until I'm blue in the face, but I have a nasty habit of mixing up El Pueblito Patio, El Patio and El Tiempo (and it doesn't help that two of them are on Richmond Ave).

Do you ever confuse El Rey with El Real? What's your biggest Houston restaurant mix-up? And do you think Esquire is uninformed or just sloppy for picking the wrong place?

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street food inspired

Veteran chef opens affordable new Thai restaurant in West Houston

A new restaurant serving Thai street food is opening in the Westchase District. Osha Thai Kitchen will begin serving customers on Tuesday, December 10.

Located in the West on West development (12230 Westheimer Rd.), Osha Thai Kitchen is the latest project from Saranya Danvetnukroh, who owns Nua Thai in downtown Houston. Named for the Thai word that means “delicious,” the restaurant takes inspiration from dishes served in street markets in different regions of Thailand as well as some items for those seeking more familiar flavors.

Meals at Osha could start with items such as crispy spring rolls, crab rangoon, or Thai chicken wings. Three papaya salads — traditional Thai, one with salted egg, and another that’s Lao style with salted crab — join chicken larb in the salads section.

Notably, Osha makes all of its noodles in-house. They’re utilized in dishes such as pad Thai, pad see ew, and pad woo sen. The restaurant also makes its curries in-house. They include red curry, green curry, and panang curry.

Part of Osha’s appeal will be its affordable prices. Only two entrees, crab fried rice and whole fried red snapper, cost more than $20.

Danvetnukroh has recruited sous chef Afridi Zama to lead the kitchen. His resume includes time with Pappas restaurant and at The Nicolette, a restaurant in Lubbock that earned a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination in 2022.

“This project is a culmination of dedication to our craft and creativity to elevate Thai cuisine,”

Danvetnukroh said in a statement. “It’s an homage to our roots and a celebration of our heritage in the modern age.”

West on West is home to number of food-related business. Its anchored by a 99 Ranch grocery store and includes restaurants such as cake bakery Lady M and Tokyo-based ramen shop Tsujita Artisan Noodle.

Photo by Becca Wright

Osha Thai Kitchen opens December 10.

openings news-you-can-eat osha thai kitchen