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    What's Eric Eating Episode 160

    An insightful chat with Indigo's Jonny Rhodes, plus a first taste of Houston's most exciting new restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 3, 2020 | 1:10 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Jonny Rhodes joins CultureMap food editor to discuss his restaurant; Indigo, his grocery store; Broham Fine Soul Food & Groceries; and its supporting farm, Food Fight Farms.

    Since Rhodes' last appearance on the show in January 2019, he's earned wide acclaim, including a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination, best new restaurant awards from the likes of Food & Wine and GQ, and a spot on Time's list of the World's Greatest Places for 2019. Despite all that success, he's closing Indigo in 2021 to grow Broham.

    Rhodes offers new details about his aspirations for the project, including his goal to expand the farm to 100 acres and Broham to 25 locations over the next 10 years. Sandler asks the chef about his decision to shift from a restaurant to a grocery store.

    "That was always the plan," Rhodes says. "I told everybody it was a stepping stone for more sustainability and a project that could be more long term. Everyone in our community doesn't have the ability to pay $125. So I use my customer base as a platform so that I can create something much larger. When I first opened up, I didn't have the capacity to take on the project I'm doing now."

    The interview offers a number of other insights such as how Rhodes sees his role in light of the nationwide calls for racial justice sparked by the killing of George Floyd and what diners can expect from Indigo in its final year of service. Rhodes also provides details about the sort of fruit and product he intends to grow and when the farm will start producing.

    Prior to the interview, co-hosts Matt Harris and Felice Sloan join Sandler to discuss the news of the week. For their first topic, the trio reflect on the closing of burger-chan's location in Greenway Plaza and discuss where they'll satsify their burger cravings until its Galleria-area location opens next year. Sloan and Harris cite La Lucha, while Sandler mentions Montrose staple Brasil.

    For their second topic, they reflect on Chris Shepherd's recent Instagram post that criticized an influencer who offered to trade free food for the ever-elusive "exposure." Sandler and Sloan acknowledge that influencers have a role to play in the food community, but that a blind pitch to one of Houston's most well known chefs reflects poorly on their community.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, the trio share first impressions of Bludorn, the exciting new restaurant from chef Aaron Bludorn and his wife Victoria Pappas Bludorn. Given Bludorn's pedigree as the former executive chef of New York's Café Boulud, its overall ambition, and the quality of their meal, Sandler dubs it the most significant new restaurant to open in Houston this year.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Chef Jonny Rhodes is this week's guest.

    StarChefs Jonny Rhodes Indigo ash-aged potatoes
    Courtesy of StarChefs
    Chef Jonny Rhodes is this week's guest.
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    what's next for chef sunny

    Exclusive: Outspoken Houston sushi chef sounds off on ghost kitchen pivot

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 3, 2026 | 4:13 pm
    Sunny Bertsch Chefs Bowls Three Fish Bowls
    Courtesy of Sunny Bertsch
    Chef Sunny Bertsch recently closed Kaisen Sushi.

    Chef Sunny Bertsch is moving on from his embattled ghost kitchen concept. On Sunday, August 30, he closed Kaisen Sushi and will soon replace it with two more affordable concepts.

    Like Kaisen, the ghost kitchen sushi restaurant that earned a Best New Restaurant nomination in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, Bertsch's new projects, called Chefs Bowls and Three Fish Bowls, will both be ghost kitchen concepts that operate in Third Ward’s Blodgett Food Hall. Bertsch explains that new concepts reflect the lessons learned from operating Kaisen for just over a year.

    “Ghost kitchens are really designed for a particular kind of business, which is essentially lower ticket average QSR food,” Bertsch says. Kaisen, where a standard order could run $60 or more per person, never did enough business to be sustainable, an issue that Bertsch spoke about regularly on social media.

    “Long story short, I didn't know what I was getting myself into by trying to put a really super nice concept in that my particular location. It was really difficult to overcome,” he says.

    Bertsch acknowledges that his inexperience in the restaurant business also played a role in the decision to close Kaisen. For example, he says he pays his staff more than traditional restaurants, but Kaisen doesn’t generate the same revenue a brick-and-mortar restaurant does due to factors such as its lower prices and lack of alcohol sales (among others).

    So he’s pivoting to two new concepts that will be more similar in price with the other concepts at Blodgett, roughly $15-25 per person. Although they’re similar and operate out of the same kitchen, listing them separately is necessary, because delivery platforms limit the radius of raw versus cooked concepts, Bertsch explains. Both are expected to launch the week of September 7, after Bertsch completes renovations to his space at Blodgett and gets the menus uploaded to third-party delivery services like Uber Eats and DoorDash.

    Sunny Bertsch Chefs Bowls Three Fish Bowls

    Courtesy of Sunny Bertsch

    Chef Sunny Bertsch recently closed Kaisen Sushi.

    Chef’s Bowls will serve rice bowls topped with proteins such as chicken teriyaki, salmon teriyaki, and steak, which will be cooked sous vide and seared to order. Bertsch hopes to stand out with a little more attention to detail than his competitors.

    “We've had access to rice bowl concepts that operate within our vicinity, and we see the kind of food that's being put out,” Bertsch says. “I want to see if I could do better. I'm not saying I am better, but I think there are some intangibles that are missing with the rice bowl space. I want to make my honest attempt at seeing if I can provide food at a lower price, and see if we can just make something from scratch that's of quality.”

    That same spirit will power Three Fish, which is named for the three proteins that are the top sellers at every sushi restaurant — salmon, yellowtail, and bluefin tuna. Bertsch intends to use the same fish that he used at Kaisen, just prepared differently. Using bluefin will differentiate Three Fish from similar concepts that use less expensive yellowfin tuna, Bertsch explains.

    “I'm really not a personal fan of yellowfin tuna. It's tasteless, and you’ve got to do a lot of dressing up of yellowfin tuna to make it taste interesting,” he says. “I'd rather have bluefin tuna. We've been testing it in the kitchen here and there when we have time, and it's so much tastier. Tuna should taste like tuna.”

    As for Kaisen, it could come back in the future. Bertsch says he’d like to find a brick-and-mortar location that would allow him to serve both dine-in and to-go customers. For now, he’s focused on making Chefs Bowls and Three Fish as successful as possible.

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