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    James Beard Semifinalists revealed

    Houston chefs, bars, and restaurants nab 11 James Beard semifinalist nominations in 2019

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2019 | 9:36 am

    The James Beard Foundation will be in Houston next month to announce the finalists for its annual awards, which are considered the Oscars of the culinary world; they recognize achievements by chefs, bartenders, restaurant owners, media members, and more. When it does, several of the city's chefs will be eagerly awaiting the news.

    The foundation announced the semifinalists for its chef awards, and once again, Houston is well-represented in the category of Best Chef: Southwest. This year's local nominees are: Ronnie Killen (Killen's Steakhouse), Trong Nguyen of Crawfish & Noodles — both of whom were nominated last year — and, for the first time, Kaiser Lashkari of Himalaya.

    Other intriguing Texas nominees include: Austin chefs Kevin Fink (Emmer & Rye), Bryce Gilmore (Barley Swine), and Michael Fojtasek (Olamaie); Dallas chefs Bruno Davaillon (Bullion) and David Uygur (Lucia); perennial nominee Steve McHugh (Cured in San Antonio), and others.

    Jonny Rhodes, chef-owner of Indigo, earns a nomination for Rising Star Chef of the Year, a national award for the most-promising talent under the age of 30. Despite being a 13-seat, tasting menu restaurant, Indigo has attracted major buzz in recent weeks, including being among Texas Monthly food editor Pat Sharpe's list of the state's best new restaurants for 2018.

    Houstonians earned nominations in a number of the prestigious national categories, too. For the first time, The Original Ninfa's on Navigation is nominated for Outstanding Restaurant. Chris Shepherd, already a Best Chef: Southwest winner, is nominated for Outstanding Chef in America. Tracy Vaught, chef Hugo Ortega's wife and business partner in the H-Town Restaurant Group (Hugo's, Caracol, etc), receives another nomination for Outstanding Restaurateur. Anvil Bar & Refuge has once again been nominated for Outstanding Bar Program; Pappas Bros. Steakhouse is up for Outstanding Wine Program. Both Tony's and Hugo's have been nominated for Outstanding Service.

    Overall, Texans earned 27 entries in the various categories, which Texas Monthly notes is the most ever and is up from 20 last year. How many will become finalists remains to be seen, of course, but surely the Beard Foundation wouldn't come to Houston just to shut the city out — right?

    The awards will be presented in Chicago on Monday, May 6.

    Tracy Vaught has been nominated for Outstanding Restaurateur.

    Backstreet Cafe Hugo Ortega cooking video October 2013 Tracy Vaught
    Photo by Joel Luks
    Tracy Vaught has been nominated for Outstanding Restaurateur.
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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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