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    What's Eric Eating Episode 160

    An insightful chat with Indigo's Jonny Rhodes, plus a first taste of Houston's most exciting new restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 3, 2020 | 1:10 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Jonny Rhodes joins CultureMap food editor to discuss his restaurant; Indigo, his grocery store; Broham Fine Soul Food & Groceries; and its supporting farm, Food Fight Farms.

    Since Rhodes' last appearance on the show in January 2019, he's earned wide acclaim, including a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination, best new restaurant awards from the likes of Food & Wine and GQ, and a spot on Time's list of the World's Greatest Places for 2019. Despite all that success, he's closing Indigo in 2021 to grow Broham.

    Rhodes offers new details about his aspirations for the project, including his goal to expand the farm to 100 acres and Broham to 25 locations over the next 10 years. Sandler asks the chef about his decision to shift from a restaurant to a grocery store.

    "That was always the plan," Rhodes says. "I told everybody it was a stepping stone for more sustainability and a project that could be more long term. Everyone in our community doesn't have the ability to pay $125. So I use my customer base as a platform so that I can create something much larger. When I first opened up, I didn't have the capacity to take on the project I'm doing now."

    The interview offers a number of other insights such as how Rhodes sees his role in light of the nationwide calls for racial justice sparked by the killing of George Floyd and what diners can expect from Indigo in its final year of service. Rhodes also provides details about the sort of fruit and product he intends to grow and when the farm will start producing.

    Prior to the interview, co-hosts Matt Harris and Felice Sloan join Sandler to discuss the news of the week. For their first topic, the trio reflect on the closing of burger-chan's location in Greenway Plaza and discuss where they'll satsify their burger cravings until its Galleria-area location opens next year. Sloan and Harris cite La Lucha, while Sandler mentions Montrose staple Brasil.

    For their second topic, they reflect on Chris Shepherd's recent Instagram post that criticized an influencer who offered to trade free food for the ever-elusive "exposure." Sandler and Sloan acknowledge that influencers have a role to play in the food community, but that a blind pitch to one of Houston's most well known chefs reflects poorly on their community.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, the trio share first impressions of Bludorn, the exciting new restaurant from chef Aaron Bludorn and his wife Victoria Pappas Bludorn. Given Bludorn's pedigree as the former executive chef of New York's Café Boulud, its overall ambition, and the quality of their meal, Sandler dubs it the most significant new restaurant to open in Houston this year.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Chef Jonny Rhodes is this week's guest.

    StarChefs Jonny Rhodes Indigo ash-aged potatoes
    Courtesy of StarChefs
    Chef Jonny Rhodes is this week's guest.
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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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