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    CultureMap Video

    Venerable Houston restaurant shakes things up with a cocktail master — and a revamped menu

    Marcy de Luna
    Marcy de Luna
    Aug 25, 2013 | 3:01 pm
    Venerable Houston restaurant shakes things up with a cocktail master — and a revamped menu
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    It's anything but business as usual for one of Houston's most venerable restaurants.

    RDG + Bar Annie's showing off a fresh cocktail menu crafted by new bar manager Chris Frankel and new bar bites from H-Town's original celebrity chef Robert Del Grande.

    Frankel has long been the recipient of praise for his cocktail work at Anvil Bar & Refuge, Underbelly and Cuchara Restaurant —to name a few. He's shaking things up at RDG with a myriad of internationally inspired, adventurous cocktails that highlight mainly eau de vie and brandy, such as the Eastern European brandy Slivovitz used in Frankel's creative Looking Glass drink.

    He's shaking things up at RDG with a myriad of internationally inspired, adventurous cocktails.

    The Looking Glass, meticulously made and named for the 1972 hit song "Brandy (You're a Fine Girl)," combines dark fruit notes of plum and cherry from Kirschwasser and Slivovitz brandies, respectively, softened by the addition of Nigori Sake. Passion fruit syrup and orange bitters round out the recipe for this stiff drink that's both fruity and dry.

    Del Grande complements it all with a revamped Bar Annie menu that features hors d'oeuvres such as oysters on the half shell and bacon wrapped Texas quail, and bar plates like the crispy chicken breast sandwich and beef barbacoa enchiladas.

    You'll find Del Grande's twist on a classic shrimp cocktail, the Thai curry coconut shrimp cocktail, a tempting option.

    Served in a martini glass, the intense flavors of the punchy and bold Thai curry coconut sauce — courtesy of exotic Asian spices like ginger, lemon grass, red chile and coriander — are able to stand up to the zing of the Looking Glass cocktail, making it the perfect palate partner.

    The recipe for both Del Grande's Thai curry coconut shrimp cocktail and Frankel's Looking Glass beverage appear below. Both will be featured in a cocktail class at the restaurant on Sept. 21, in which you can also learn how to make traditional cocktail classics such as margaritas and martinis, in addition to a few unique variations.

    Watch the video above to see Frankel and Del Grande show just how easy it is to craft these recipes at home.

    Looking Glass cocktail

    • 1 ounce Slivovitz plum brandy
    • 1 ounce Kirschwasser cherry brandy
    • 1 ounce Nigori Sake
    • 1/4 ounce BG Reynolds' passion fruit syrup (available at Houston Wine Merchant)
    • Two dashes orange bitters
    • One kaffir lime leaf, optional for garnish

    In a mixing glass, combine all ingredients. Add ice and stir with a spoon until well chilled. Strain into a small cocktail glass, garnish with a kaffir lime leaf and serve.

    Shrimp cocktail with cucumber salad and Thai curry coconut dressing

    Dressing:

    • 2 teaspoons Thai red curry paste
    • 1/2 teaspoon fresh minced ginger
    • 4 tablespoons mayonnaise
    • 4 tablespoons buttermilk
    • 4 tablespoons heavy cream
    • 2 tablespoons coconut puree
    • 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
    • 1/2 teaspoon lightly toasted whole coriander seeds
    • One crushed kaffir lime leaf (optional)

    Cucumber salad:

    • 1 cup cucumber, peeled and diced
    • Four Thai basil leaves, roughly chopped
    • 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
    • 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
    • 1 pinch salt and pepper

    Shrimp:

    • 8 ounces Gulf shrimp, poached, peeled and chilled
    • Four Thai basil leaves for garnish

    For the Thai curry dressing, combine all of the ingredients and mix vigorously with a sauce whisk. Chill. For the salad, combine the diced cucumber, basil, sesame oil and lime juice in a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt and pepper. Lightly toss.

    Place the cucumber mix in the bottom of a martini glass, then add the chilled shrimp on top. Spoon the sauce over the shrimp and garnish with Thai basil leaves. This recipe yields enough for four people — or two people with Texas-sized appetites.

    Robert Del Grande's shrimp cocktail with cucumber salad and Thai curry coconut dressing.

    2 Bottom's Up at RDG August 2013 shrimp
    Photo by Joel Luks
    Robert Del Grande's shrimp cocktail with cucumber salad and Thai curry coconut dressing.
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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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