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    Most Imaginative Bartender

    Winning bartender looks to Van Gogh's "Starry Night" for cocktail inspiration

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 19, 2015 | 3:06 pm

    When considering a gin cocktail, a person might order a martini or a gin and tonic. More devoted cocktail fans might select a Negroni or a bramble. But when a bartender is asked to make a gin cocktail — specifically, an imaginative cocktail — the results are can be surprising and even delightful.

    Popular gin brand Bombay Sapphire fosters that sort of creativity with its prestigious Most Imaginative Bartender competition. Now in its ninth year, the contest attracts top talent who want to win a trip to Las Vegas to compete in the national competition and be featured in GQ magazine.

    On August 12, the contest held its Texas finals at the Nightingale Room. Two Houstonians, ice chef Hope Clarke from The Commoner/The Boulevardier and bartender Chris Morris from Radio Milano, competed against bartenders from Dallas and Austin. While elements like Clarke's curry-flavored ice impressed the judges, it would not be enough to win.

    "I think it still has some work to do before it’s fully ready, but it’s a competition I love. I think it’s a drink that can stand out."

    That honor belonged to Justin Lavenue from the Roosevelt Room in Austin. For his entry, the bartender drew inspiration from Vincent van Gogh's "The Starry Night" for a cocktail he named "L'Etoile de la Nuit." Built around a martini, the cocktail incorporated a house made dry rose vermouth, absinthe, unripened blueberry juice, charcoal powder and foie gras-washed French elderflower liqueur. He garnished the cocktail with tarragon-infused olive oil that had liquid gold homogenized into it.

    "Every element was French-inspired to go with that French theme of his painting," Lavenue said. "To represent the wind rolling over the hills of San Remis, I did unripened blueberry juice, because the hills are blue. It adds a crisp acidity to the drink. Charcoal powder turns the drink jet black; Van Gogh used to use charcoal as opposed to paint when he was really poor."

    According to Treadsack bar director Leslie Ross, Lavenue's combination of story, technique and execution helped him stand out with the panel of judges that included her, local bartender Hal Brock and two others. "He took a different angle than most of the other contestants, but what he brought to the table was an explanation," Ross said. "Something that was well planned, well thought out and well executed."

    Ross, who represented Texas in the competition last year and finished in the top five nationally, thinks Lavenue has the skills to win. "He’s going to bring it home to Texas for the first time. I’m absolutely going to bet on that horse."

    How does Lavenue feel about his chances? Could he be the first Texan to win?

    "I really hope so," he said. "I’ve been working on it quite a bit. I think it still has some work to do before it’s fully ready, but it’s a competition I love. I think it’s a drink that can stand out."

    Justin Lavenue with his winning cocktail, L'Etoile de la Nuit

    Bombay Sapphire Most Imaginative Justin Lavanue
    Courtesy photo
    Justin Lavenue with his winning cocktail, L'Etoile de la Nuit
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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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