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    Almeda Yards Arrives

    New Midtown block promises to have it all: Coffee, beer, pizza — and hammocks

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 14, 2015 | 10:23 am

    Midtown has plenty of places to party, but the growing neighborhood still lacks places to relax. That's all set to change this fall thanks to the Axelrad Beer Garden. A project by local investors Monte Large, Adam Brackman and Jeff Kaplan, Axelrad will serve as a beer garden, bar and neighborhood gathering point.

    When the concept was first announced two years ago, it was known as the Victory Beer Garden, but the partners chose instead to name the venture after the almost 100-year old building at the intersection of West Alabama and Almeda that anchors the property. Brackman tells CultureMap that a member of the Axelrad family contacted him when she read about the project. She expressed concern that the building might be torn down, but Brackman always had an eye on preserving it.

    "There’s so much character and charm to old buildings. So much story that you just can’t replicate."

    "The fact is you can’t build a building like that anymore. Back when it was built, Alabama was only a two-lane street. One of the lanes that’s there now was their front yard," Brackman says. "There’s so much character and charm to old buildings. So much story that you just can’t replicate."

    When the woman made a visit to Houston, she toured the site with Brackman and Large. "She pointed to this corner and said ‘That’s where my crib was. I can remember watching the activity outside that window.’ Then we went to look on the door, and the mezuzah was still there from her grandparents . . . She became one of our investors. She’s a treasure trove of information about the history of what it was," he says.

    The first floor of the Axelrad building will house the bar and provide some seating that's protected from heat and rain. Interior design and branding are being handled by Gin Braverman and Evan O'Neil with gindesignsgroup (Oxheart, Camerata, The Boulevardier). "She’s really running with a lot of this," Brackman says about Braverman. "She helped pick out all the finishes and the layout."

    No plans have been decided on for the second story, but the space certainly has potential. Formerly home to apartments, Brackman thinks it could house a speakeasy style cocktail bar thanks to its various rooms that would provide for intimate seating areas.

    Signature element

    While the interior is important, the garden will be Axelrad's signature element. At 12,000 square feet, it will feature plenty of seating, a place for outdoor games and even an area of hammocks for lounging. Large says he took that idea from a similar setup at the El Cosmico campground in Marfa. "The whole vibe that we’re going for is relaxing, kind of a respite from the busyness, a place to hang out and have a good time. Hammocks we thought were a good addition to that," Large explains.

    Designed by landscape architect Jenny Janis, the garden area will feature a mix of indigenous plants as well as a water feature. A series of canopies will provide shade, and video artists will be able to display their work on the building via a projector.

    "While we invite the beer connoisseurs, it’s about the setting as much as the beer."

    Turning to the food and beverage side, Axelrad will offer 25 taps that mix local favorites with national craft options, as well as a selection of bottles and cans, but Large sees Axelrad as different from beer bars with larger selections and an enthusiast focus.

    "We don’t necessarily want to compete with other beer bars," Large says. "We are very serious about the beer. The environment though and the setting and this being a neighborhood spot is very important to us, too. While we invite the beer connoisseurs, it’s about the setting as much as the beer."

    Axelrad will feature food from neighboring restaurant Luigi's Pizzeria or trucks parked onsite. Patrons will be able to order a pizza from Luigi's to eat in the beer garden or take a beer from the bar to Luigi's. It's a highly symbiotic relationship that Brackman is particularly excited about.

    "I do think that our concept and synergy could increase their sales by 20 percent. They’re willing to stay open later, until two or three. They couldn’t be more excited," he says. "They already serve pizza and wings. We’ve loosely talked about custom pizza flavors. They’re flexible. We’ll do whatever we can to help their business."

    Almeda Yards

    That relationship also extends to Retrospect Coffee, which should also open this fall on the same block at the corner of La Branch and Alabama. Brackman says they've dubbed the block "Almeda Yards" and are planning day-long festivals, similar to the way the businesses Mid Main work together on joint events.

    Taken together, all of the components represent an ambitious plan for a part of Midtown that's still ripe for development. The project has a lot of moving pieces that all need to come together, but, given the partners success with companies like New Living and endeavors like the Houston Needs a Swimming Hole campaign, it's difficult to bet against them.

    The historic Axelrad building will house the beer bar downstairs and potentially a speakeasy upstairs.

    Axelrad Beer Garden Almeda Yards
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    The historic Axelrad building will house the beer bar downstairs and potentially a speakeasy upstairs.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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