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    Showing Gratitude

    Brasserie 19 masterminds unveil posh and gratifying new restaurant in Rice Village

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 6, 2021 | 1:27 pm
    Gratify restaurant exterior
    Gratify is now open for dinner.
    Courtesy of Clark Cooper Concepts

    Rice Village’s newest dining destination keeps things classic. Gratify Neighborhood Bistro, the newest concept from Brasserie 19 owners Clark Cooper Concepts, recently opened next to Coppa Osteria in the former Punk’s Simple Southern Food space (5212 Morningside Dr.).

    Currently open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday (lunch and daily operations will begin in time), Gratify aims to fill a need in Rice Village for an adult concept with an extensive raw bar. In place of Punk’s rustic interior, the space has been decorated with posh furniture the company had been quietly collecting for a few years — and a disco ball. According to Clark Cooper co-owner Grant Cooper, customers are excited about the new arrival.

    “In a week of soft opening, people walk in and their jaws drop,” Cooper says. “I had people hugging me. They love the space. They’re excited to have something like this in the neighborhood that’s more elevated, more grown up.”

    Cooper cites the style of restaurants he and his wife Jacy frequent when they travel as a major influence on Gratify’s direction. They seek out small restaurants that serve classic fare like shrimp cocktail, tuna tartare, crab Louie, and more.

    “It’s not a rocket science menu,” Cooper says. “Sometimes I think restaurants try to get real cute. We wanted the neighborhood bistro to be a place people could understand and put our take on it. Do it better, in our opinion.”

    In Gratify’s case, making a better bistro means crab cakes with barely any breading, mac and cheese loaded up with lots of lobster and crab, and steak au poivre with frites that’s a nod to Cooper’s Belgian heritage. Other items include cheese and charcuterie boards, caviar, and short ribs with garlic mashed potatoes.

    A tidy menu of agave-based cocktails and the company’s signature low markup wine list offer diners different beverage pairing options.

    Some comparisons with Brasserie 19 are probably inevitable. After all, both restaurants feature mostly classic fare and an extensive raw bar, but Cooper sees them as very different establishments.

    "It’s different in the decor. It’s different in the menu and the overall tone," he says. "The only similarities are a bistro and a brasserie are both essentially the hubs of a neighborhood. I think that’s where the similarity is. Other than that, it’s different."

    At this point, the only thing holding Gratify back is a lack of staff. Cooper says the restaurant only has 30 percent of the front of house staff it needs to initiate daily lunch and dinner service. Similar issues have prevented the company from reopening the Dunlavy, its restaurant on Buffalo Bayou.

    “It’s always about finding people who fit our culture,” he says. “Ideally we want people with us long term. As soon as we get the staff, we’ll be rolling.”

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    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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