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    Houston's Hot New Bakery

    Food game changer: Houston's best bread company is set to open its first local bakery — and expand to Austin

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 30, 2014 | 9:56 am

    The numbers are staggering: 15,000 to 20,000 pounds of flour per week, 18,000 pieces per day (6,000 or more of which are hamburger buns), 300 customers from Conroe to Webster and Katy to Kingwood. All produced from an anonymous, unmarked warehouse space on Westpark.

    Owner Heath Wendell estimates that as many as 20,000 Houstonians per day eat the bread produced by Slow Dough Bread Co. "It's just mind boggling for us," he tells CultureMap.

    While Wendell could be content with Slow Dough's growth over the past five years, he isn't the sort of person to rest of his laurels. That's why the company, which supplies freshly baked bread to many of Houston's finest restaurants, is set to expand even further by moving into the Austin market and opening a retail storefront as part of the new Weights + Measures complex in Midtown. (CultureMap was first to report on the Weights + Measures complex.)

    The menu is still under development, but it will include donuts, as well as what Wendell calls the "rustic side of pastries . . . "

    Wendell recalls growing up in Chicago and working for Deerfields Bakery, a company his grandfather started. When he wanted to grow the business beyond what his uncles were comfortable with, Wendell's grandfather encouraged him to leave and start his own business.

    "He recognized I was an entrepreneur," Wendell says. Eventually, Wendell arrived in Houston. "I came down here and recognized the need for bread," he says.

    The Austin expansion has already begun. A Slow Dough truck heads west four days per week to service six accounts that include celebrated charcuterie shop Salt & Time, Royal Blue grocery and the Farmhouse delivery service. General manager Clayton Garrett tells CultureMap that Slow Dough is responding to demand from Austin restaurants that couldn't purchase bread from Austin's existing commercial bakers.

    "We made the decision because of the amount of phone calls we received," Wendell adds. "We're really, really excited about it."

    To meet the expected demand, the company has added two new trucks and will soon install two massive new deck ovens to double its production capacity.

    In addition, manager Thomas Massey, who spent years working for Whole Foods in Austin, will be in the city full-time to serve as a resource for customers. Massey notes that despite the growth of Austin's restaurant scene, the city's existing bakeries don't have "enough capacity to handle the desire for new, different and better." Still, he says, "I love Austin. There's tons of room for everyone."

    If there's sufficient demand, Wendell thinks Slow Dough could even open a bakery in Austin to service both that city and San Antonio. Once the demand justifies the expense, Wendell says he'd like to find a business-minder baker in Austin who could partner with the company and train in Houston. "It would be nice," he says.

    As the Austin expansion is happening, Slow Dough will also launch its first retail space as part of the Weights + Measures complex in Midtown. The development, a joint venture between urban designer/developer Ian Rosenberg, 13 Celsius owner Mike Sammons, Brown Paper Chocolates owner Richard Kaplan and Slow Dough, will feature a 600 square-foot retail bakery that sells sweet and savory breads and pastries.

    The partnership grew out of Wendell's longstanding relationship with Rosenberg and Sammons that began when Wendell and co-owner/fiancee Marlo Evans first started Slow Dough. The last stop on their delivery route was 13 Celsius, and they would stay to have a glass of wine and discuss their businesses. For four years, Rosenberg told Wendell that he wanted to help him open a retail location.

    "This project came up, and everything worked out," Wendell says. "Everything will be made there," he promises, rather than trucked in from the wholesale facility.

    "When you have a retail store, you can see people's reactions to your product," Wendell notes. "I'm totally looking forward to it." The menu is still under development, but it will include donuts, as well as what Wendell calls the "rustic side of pastries . . . Things I grew up making."

    The new space will also make pizza dough for an adjacent restaurant and serve as a training ground for bakers before they enter production at the wholesale facility, since they'll be freed from the pressure of having to make hundreds of pieces at a time.

    "We'll be part of the retail community, which is pretty cool," Wendell says.

    The finished product.

    10 Slow Dough bread making June 2014
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    The finished product.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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