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    ceci nest pas une nightclub

    Controversial Houston nightclub's owner defends packed weekend crowds

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 29, 2020 | 2:16 pm
    Houston, Playboy and Tao Super Bowl Party, Jan 2017, A view of the atmosphere during the Playboy party with TAO Group at Spire Nightclub
    Spire was almost as packed last weekend as it was during the 2017 Super Bowl.
    Photo by Christopher Polk/Getty Images

    Sometimes a nightclub isn't a nightclub. That's the message from a person affiliated with Spire after the downtown hotspot came under heavy criticism for video that showed customers dancing in the venue despite Texas Gov. Greg Abbott's order that shuttered bars statewide.

    "Back in November 2019, the main owner had come to the realization that he no longer owned a bar," Bret Hightower tells CultureMap content partner ABC13. "He owned a lounge/venue hall because most of the revenue was not coming from alcohol or liquor sales. It was coming from ticket sales, and then to be able to reserve your own private section."

    Since the venue is a "reception hall," it is not subject to the restrictions on bars, Hightower argues. In his view, the problem isn't that Spire had too many people; it's that customers simply ignored the rules the venue tried to enforce.

    "That's why we have an emphasis on a social lounge with food," Hightower says. "Our emphasis is not to have drunk partygoers. From the videos, we were doing our best to control that."

    Clé Group's Zack Truesdell spoke to CultureMap exclusively and says that Hightower is a "liaison" between the club and the City of Houston. He defended Spire's actions, citing a late-night visit by auditors from the The Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission.

    "TABC came to our establishment at 1:30 in the morning," says Truesdell. "We had about 200 people there — our occupancy is about 1,200, so were operating about an 18 percent load. They saw everything — from the entrance, to the signs, to us making people wear a mask on the way to the restroom — and they took many videos. From that, they allowed us to remain open — and continue to open."

    As for whether Spire is a nightclub or a reception hall, Truesdell says it's "a little bit of everything."

    Whether the staff at Spire was truly "doing its best" might be a matter of some dispute. As videos circulated on social media over the weekend, the business drew sharp criticism from others members of Houston's bar and restaurant community.

    Bobby Heugel, who closed his bars Anvil and Better Luck Tomorrow in compliance with the governor's orders, concluded a length Instagram post with the following statement:

    I don’t know these guys or frequent their bars, but it’s clear they redefined the club experience in Houston. It’s even hard to not be impressed in a morbid fucked up way that they can actually pack a bar during a pandemic shutdown! But Clé Group, y’all (and others) are crushing other operators with your greed and lack of consideration for every single out of work bartender, server, busser, etc. Quit fucking the rest of us...y’all are better than this right?

    "I think he's a great operator and he's certainly entitled to say whatever he feels on social media," Truesdell says, responding to Heugel's post.

    Sean Beck, beverage director for H-Town Restaurant Group (Hugo's, Backstreet Cafe, etc.) expressed a similar sentiment in a public Facebook post that's been shared over 200 times:

    Restaurants have been working for nearly 2 months to operate responsibly with tons of space, separation, sanitation, cleanliness procedures and staff testing. Restaurants are fighting to stay alive and to be safe for our communities and yet this place is doing this. I don’t know who gets to make the call, but this place shouldn’t be allowed to operate based on any of the guidelines we have been pressed by state and local officials.

    Whether the government will act against Spire or any of the other nightclubs that operated over the weekend remains to be seen. Hightower tells ABC13 that the downtown nightclub passed an inspection over the weekend, and sister property Clé did not suffer any regulatory consequences for the massive pool party it hosted during Memorial Day weekend.

    "Do we have challenges keeping people socially distanced when they're fighting us on it," Truesdell says. "Yes. Have we received even one violation from any of the City's departments? No."

    ---

    With additional reporting by Steven Devadanam

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    news/restaurants-bars

    One Day Only

    Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

    Eric Sandler
    May 12, 2026 | 5:00 pm
    Josephine's crawfish Lucas McKinney
    Photo by Quit Nguyen
    Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

    The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

    Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

    • Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
    • Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
    • Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
    • Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

    The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.


    LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

    “Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

    McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

    “With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

    LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

    “It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

    Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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