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    ceci nest pas une nightclub

    Controversial Houston nightclub's owner defends packed weekend crowds

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 29, 2020 | 2:16 pm
    Houston, Playboy and Tao Super Bowl Party, Jan 2017, A view of the atmosphere during the Playboy party with TAO Group at Spire Nightclub
    Spire was almost as packed last weekend as it was during the 2017 Super Bowl.
    Photo by Christopher Polk/Getty Images

    Sometimes a nightclub isn't a nightclub. That's the message from a person affiliated with Spire after the downtown hotspot came under heavy criticism for video that showed customers dancing in the venue despite Texas Gov. Greg Abbott's order that shuttered bars statewide.

    "Back in November 2019, the main owner had come to the realization that he no longer owned a bar," Bret Hightower tells CultureMap content partner ABC13. "He owned a lounge/venue hall because most of the revenue was not coming from alcohol or liquor sales. It was coming from ticket sales, and then to be able to reserve your own private section."

    Since the venue is a "reception hall," it is not subject to the restrictions on bars, Hightower argues. In his view, the problem isn't that Spire had too many people; it's that customers simply ignored the rules the venue tried to enforce.

    "That's why we have an emphasis on a social lounge with food," Hightower says. "Our emphasis is not to have drunk partygoers. From the videos, we were doing our best to control that."

    Clé Group's Zack Truesdell spoke to CultureMap exclusively and says that Hightower is a "liaison" between the club and the City of Houston. He defended Spire's actions, citing a late-night visit by auditors from the The Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission.

    "TABC came to our establishment at 1:30 in the morning," says Truesdell. "We had about 200 people there — our occupancy is about 1,200, so were operating about an 18 percent load. They saw everything — from the entrance, to the signs, to us making people wear a mask on the way to the restroom — and they took many videos. From that, they allowed us to remain open — and continue to open."

    As for whether Spire is a nightclub or a reception hall, Truesdell says it's "a little bit of everything."

    Whether the staff at Spire was truly "doing its best" might be a matter of some dispute. As videos circulated on social media over the weekend, the business drew sharp criticism from others members of Houston's bar and restaurant community.

    Bobby Heugel, who closed his bars Anvil and Better Luck Tomorrow in compliance with the governor's orders, concluded a length Instagram post with the following statement:

    I don’t know these guys or frequent their bars, but it’s clear they redefined the club experience in Houston. It’s even hard to not be impressed in a morbid fucked up way that they can actually pack a bar during a pandemic shutdown! But Clé Group, y’all (and others) are crushing other operators with your greed and lack of consideration for every single out of work bartender, server, busser, etc. Quit fucking the rest of us...y’all are better than this right?

    "I think he's a great operator and he's certainly entitled to say whatever he feels on social media," Truesdell says, responding to Heugel's post.

    Sean Beck, beverage director for H-Town Restaurant Group (Hugo's, Backstreet Cafe, etc.) expressed a similar sentiment in a public Facebook post that's been shared over 200 times:

    Restaurants have been working for nearly 2 months to operate responsibly with tons of space, separation, sanitation, cleanliness procedures and staff testing. Restaurants are fighting to stay alive and to be safe for our communities and yet this place is doing this. I don’t know who gets to make the call, but this place shouldn’t be allowed to operate based on any of the guidelines we have been pressed by state and local officials.

    Whether the government will act against Spire or any of the other nightclubs that operated over the weekend remains to be seen. Hightower tells ABC13 that the downtown nightclub passed an inspection over the weekend, and sister property Clé did not suffer any regulatory consequences for the massive pool party it hosted during Memorial Day weekend.

    "Do we have challenges keeping people socially distanced when they're fighting us on it," Truesdell says. "Yes. Have we received even one violation from any of the City's departments? No."

    ---

    With additional reporting by Steven Devadanam

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    news/restaurants-bars

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    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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