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    6 things to know

    6 things to know in Houston food right now: Star chefs host a Beard Award tasting event, plus latest news

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 27, 2022 | 2:43 pm

    Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Now open up north

    Those heading to Lake Conroe for recreation have a new all-day cafe to consider. Hunger Crush Café serves an eclectic menu of classic American fare at breakfast and lunch daily with dinner on the weekends (15250 Hwy 105 W., in Montgomery).

    Open daily beginning at 8 am, owners Mike and Mary Kelton have created a restaurant that caters to a diverse set of tastes. Breakfast options include avocado toast, omelets, and three different pancake flavors — all of which can be paired with juices, mimosas, or a full range of espresso drinks. At lunch and dinner, choose from a range of sandwiches, salads, burgers, and entrees such as meatloaf, penne bolognese, and chicken fried steak.

    Hunger Crush has a charitable component, too. An unspecific portion of proceeds from the sales of its “hunger boards” — family-style servings designed to feed a crowd — will be contributed to the Montgomery County Food Bank.

    New menus

    Chef Danny Leal has rolled out his offerings for Local Group Brewing, the brewery in Hardy Yards that reopened recently under new ownership. Available Thursday-Sunday, the menu includes dishes such as pork belly gorditas, smoked jalapeño and cheese sausage kolaches, and “hot and tangy” chicken sandwich served with Leal’s signature yucca fries. On the weekends, the chef adds barbacoa and carnitas tacos to his offerings.

    Most importantly, fans of the chef’s fare at shuttered cocktail bar Night Shift will be pleased to know that churros are available for dessert. Hours of operation are 4-10 pm Thursday and Friday, 11 am-10 pm Saturday and 11 am-8 pm Sunday.

    Chef Kevin Bryant has put his stamp on the menu at Rice Village Italian restaurant Roma. A veteran of restaurants such as Tony’s and Eleven XI, Bryant’s new offerings include chilled octopus salad with roasted lemon vinaigrette, truffle-crusted cod over summer vegetables, and Tonno Alla Grillia, a grilled rare tuna over chilled cannellini bean salad with heirloom tomatoes, garlic, roasted lemon, and sundried tomato pesto. Vegetarians will find options such as risotto with spring vegetables and gnocchi with arugula and tomatoes.

    Over time, Bryant hopes to add more tableside preparations. Currently, the restaurant features a whole fish that’s deboned at the table and Cacio e Pepe that includes spaghetti tossed tableside in a pecorino bowl.

    “We’re putting love in the food,” Bryant said in a statement. “Love is understanding the ingredients and knowing why you put certain ingredients in a pan, in a certain order. Italian food is that deep down grandmother inside of you, showing you the art of it, grabbing the best tomato and basil, and creating an exceptional product out of it. We’re striving to create the best experience and version of what’s offered.”

    Food happenings

    Norwegian chef Christopher Haatuft will host a series of dinners this week at Golfstrommen, the restaurant he opened in the Post Market food hall. Known as the father of Neo-Fjordic cuisine, Haatuft will collaborate with chef Paul Qui and Golfstrommen chef de cuisine Biggie Cruz to serve dishes inspired by Lysverket, his restaurant in Bergen, Norway. Expect menus that highlight the chef’s interest in sustainable ingredients. Options include dinners this week that utilize North Atlantic seafood like squid, lobster, salt cod (bacalao), and mackerel as well as a brunch on Sunday, July 3. Make reservations via the Resy app.

    The James Beard Foundation has released the menu for its Taste America event that’s taking place this Wednesday, June 29 at Silver Street Studios. They include: Dawn Burrell (Late August), Cured Salmon with Tamarind Tiger Fry, Cucumber, and Crunchy Salmon Skin; Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu (Kin HTX), Ceviche with Lemongrass Leche de Tigre, Chili Oil, and Sesame Crisp; Christine Ha and Tony J. Nguyen (Xin Chào), Vietnamese Wagyu Meatball; Rebecca Masson (Fluff Bake Bar), Star Crossed Lover Bars; Kaitlin Steets (Theodore Rex), Tomato Toast, and Michelle Wallace (Gatlin’s BBQ), Hickory-Smoked Catfish with Deconstructed Dirty Rice

    Tickets, available here, include samples from the participating chefs, drinks from event sponsors, and music by DJ Seek, aka Blood Bros. BBQ co-founder Robin Wong.

    Brasil will host a fundraiser for Planned Parenthood this Friday, July 1. Executive chef AJ Ede has recruited a talented group of friends for the event. Brasil will donate proceeds from Ede’s signature “Cheeseburger in Paradise” (a bacon cheeseburger with jalapeño sauce), while Brasil general manager Beryl Fergus has created a boozy strawberry lemonade for the event. Other participants include bartender Dani Taylan, chef Nick Wong, and CultureMap Tastemaker Awards winners Christina Au (Blacksmith) and Josh Deleon (Underground Creamery), each of whom will have sweet treats for sale. The event starts at 11 am and goes until sold out.

    Kevin Bryant has introduced new dishes at Roma.

    Roma restaurant table spread
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Kevin Bryant has introduced new dishes at Roma.
    news-you-can-eatfundraisers
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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