Meet the Tastemakers

9 Houston pop-ups pushing the city's food scene forward

For the fifth year in a row, the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards includes the category Best Pop-Up/Startup. It recognizes food-based businesses that don’t operate in traditional bar or restaurant settings.

These entrepreneurs reach consumers in a variety of ways, including online sales, farmers markets, and pop-ups at bars and breweries. It takes determination — and a savvy social media presence — to build a loyal following.

It’s also a solid path to success. Not only have restaurants such as Tatemo, Chopnblok, and Street to Kitchen all participated in this category in years past, they've gone on to achieve national acclaim.

Find out which nominee takes the prize at our Tastemaker Awards ceremony April 3 at Silver Street Studios. Dine on bites from this year’s nominees, sip cocktails from our sponsors, and witness as we reveal the winners. Buy your tickets now before they sell out.

Ally Barrera, Sweet Bee Bakehouse
From her kitchen in Pearland, Barrera turns out a wide range of both croissants and other pastries. Fans come to her for some of the Houston area’s best butter croissants as well as originals like the Nutella Roll, which wraps crispy croissant dough around nutella pastry cream and chocolate chips. Barrera says her future includes plans to move to a commercial space, which could make her treats accessible on a daily, rather than a weekly, basis.

Andrea de Gortari, The Bake Happening
Houstonians turn to Gortari when they need an inventive, custom cake for any occasion. From a space cowgirl theme to a putting a cute spin on a kid’s love of insects, Gortari always turns her customer’s wild ideas into a deliciously edible reality. People will also find her popping up at markets and supporting causes such as hospitality health nonprofit I’ll Have What She’s Having.

“The Bake Happening is where art, flavor and chaos meet,” the baker tells CultureMap.”I focus on flavors and ingredients inspired by my beautiful culture-rich city, My blue and yellow marbled corn cookie with sal de totomoxtle (blue corn husk ash) is one of my best sellers.”

Gabriel Gooley, Gabriel's Goodies
One of this year’s first time nominees, Gooley has developed a devoted for his expertly-made chocolate chips cookies, sourdough bread loaves, and other creations — all of which sell out in minutes via weekly “drops” that he promotes via a growing Instagram account. Part of what sets Gooley apart is how fastidious he is about his ingredients and methods. Since his sourdough is naturally leavened, it takes three days to make, for example.

“I take pride and enjoyment in everything I make and hope everyone else does too,” he says.

Gabriel Medina, Subo
After closing Click Virtual Food Hall at the end of 2022, Medina spent some time working as a private chef. Now he’s back with this pop-up that celebrates his Filipino heritage. Served every Saturday at the Urban Harvest farmers market, Subo puts a Filipino spin on breakfast with dishes such as a garlic fried rice with choice of pork belly, garlic ribeye, or coconut-chili vegetables. He’s also collaborating on dinners with other chefs, including fellow nominee Suu Khin.

Garrett Rice and Ryan Kristensen, Bayou Butchers
Typically, dry-aged beef is only served in steakhouses — as at Pappas Bros., which famously ages its beef in-house, but Bayou Butchers wants to change that perception. Rice and Kristensen are showcasing the beef in sandwiches such as a Philly cheesesteak, chopped cheese, and a Chicago-style Italian beef. “We’re here to create a unique eating experience for everybody,” Rice explains.

Joseph Boudreaux, Boo's Burgers
The chef has earned wide acclaim for his take on the classic smash burger. Part of the enthusiasm stems from the care that goes into each burger, as Boudreaux grinds his own meat, makes his own pickles, and developed a custom burger sauce. All that attention detail will serve Boudreaux well when he opens a permanent location on the Navigation Esplanade later this year.

Luciana Emiliani, La Crumb
Every weekend, Emiliani posts up at Houston coffee shops with a rotating menu of sweet and savory treats. Just don’t get too attached to any one special, as Emiliani likes to switch things up to utilize seasonal ingredients or pay homage to holidays.

“My favorite part of my pop up is always when I tell people what I’ve baked for the day and I see their eyes kinda widen,” she tells CultureMap. “My goal is always to keep a lil character in what I do and keep everyone’s requests in mind. All in all, I’m very grateful for everyone who comes out.”

Michelle Wallace, B'tween Sandwich Co.
After a successful stint at Gatlin’s BBQ, the chef set out on her own to prove once and for all that Houston has great sandwiches. At the bimonthly Rice Village market and other events, diners line up for dishes like an egg and cheese on one of Wallace’s signature biscuits or globally-inspired sandwiches like a smoked lamb torta.

“There is beauty in reimagining food and services,” Wallace says. “We are stretching the parameters of barbecue, sandwiches, and Southern-inspired food and serving them, at a high level, at farmers markets. And I think that is incredible!”

Ralph Palmer and Daniel Andrade, Deckle & Hide
Inspired by the barbecue classes he took at Truth BBQ and Austin’s LeRoy & Lewis Barbecue, Palmer, a podcast host and occasional CultureMap contributor, began popping up at local breweries in collaboration with Andrade, a welder, began infusing his Mexican heritage into Deckle & Hyde’s menus. The results are fan favorites like birria tacos, charro-style beans with smoked pork, and the soon-to-be-famous Elote Jalapeño Cheese Sausage.

“We’re weird. Like really weird. Spectacles, costumes, and meme-based barbecue events are all on the table,” Palmer acknowledges. “The only thing our outfit takes seriously is the the preservation of the craft and how our little outfit fits into the story of Houston food.”

Suu Khin, Burmalicious
After bursting onto the scene by making the finals of season 11 of the Gordon Ramsay cooking competition show Masterchef, Khin has continued to build a strong following for flavorful Burmese fare. She even drew the attention of the James Beard Awards, which recently named her a semifinalist in the Emerging Chef category. Whether at a market or her monthly appearance at Cucharita, she’s shared her culture with dishes such as laphet (tea leaf salad) or mohinga (lemongrass fish noodle soup).

“We’re on a mission to make Burmese cuisine more accessible in Houston,” Khin affirms. Could a brick and mortar be far behind?

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The Tastemaker Awards program is brought to you by Stella Artois, PicMe Events, and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

Photo by Michael Ma

Suu Khin, Burmalicious

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Soup spoon season

10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

“The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

“I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

“It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

“For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

“My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

“To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

“I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

“And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

“Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

“The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

“The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

“The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

$Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,$

Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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