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    10 things to know

    6 can't-miss restaurant openings, plus the latest Houston food news

    Eric Sandler
    May 25, 2018 | 10:15 am

    Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Openings
    Jinya Ramen, the California-based Japanese restaurant, opened its fourth Houston-area location in the Champions area at 5050 FM 1960 Road W. Like its siblings in Midtown, Webster, and Katy, the new Jinya serves 13 signature soups as well as shareable small plates. Additional locations are planned for Cypress, Springwoods, and the Heights, which means it won’t be long before every Houstonian is slurping bowls of Jinya’s signature tonkotsu black ramen.

    In the mood for a lighter noodle soup? Consider Flying Pho. Located at 3434 Ella Blvd., this new project from Ninja Ramen owner Christopher Huang serves northern, Hanoi-style pho that features a lighter, less heavily spiced broth that isn't as sweet as the southern, Saigon-style Houstonians eat every day. Keep an eye on Facebook for hours and additions to the menu.

    Cantina Barba is now serving up mezcal and tacos at 3701 N Main St. Open every day from 7 am until late, the restaurant serves all the familiar tacos from the Taqueria Barba food truck as well as new starters (guacamole, queso) and an addictive pineapple-orange slushie (among other things).

    Padna Cajun Eatery recently opened at 403 Westheimer Rd. The menu and ordering procedures are a bit of a work in progress — splitting the check between two people took some extra time — but the quality of the shrimp po’ boy and boudin balls made a strong first impression when a friend and I dropped by for lunch. We'll be back for late-season crawfish that looked big enough to be mini-lobsters.

    Speaking of bayou eats, The Lost Cajun opened its second Houston-area location in Rosenberg at 24004 SW Freeway. Founded by Louisiana native Raymond Griffin, the Colorado-based restaurant serves Cajun classics like gumbo, red beans and rice, and etouffee and features a down home atmosphere where servers address patrons as “sir” and “ma’am,” according to a press release. Seems maybe a little heavy-handed, but at least they aren't calling the customers "chief."

    Closings
    It’s been a tough couple of weeks for chicken-based concepts. Fresh off the news that Fielding’s Rooster closed in The Woodlands, comes word that the original, Galleria-area location of Krisp Bird & Batter has also shuttered. The Heights location at 2400 N. Shepherd Dr. remains open.

    Other things to know
    King's Bierhaus has partnered with Fransmart, the franchising development group behind restaurants like The Halal Guys and Five Guys Burgers & Fries, to seek out people who want to take the beer and bratwurst concept beyond the Bayou City. Would-be franchisees must meet the following requirements: $500,000 of liquid capital, a net worth of at least $1,500,000, a franchise fee of $50,000, and a royalty fee of six-percent of gross weekly sales.

    "We want to bring the authentic German biergarten experience to people around the globe, and our distinct combination of casual dining with personalized service brings the best of both worlds together in a scalable concept," said King’s Bierhaus president, Philipp Sitter, in a statement. "The success we’ve seen with this model all started years ago with a brat and a dream, and we’re looking forward to taking King's Bierhaus to the next level by expanding the concept to new markets with the able support and expertise of Fransmart as a partner."

    Bosscat Kitchen + Libations is lightening things up a bit. Chef Peter Petro’s new menu sheds its “dude food” reputation with new additions that include gulf tuna lettuce wraps, a tomato salad, and snapper with rye whiskey butter — all of which make the decision to order the new banana pudding a little easier. In addition, the Galleria-area spot has also transformed part of the restaurant into a 1,300-square-foot, 66-person private dining room with full A/V capabilities.

    The Dunlavy has always been a stylish destination for breakfast, lunch, and brunch, but only attendees at private events have had the opportunity to see those 42 chandeliers sparkle at night — until now. Clark Cooper Concepts announced that it will begin serving dinner every other Wednesday starting June 6. The family-style meals include starter, main, and dessert for only $30 (see the full menus for June 6 here and June 20 here).

    Since Marvel has made post-credit scenes all the rage, here’s a little reward for sticking around to the end of the article. Greg Gordon has quietly opened La Vista 101 at 1805 W. 18th St. The updated/relocated version of his beloved Briargrove neighborhood spot features J.D. Woodward (Southern Goods, Goro & Gun) in the kitchen and ex-Coltivare general manager Jeb Stuart overseeing the dining room. “Dig the menu,” a friend who attended May 17’s service texted me.

    Tonkotsu black now being served at Jinya in Champions.

    Jinya Ramen tonkotsu black ramen
    Courtesy photo
    Tonkotsu black now being served at Jinya in Champions.
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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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