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    First Taste

    Houston's next great date spot: New restaurant makes French food modern inlovely Midtown setting

    Sarah Rufca
    Mar 23, 2012 | 11:06 am
    • Artisans is the place to bring a date.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The food at Artisans isn't overwrought. Instead the new Houston restaurantsimply presents a modern take on the French classics.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Artisans chef Jacques Fox
      Artisans Restaurant
    • Artisans' Midtown spot lends itself to quiet conversation.
      Photo via Artisans Restaurant/Facebook
    • Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Photo by Sarah Rufca

    Hiding out in the dim light of a corner booth, I found myself at Artisans situated perfectly between industrial windows facing a relatively quiet Midtown street and a voluble crowd lingering over their meal while speaking in French. If it's too much of a cliché to say that a French restaurant feels authentically Parisian, Artisans — the new spot from the brothers behind Le Mistral — at least feels like an authentic brasserie.

    Despite the focus on a massive, open kitchen — even the private dining room has windows facing the chef's world — I found the atmosphere, with its wood accents and ornate details more suited to wine and quiet conversation in the lovely dining room. It's a great date spot.

    If the styling adheres to a traditional French philosophy, the menu, at least at times, does not. Forget the expected Niçoise salad, there's a Caesar on the menu instead. Or maybe I should call it a "Caesar" instead, with strawberries and tortilla strips in the mix with giant leaves of romaine and virtually no hint of anchovy in the light coating of dressing. Executive chef Jacques Fox said he has been making his version for over a decade, and I won't pretend it's not tasty.

    Artisans may not be breaking any new ground here, but what they do, they do very well.

    It's like a greatest hits salad, pared down, with the sweetness of strawberry and the crunch of the tortilla strips taking the lead.

    The sea scallops were beautifully cooked — as rare as possible without venturing into gelatinous territory — with a heavy crust of caramelized butter on top and a rich but not thick lobster sauce poured at the table (Artisans calls it a "cappuccino" but it didn't look very frothy to me) to reinforce the rich flavors.

    The entrees were also a model of execution. The red snapper Marseillaise-style seared nicely and topped with a thick ragu of mushrooms and microgreens and served over some surprisingly forgettable saffron potato wedges and a light red wine sauce. The beef tenderloin was juicy and flavorful, with a light topping of a spicy peppercorn sauce for a nice contrast.

    A dessert of poached pear followed the same formula — simple ingredients, flawless execution, delicious results. The thin pear slices were accompanied by a slice of an ice cream loaf with a sweet but very solid vanilla center surrounded by a crust of nuts and caramel.

    It's hard to go into complicated odes about the food, partly because it just feels wrong. This isn't overwrought or overthought, it's just a collection of French classics prepared simply and with an eye on modern sensibilities — it's satisfying, not heavy.

    Artisans may not be breaking any new ground here, but what they do, they do very well.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
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