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    Changes at Conservatory

    Downtown food hall nixes noodles for poke, relocates wine bar, adds bakery kiosk

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 22, 2017 | 9:15 am

    Ramen is out and poke is in sounds like the start of a joke about the fickle nature of food trends, but it has also literally happened at Conservatory. The downtown food hall and beer garden recently ended its relationship with ramen shop Samurai Noodle and replaced it with Moku Bar, a poke and tempura concept from Casian King food truck owner Tuan Tran.

    Conservatory owner Anh Mai tells CultureMap that Samurai and Conservatory made a mutual decision to part ways when the ramen shop’s one-year lease expired. He chose to work with Tran after hosting a number of poke pop-ups at the space.

    “He did a pop-up a year ago, and blew the doors out of this place,” Mai says. “It was the most anyone has (sold) for a pop-up. I think he did almost $4,000 in four hours. We knew we had something with him.”

    Tran brings eight years of experience as a sushi chef to his poke, which is reflected in the diverse array of sauces and toppings available. As at more of the new poke restaurants, diners may either build their own bowl or go with a suggested mix of toppings. What’s sets Moku apart, according to Tran, is the way the restaurant prepares its fish.

    “We’re different because we do it the authentic way,” Tran says. “(Some other places) put the sauce right on the fish as they serve it, but we marinade our fish ahead of time. The flavors are absorbed into the fish.”

    To refine the concept, Mai and Tran worked together to develop dishes that fit with Conservatory’s atmosphere of being a place friends can gather for drinks, including poke towers (marinated raw fish on vegetables), spam musubi, and several tempura options. If it all goes well, the concept will get its own brick-and-mortar in the future.

    In addition to adding poke, Mai is making some other changes to Conservatory. First, he’s united all of the individual food concepts within delivery apps, which allows a customer to use an app like DoorDash to order, say, a gyro from Myth Cafe and tacos from El Burro, while only paying one delivery fee. To enhance its appeal to downtown office workers, Conservatory will soon add bicycle deliveries to area offices.

    Structurally, the current greenhouse space beneath the stairs will soon become the Noble Rot wine bar. Relocating the wine from the tap wall frees up some space for a kiosk called Mars Bakery that will serve kolaches and doughnuts in the morning and sandwiches in the afternoon. Baker Maryssa Maize, who has worked at both State of Grace and Fat Cat Creamery, will run Mars with her boyfriend Scott Ache, who currently works at Conservatory as a bartender. Other changes could be coming, but Mai said he isn't ready to announce them yet.

    “We find talent, people we come across, and say let’s do something,” Mai says. Sounds like the perfect summary of Conservatory’s mission, along with serving an interesting mix of food to downtown denizens all day long.

    Moku Bar at Conservatory offers a wide selection of poke and toppings.

    Poke at Moku Bar
    Courtesy photo
    Moku Bar at Conservatory offers a wide selection of poke and toppings.
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    oh bevin

    Houston bartender's new book celebrates cocktails and sexuality

    Craig D. Lindsey
    Apr 14, 2026 | 1:15 pm
    Bevin Biggers Aphro cocktail
    Photo by Troy Ezequiel Montes
    Bevin Biggers writes about sex and cocktails in her new book, Aphro.

    “There's a lot of stigma about sexuality, especially with black women.”

    Louisiana-born, Houston-based mixologist/multidisciplinary artist Bevin Biggers says as she’s flipping through the pages of her literary debut Aphro: A Cocktail Book on the Sexual Response Cycle. A veteran of Houston’s bar and restaurant scene, who has worked nightspots from Montrose to the Heights and collaborated with big-name alcohol brands (and who also isn’t afraid to call out shady establishments), Biggers has created a project that’s part cocktail manual and part Black, female sexuality manifesto.

    “We already have a lot of other s**t going on and then, on top of that, it's sex, too,” says Biggers, while sipping on a drink at a Midtown watering hole. She points out that, when it comes to media representation, Black women have been stuck with many stereotypical caricatures/portrayals throughout the decades: maids, baby mommas, lesbians, jezebels, sistas who are just plain ol’ angry. But as for Black women who freely explore their sexuality with no shame or repercussions, the culture usually comes up empty.

    “[White women] can be explorative and do all these different things. Black women do it and it’s ‘she’s a whore’ or whatever, right? So, all these caricatures kind of negatively impact how we live, and I talk about all of that here,” she says.

    Aphro originally began a decade ago as a bar concept. After years of becoming a pro in the mixology game, even honing her craft-cocktail skills while living in New York (where she became a fan of the city’s Museum of Sex), she wanted to make it a full-fledged business. Unfortunately, this hasn’t been a good time to open a bar (“Bars are expensive,” she confirms).

    Eventually, it morphed into a book project where Biggers drops sex talk, cocktail recipes, and surprising bits of African American history. “There's a lot of Black bartenders back in the day who freed their wives, their children, and themselves from slavery, using bartenderships,” she says.

    The sex lives of African Americans during and after slavery is a subject Biggers has done extensive research on. Last November, she gave her Substack readers an Aphro taste when she posted a lengthy study on chattel slavery and its impact on the orgasm gap. “It's still a real cocktail book – there are still many pages of recipes,” she assures. “But, here, I talk about stereotypes, caricatures of black women, the orgasm gap, chattel slavery, and how things almost connect to current times.” She also included a questionnaire she sent women regarding orgasms. “I asked very specific questions, and I got a lot of f—ed-up answers, which was the whole point ”

    Funded by a grant from Houston Arts Alliance, Biggers worked with Toronto-based Sure Print & Design to put Aphro into book form. She collaborated with local photographer Rosebeth Akharamen in serving up glorious color shots of the suggestively-named cocktails, made from “aphrodisiac ingredients,” Biggers had conceived.

    Drinks range from “Late Night Cinemax,” (consisting of mezcal, corn puree, chipotle honey, coconut, and a popcorn garnish) to “Locally Deflower” (which includes Texas sized herbs and “delicate floral notes to evoke a softer intimacy”). These 20 recipes are the result of Biggers spending over a decade getting to know more about classic cocktails and modern bartending techniques.

    “I come from Hiram Clarke, where it’s just Hennessy, Alize, Crown Royal,” she says. “And, then, when I came to start bartending, I was learning about Fernet and Montenegro and IPAs and good considerations of beers, and I was like, what the hell is all this? But I want to learn. I want to know what y'all know,” she says.

    We also get seductive shots of Biggers herself, all glammed up in several swanky locations, including her own living room. “I didn’t see any of these photos when she took them because we were in a rush, because of the makeup artists, and I had to do my makeup all over again,” she says. “So, this was all trust, and she knocked it out the park.”

    For Biggers, it’s all worth it if her fellow cocoa-colored beauties buy her book and start feeling more grown, Black, and sexy about themselves. “The inspiration is always being curious about this topic, but it was such a big deal in my community, of not wanting to be accused of being fast,” she says. “Even something that's mutual, it's always, what did you do to him? If it's kissing, it’s you kissed him, and it's not like, y'all kissed each other, you know. There was always punishment for something that's kind of natural. Then, when you're curious about something like that, you start to learn about it in dangerous ways… You learn through strangers, because your parents are not telling you anything about this stuff. You learn through movies. You learn through putting viruses on the f—ing computer, because you typed in the wrong thing, and now, the home computer, the family computer is f—ed up.”

    Biggers ordered a limited run of Aphro volumes that she sells on her website, which also has related merch like color prints and an adult coloring book. She still has dreams of turning her book into a watering hole one day. Until then, she’ll continue her mission of instructing women (and men) on how to stir up your sex life – as well as a stiff drink.

    ----

    Biggers will host an Aphro book release party/talk at Los Perros Cafe on Friday, April 17, at 7 pm. RSVP here.


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