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    The CultureMap Interview

    'Nerd king' reveals science of home cooking and geeky delights in popular cookbook and classes

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 24, 2016 | 1:15 pm

    The "nerd king of Internet cooking" is in Texas this week. J. Kenji López-Alt, author of the bestselling cookbook The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science, is teaching a series of sold-out cooking classes at Central Market stores in Houston, Austin, and Dallas.

    López-Alt's celebrity status stems from the work he's published on the Serious Eats website, where his column takes a scientific look at questions such as whether searing a raw steak "seals in the juices" (it doesn't) and the steps necessary to cook the perfect burger (flip frequently!).

    Those recommendations are much, much more are thoroughly documented in The Food Lab, which has been a smash hit since its publication in September. Following in the steps of people like Alton Brown and Mr. Wizard, López-Alt documents not just the hows of better cooking but also the whys. Not a surprising approach considering López-Alt graduated from MIT and describes himself as "part mad scientist, part cook."

    Reviewers have agreed. The New York Times praised the way López-Alt makes "difficult concepts easy to grasp for those of us with a lifelong lack of aptitude for the sciences." Similarly, Epicurious notes that the author understands "the food nerds reading this book almost as much as you understand the way asparagus takes on a melt-in-your-mouth texture at 183°F."

    CultureMap caught up with López-Alt from his home in California. He answered questions about his cookbook's success, why he's teaching an all-breakfast class, and provided some thoughts on whether a hot dog is a sandwich.

    CultureMap: Have people responded to the book the way you anticipated?

    J. Kenji López-Alt: Yes, but on a much bigger scale. From the type of audience the column has, I knew the types of people who would be interested in the book. I never anticipated it would be as popular as it is. It’s a good kind of shock.

    There are some types of people who got interested who I didn't anticipate. I thought it would be most interesting to pop science fans and really nerdy home cooks . . . I didn’t really write it to be a recipe book, but some people use it that way, which is good.

    CM: What recipes are people finding most useful/surprising?

    KLA: A lot of people have mentioned they use my steak technique now. A lot of it is that whole chapter on quick-cooking meat. It really is sort of the ones I was expecting, the classic American dishes: steak, burgers, fried chicken. Potatoes au gratin that I have in there is the most popular recipe . . . It’s all that sort of comfort food. The stuff you don’t eat every day but you want it to be really good when you do.

    CM: What recipes didn’t make this book that you hope to publish in the next one?

    KLA: The book was originally 1600 pages long. It was going to be two, 800-page volumes. We decided at the end to cut it down to one volume. It seemed a little too ambitious to publish two volumes for my first cookbook . . . The first book was mostly American. The second book is going to contain more things like Chinese food, Mexican. Things that are familiar to Americans but come from a different part of the world. The second book will also have a lot of pizza.

    CM: Will you preview some of your pizza secrets?

    KLA: In the book, there’s five different styles of pizza and they’re all unique. For Neapolitan, it’s all about a high temperature . . . The overarching theme is how to make dough properly. I recommend a food processor or a no-knead method to produce superior flavor and texture to a stand mixer.

    CM: You supported the Misen chef's knife Kickstarter. What are the criteria you use when deciding whether to endorse a product?

    KLA: Basically, people send me things all the time. Most of the time I either delete the email or I say thank you and find a way to give it away to someone. This was something that came across my door that looks better than most new knives I’d seen in terms of design. I used it for about a month, and it turns out it’s a really great knife.

    One of the most popular articles I’ve ever done is picking a chef’s knife. The difficult part with knives is it’s easy to get a cheap knife, but cheap knives don’t compare to a good quality knife. Most are $100 or more, a lot more. Finding a sweet spot between a good quality and price is something I’d been looking for. It hit the sweet spot.

    CM: Why did you choose breakfast foods for your class at Central Market?

    KLA: Every time I write about eggs it ends up being one of the most popular articles I’ve written. There’s something about eggs people love to read about. I also think its's the first kind of food most people learn to cook.

    They start out as a mucousy liquid. You can make them hard, you can make them custardy . . . they just have so many uses. It depends on the process. Even with just one egg, you can come up with different textures and process. For someone who’s interested in process, eggs are a great ingredient.

    CM: Finally, Twitter user @NickSeam asks: If Jell-O can be a salad, why can’t a hot dog be a sandwich?

    KLA: I wouldn’t call Jell-O salads real salads (laughs). There is this sort of taxonomic question. If you come up with a sandwich of "sandwich," if you apply it to hot dogs you find out a hot dog is a sandwich. If you ask most people, they’ll say no fucking way (is a hot dog a sandwich). Rather than trying to force people to believe a hot dog is a sandwich, we need to find a new definition of sandwich.

    Portions of this interview have been edited for length and clarity.

    J. Kenji López-Alt is teaching sold-out cooking classes at Central Market.

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    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
    news/restaurants-bars
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