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    Let the Good Wines Roll

    Fat Tuesday, Rodeo style: Best bites ranks up there with any gluttonous wonder

    Heather Staible
    Feb 20, 2012 | 10:07 am

    The Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo has been called our city’s version of Mardi Gras, and by the looks of the Rodeo Uncorked and Best Bites competition at Reliant Center, Fat Tuesday came a few days early. The sold-out event showcased elaborate bites from many of Houston’s best restaurants and celebrated wines from around the world, prompting some to wish there was some stretch in their denim.

    Guests were handed a signature wine glass and Rodeo Uncorked buffet plate upon entering and sent into the circles of food and wine. It was a delicious labyrinth heavy on beef — short rib sliders, sweet meatball lollipops and slow-cooked flank steak. Not to be outdone, there was also duck, lamb, seafood and pork, plus nods to the local Tex-Mex heritage. In all, more than 50 of Houston’s best restaurants filled up plate after plate, impressively serving dishes at the right temperature most of the time.

    It was a delicious labyrinth heavy on beef — short rib sliders, sweet meatball lollipops and slow-cooked flank steak.

    There were ample opportunities to put that wine glass to good use since 2,454 wines from 736 wineries were hoping to land the Grand Champion Best of Show honors. France, Australia, Italy and plenty of domestic varieties were poured, but with all that red meat, cabernet and cabernet blends were popular choices.

    My personal favorite was Texas’ own Becker Vineyards Raven 2009 Petite Verdot. It was jammy, full and a Reserve Class Champion, Texas Class Champion. Glass Wall departed from the wine theme of the night, serving a refreshing and curiously kicky Texas tea that would make an August summer night almost bearable.

    Guests and celebrity judges were tasked with choosing their favorite dishes of the night by placing colorful beads at the restaurant booth of their choice, culminating in the highly-anticipated Best Bites winner circle. Royers Round Top Café, with long line all night, won first place in the Popular Choice category. Previous winner, Hasta la Pasta landed the second place spot.

    In the Trailblazing Appetizer/Entrée Award, Beaucoup Bar & Grill won third place for barbecue shrimp and grits, Straits Asian Bistro and Lounge won for braised Singaporean Spice Short Ribs and Valentino Vin Bar landed the top spot for slow smoked flank steak with fregola and smoky tomato demi-glace.

    Judges eschewed chocolate in favor of fruit and cheese in the Two Stepping Bread/Cheese/Dessert award giving Ooh La La Dessert Boutique’s blackberry pie bars a second place honor. Veldhuizen Cheese once again impressed with its raw milk artisanal cheese, nabbing a first place win.

    Rodeo Uncorked general chairman Stephanie Baird also honored Houston Community College’s culinary students.

    “These students have participated in Best Bites for several years and this year and last year they came close to winning regular competitions against all these chefs,” Baird says. In addition to serving tasso Bites with celery jam and goat cheese on brioche toast, the students were also were awarded a winning belt buckle at this year's event.

    Best Bites ushers in the start of rodeo season and serves as an excellent warm-up for the next big eating event. The World’s Championship Bar-B-Que Contest starts Thursday. I’m seriously considering wearing pajama jeans.

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    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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