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    Foodie News

    One year after the fire, Mai's Restaurant shows off its new look, sets reopeningdate

    Sarah Rufca
    Feb 15, 2011 | 4:41 pm
    • Modern banquettes line the walls at the new Mai's Restaurant.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The new bar, which seats 14, faces the entrance, with the stairs to the newsecond-floor rooms in the background.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • One colorful reminder of Mai: The flowers that she is named after hold courtover the host stand.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Bamboo stalks rise between the banquettes.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca

    The front door at Mai's Restaurant is right where it has always been, facing onto Milam Street and slightly left of center on the Midtown building.

    That probably is a good thing, and not just because Mai, a feng shui master, declared it auspicious. Once inside the doors, there's visually not much else that resembles the original Mai's, one of Houston's first Vietnamese restaurants and one of the most popular until a kitchen fire tore through the restaurant exactly one year ago Tuesday.

    "There were a lot of things we wanted to do but we didn't want to close for more than one day," says Mai Nguyen, whose mother originally opened the restaurant in 1972. "We're so excited to have our family and staff back. We put our work and our dreams into this business. It's hard to even think about that day, about the fire. It is always in my mind and my heart."

    With an April opening date set, the new space is sleek, modern, and open, with more subtle Asian cues and a natural bent. Anna Pham, Mai's third-generation proprietor, says she was inspired by sushi restaurants and steakhouses, mixing trendy with classic.

    The biggest change is immediate: The entrance now contains a two-story atrium and faces straight onto Mai's new, large bar, decked in green glass tiles, natural stone and wood accents. A hostess stand takes the place of the former cashier station and the round tables for groups have been replaced with spacious banquettes in chocolate brown and moss green, with bamboo dividers to up the drama.

    In addition, a staircase to the left of the bar now leads to additional seating upstairs, which will be available to rent for parties or meetings (there's even a projector installed) as well as for overflow seating on Mai's busy late nights.

    "The second floor was the first thing we wanted to do," Pham says. "It was such a waste of space."

    Tran says in addition to the physical makeover, she's also pared down the menu. "It felt overwhelming," she says of the two-hundred plus numbered options, many of which were slight variations on the same dish. In addition to creating a more accessible menu, Tran is adding about 25 new dishes, all of which she refers to as classic Vietnamese comfort food.

    "We wanted to be more true to Vietnamese cuisine," Pham says. "There are certain things we would eat at home that weren't on the menu. Vietnamese cuisine isn't as exotic any more, people know cumin mint from regular mint and they understand more about the flavors. We want to bring in the kind of rich and savory dishes that my grandma raised me on."

    New dishes include quail eggs with pork belly and banh xeo, a Vietnamese crepe made with bean sprout, pork, shrimp, mushrooms and vegetables rolled up and eaten with fish sauce. "This is street food in Hanoi," Pham says.

    Mai's has set a grand opening date of April 16, which also happens to be Tran's birthday. Its selection by a feng shui expert has the ring of destiny, since the original opening date — March 2, 1978 — happened to fall on Mai's birthday.

    Editor's note: CultureMap has followed Mai's rebuild every step of the way. Check out Sarah Rufca's earlier stories:

    Mai's restaurant ablaze in two-alarm fire

    Out of the fire: Mai's restaurant begins rebuilding

    The new, modern Mai's (it's bigger): Anna Tran reveals the rebuilding plans for Midtown icon

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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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