A Goode Man

Houstonians mourn death of restaurateur who transformed culinary scene with authentic Texas BBQ

Since 1977, Goode Co. BBQ has served as a taste of Texas for Houstonians and out-of-towners alike.

Houstonians are mourning the loss of a man who changed the way the city eats. James Douglas "Jim" Goode passed away February 2 at the age of 71 from Alzheimer's, according to a report in the Chronicle.

In 1977, Goode changed Houston's culinary history when he purchased the BBQ Barn on Kirby for $6,000. Slowly, with the help of his uncle Joe Dixie, Goode began to find an audience for the style of barbecue that he enjoyed eating during his childhood on the Gulf Coast. His obituary recalls the day he sold enough food to fill two bags of trash; "he held those bags over his head like the movie Rocky."

Whether for classics like smoked brisket and ribs or more exotic fare like duck, by the mid-'80s, Goode Co. BBQ became the place Houstonians would bring out-of-town friends and family for a taste of authentic Texas barbecue. Dining at Goode's restaurant always included leaving room for a slice of the restaurant's peerless pecan pie. Ultimately, a Goode Co. pecan pie in a wooden box would become a popular holiday treat for homesick Texans everywhere.

In 1983, Goode added Tex-Mex to his offerings by opening Goode Co. Taqueria and Hamburgers across the street from the barbecue restaurant. The mesquite-grilled burgers, tacos, and quail quickly became staples; the sort of place that would be a mandatory stop on the way home from the airport for a taste of Texas.

The addition of Goode Co. Seafood would complete the company's ability to serve Houstonians three of their most favorite types of food: barbecue, Tex-Mex and seafood. Known for its campechana, snapper preparations, and range of Gulf oysters, Goode Co. Seafood became the company's most upscale offering. Jim Goode's lifetime membership in the Coastal Conservation Association also reflected his passion for fishing and the Gulf Coast.

Now with three barbecue restaurants, two seafood restaurants, one Tex-Mex restaurant, the Armadillo Palace live music venue, and a thriving mail-order business, Goode Co. is a fixture of Houston's restaurant scene. "If success in this industry is defined by creating an establishment were folks can feel like they are at home and create lasting memories across generations, Jim Goode nailed it," Pappa Charlies owner Wes Jurena wrote Monday on Facebook.

Goode is survived by his son, Levi, who runs the family business, as well as his wife, Maria Cristina, two daughters, and six grandchildren. Visitation will be held Wednesday from 5 pm to 7 pm at Geo. H. Lewis & Sons, 1010 Bering Drive. Goode's funeral will be Thursday at 3 pm, also at Geo. H. Lewis & Sons.

In lieu of remembrances, the family requests that memorial contributions be sent to Cure Alzheimer's Fund, 34 Washington Street, Suite 200, Wellesley Hills, MA, 02481.

tex-mex barbecue deaths

inspired by Houston's

Houston steakhouse reboots as a more affordable neighborhood restaurant

Michael Sambrooks is ready to unveil the refreshed Andiron. Beginning this Monday, November 25, the fine dining steakhouse will begin operating as the more affordable Andiron Grille & Patio.

“We looked at more neighborhood restaurants [like] Nancy’s Hustle and Nobie’s,” Sambrooks tells CultureMap. “We wanted to fall into that neighborhood restaurant category instead of fine dining and steakhouses. With the patio opening, we wanted to turn it into an eating and drinking place that’s more casual. Seemed like the vibe that would work for the neighborhood.”

To get that everyday appeal, Sambrooks and chef Michael O’Connor worked to decrease the restaurant’s prices by removing luxurious items such as caviar and truffles. Andiron still serves imported Japanese wagyu, but now it’s the chuck instead of strip or ribeye. Overall, diners can expect to spend about $100 per person, which is down from the $150 per person or more of Andiron’s original iteration.

Similar to a restaurant like Hillstone (formerly Houston’s), diners will find steaks at Andiron, but they have other options, too. The restaurant’s prime rib sandwich and decadent wagyu burger both appear on the new menu. They’re joined by a roasted half chicken, pork steak, and Gulf fish with Thai curry.

“People seem to really enjoy [the new menu],” Sambrooks says. “A lot of our neighborhood folks and regulars have come in. They appreciate the value-driven options. A lot of people say they can come more often.”

Another reason they’ll come more often is to enjoy the restaurant’s new patio. Part of the 2,800-square-foot space features lounge-style seating designed for people who want to devote most of their attention to bartender Angel Bautista’s refreshed cocktail offerings. Inspired by his time working at Mexico City’s Handshake Speakeasy — ranked No. 1 in the world by the World’s 50 Best organization — the menu includes a selection of carbonated cocktails that are both refreshing and able to be served quickly.

“We’ve got 75 seats. Some of those are for dining, some are for lounging and cocktailing. About 20 seats are love seats for lounging with a place to put your drink,” Sambrooks says.

“We’re pitching it as a cocktail garden. We want people to walk in, get a seat on the patio, order a couple of cocktails, order a snack or don’t. Just a really great additional space to sit and have a drink.”

The wine list is cheaper, too. Inspired by his time working for restaurateur Bill Floyd at Reef, Sambrooks is selling wine at a much lower markup than before. “We get a deal, we pass that along, even if it’s something we can only get one time,” he says.

Photo by Michael Anthony

Find a steak frites on the new menu at Andiron.

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