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    Food for Thought

    My Tasty Valentine

    Marene Gustin
    Feb 10, 2010 | 12:05 am
    • Houston, you wined and dined me, introducing me to such restaurants as Mark’s,where food became a serious suitor for my affections.
    • The flirtation began at Tex-Mex eateries with happy hour margaritas.
    • You made lunches of salads into events.

    Dear Houston food scene,

    Happy Valentine’s Day.

    How do I tell you how much you mean to me?

    Oh, sure, it wasn’t love at first sight. In those early days so many years ago, struggling writers didn’t dine out a lot, and my first apartment in Houston had a gas leak. So the antique stove made a lovely planter, cradling potted ferns instead of roasting fowl.

    But the flirtation began with your Tex-Mex eateries, from taquerias to the old Westheimer Road location of Armandos, you enticed with happy hour margaritas and big bowls of creamy chili con queso and warm chips. Ah, but we were just getting started.

    Then you began to wine and dine me, introducing me to Cafe Annie and Tony’s and Mark’s, where food became a serious suitor for my affections. You made lunches of salads into events at La Griglia and La Colombe d’Or by adding mounds of lump crabmeat and subtle white wine vinaigrette.

    But you had an exotic side I had yet to savor. Even in your youth you had wonderful Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese flavors to offer. Late afternoons at Nippon were another world where Asian businessmen used to line the sushi bar for sake, cigarettes and sashimi. The clouds of smoke are gone now but you can still get hand rolls as fine as almost anywhere at this little Montrose favorite.

    One of the things I love about you is that you embrace all cultures; you offer restaurants with dishes from Africa to Venezuela and every country in between. Dim sum, kolaches, crepes and fondue, you have it all. Vegetarians can nosh on spicy dishes from Indian buffets spilling over with delicacies while meat-eaters have a plethora of steakhouses and churrascarias.

    And now you've just gone wild showing your food love. Suddenly it seems the city is the place for food. New restaurants popping up almost every week, hot young chefs experimenting with creative cuisines, food blogs, restaurant groupies and groups and then the farmers' markets. How was it I didn't cook before? Now I can’t stop, what with a working stove and a kitchen laden with seasonal local produce, fresh seafood from the Gulf and grass-fed beef. There was a time when food shopping meant a quick stop at a chain grocery store. Now it’s an all day affair starting at the farmers' market and ending at one of the many specialty stores. Was there really a time when I didn’t have four kinds of cheese and three—yes, three—different types of salt on hand?

    Oh, you may have had me at fish tacos, but it was true love when you reinvented regional cuisine. Chefs like David Grossman, Randy Evans and Bryan Caswell are now media darlings being touted in The New York Times and The Daily Beast.

    But don’t let all that national media attention go to your head.

    Please don’t forget who fell for you in your salad days. The ones who loved you when the rest of the world thought you were just about barbecue. We knew you’d be a star some day, and now you’ve lived up to your potential.

    So here’s to you, Houston food scene. You are my valentine.

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    Houston restaurateur's posh Italian spot closes after 4 years in Cypress

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 25, 2026 | 2:59 pm
    Passerella spread
    Photo by Jenn Duncan
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    A Houston-area Italian restaurant has served its last plate of pasta. Passerella Italiano closed after service on Sunday, August 23, co-owner Paul Miller tells CultureMap.

    Located in Cypress at The Boardwalk Towne Lake development, Miller and his wife Doris opened Passerella in May 2022. The restaurant featured a menu of scratch-made Italian fare from chef Ed Roberts (Tony’s, Masraff’s) along with a wide-ranging wine list that leaned on selections from California and Italy. A second location opened on Washington Avenue in May 2023 and closed in March 2025.

    Miller says he received enthusiastic reviews from diners, but the elevated atmosphere meant that customers saw Passerella as more of a place to celebrate a special occasion than an option for a weeknight dinner. That meant the restaurant never drew consistent enough business to remain viable.

    “Weekends were great, but weekdays were not as strong as we would have liked,” Miller explains. “I certainly learned a lot regarding price point, using white tablecloths, style of service, and how we structure our wine lists.”

    The past year has been a challenging one for Miller and his company Gr8 Plate Hospitality. In February, the company converted the Garden Oaks location of The Union Kitchen into a more casual, burger-forward concept called Jax on the Tracks, but it failed to connect with diners and closed in May. Still, Miller is feeling optimistic about the prospects for his other concepts, which includes three locations of The Union Kitchen (Memorial, Cypress, and Kingwood), two locations of Jax Grill (Bellaire and Shepherd south of I-10), and Vine Memorial, a wine bar that opened in 2024.

    “Jax is doing great — counter service with a solid price point. Kids sports teams and groups that have been coming for over 30 years are our core,” Miller says. “At Union, we just started a great lunch menu and are very aggressive on our wine list pricing and happy hour.”

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