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    First Taste

    A new contender for the best pizza in town: West side spot emerges amidHouston's pizza desert

    Sarah Rufca
    Jan 24, 2012 | 11:37 am
    • The large wood-fired oven that dominates the kitchen area at Pizaro's Pizzamakes all the difference.
      Photo via Pizaro's Pizza/Facebook
    • Pizaro's Pizza is out on the west side, but it's worth the trek.
      Photo via Pizaro's Pizza/Facebook
    • "The pizzas are about 12 inches in diameter — just small enough to eat the wholething, but big enough to swear not to make the same mistake next time."
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Photo by Sarah Rufca

    Finally, I found the pizza I've been waiting for.

    Dolce Vita's ultra-thin and crispy version is always a good option, I like the creative toppings at Alto and I've been known to drive to Sugar Land for Grimaldi's. (I pretend it's the original Grimaldi's I used to go to under the Brooklyn Bridge, but the corny subway signs don't help very much.)

    It's only been a couple months since Pizaro's Pizza opened in a nondescript shopping center on Memorial Drive and Kirkwood, but the simple and delicious pies they make are already some of the best in town.

    The pizzas are about 12 inches in diameter — just small enough to eat the whole thing, but big enough to swear not to make the same mistake next time.

    What makes the difference is a crust that manages to be both thin and fluffy at the same time. That's partly because Pizaro's uses the famed "00" flour, partly due to the skill of owners Bill and Gloria Hutchinson, who are certified by Italy's Verace Pizza Napoletana in the traditional Neapolitan style, and partly because of the large wood-fired oven that dominates the kitchen area. The oven, which heats up to 900 degrees, gives just a touch of char on the crust — not enough by my New York-influenced standards, but not too much for the char-averse Houston palate.

    The menu is relatively short, with a few salads and about a dozen pizzas from the classic (margherita) to some slightly more fusion ideas, like the Sweetpea with caramelized onion, roasted bell peppers, olive oil and mozzarella.

    I started with the Campania, with Pomodoro tomatoes, mushrooms, artichokes, prosciutto and mozzarella. Normally that many ingredients could overwhelm a thin crust pizza, but the toppings were distributed lightly. Instead of competing for attention, one bite would have an earthy, mushroom focus, while another would be led by the salty-sweet prosciutto. If I had a complaint, it would be that the tomatoes were a bit wimpy.

    Even better was a specialty pizza with olive oil, mounds of ricotta, thinly sliced fennel sausage and a sprinkling of basil leaves, which really let the pillowy dough shine.

    The pizzas are about 12 inches in diameter — just small enough to eat the whole thing, but big enough to swear not to make the same mistake next time. Spoiler alert: I will make the same mistake again next time. And it will be so worth it.

    It's tempting to veer into hyperbole because a pizzeria that balances smart toppings with flavorful dough and a just-right oven is strangely hard to find in Houston. In a town that can boast three Tex-Mex restaurants at a single intersection should have pizza just like this in every zip code, if not on every block.

    But until it does, I'll be heading to the west side for my fix.

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    a major award

    California-inspired Houston restaurant makes Robb Report best new list

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 16, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    Zaranda restaurant exterior
    Photo by Paula Murphy
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    A Houston restaurant is basking in the national spotlight. Robb Report named Zaranda, chef Hugo Ortega’s California-inspired downtown restaurant, to its list of The 10 Best New Restaurants in America.

    Published Tuesday, June 16, Zaranda ranks No. 10 on the list. Culinary editor Jeremy Repanich hails Ortega and his wife/business partner Tracy Vaught, writing that Zaranda “may be their best restaurant yet,” which is lofty praise considering their H-Town Restaurant Group also includes Hugo’s, Caracol, Urbe, and Xochi. It's the only Texas restaurant on the list, which is topped by Lilo, a 24-seat tasting counter in Carlsbad, CA.

    “Their take on Las Californias cooking incorporates influences of Asia: In the aguachile negro, for example, lime-cured shrimp has the salty punch of soy sauce,” Repanich writes. “At this seafood-focused restaurant, the whole-grilled fish is a must. It’s served with a trio of excellent sauces, from the salsa verde with its sharp acidity to the charred-tomato salsa that has a rounder, fruitier, and smokier flavor profile.”

    Ortega and Vaught opened Zaranda in October 2025. Located next to Discovery Green in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower, the restaurant is named for a wire basket used to cook seafood over an open flame. It has earned significant praise, including a nomination for Best New Restaurant in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, a spot on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s best new restaurants, and an honorable mention on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 25 best new taquerias.

    Repanich writes that the restaurants that intrigued him most over the past year were smaller and more intimate than places he’s selected in previous years. He mentions Perseid, Aaron Bludorn’s restaurant in Houston’s Hotel Saint Augustine, as one example of that style of restaurant that just missed making the list.

    “Nevertheless, plenty of kitchens that did make the cut share that same intimacy, with artful, unfussy cooking; even the handful of tasting-menu spots revealed a softer, lighter side of fine dining,” Repanich writes. “Ultimately, that’s what the 10 best new restaurants in America for 2026 have in common: a refined sense of play that stays with you long after the meal is over.”

    Robb Report frequently includes Houston restaurants on its best new list. In 2024, upscale sushi restaurant Katami made the list, as did Navy Blue and Jūn in 2023 and March in 2022. It also named James Beard Award winner (and CultureMap wine columnist) Chris Shepherd the best chef in the world in 2019.

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