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    something's cooking

    Former Houston chef rebrands with casual new Hill Country bistro

    John Egan
    Jan 11, 2021 | 4:33 pm

    An acclaimed former local chef is tantalizing the Austin-area restaurant scene with a new eatery in Wimberley.

    Chef Ryan Hildebrand stunned Houston in November 2019 when he exited his famed FM Kitchen & Bar. Now a newly minted Wimberley resident, Hildebrand is collaborating with two childhood buddies on Hildee’s Dine-Inn, with the name incorporating his and his grandfather’s nicknames. Hildebrand describes the concept as a “Hill Country bistro.”

    “I can’t really think of a word other than bistro that leaves it open to interpretation. I don’t love the word bistro, but it gives you the ability to do everything,” Hildebrand tells CultureMap. “I used to call it a smokehouse, but people would immediately think that it’s a barbecue restaurant. And that’s not what it is at all.”

    Hildebrand says he and his wife and their two young daughters settled in Wimberley after regularly visiting the Hill Country town as a getaway destination when they lived in Houston.

    The chef has been working as hospitality consultant since his departure from FM Kitchen & Bar. He and his business partners purchased an undeveloped 1.6-acre plot in Wimberley a little over a year ago as a potential restaurant site. Today, Hildebrand is juggling this new venture and his consulting projects.

    “I’m at a point in my career where I really wanted to step back into the kitchen a little more and get back to the roots of why I started all of this,” says Hildebrand, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America.

    Renderings for Hildee’s, which will be on Winters Mill Parkway near Blue Hole Regional Park and Cypress Creek, show a no-nonsense rectangular structure with a rustic-looking brown exterior, a large outdoor porch, and a minimalist interior supplying plenty of natural light pouring through large windows.

    Austin-based Maker Architects is designing the restaurant. The firm’s other work includes Vinaigrette, the South Congress and Kimber SOCO hotels, and Central Machine Works.

    Hildebrand says the restaurant, with more than 5,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space, will feature a full kitchen as well as a full bar with cocktails, wine, and beer. It’s being geared toward brunch, lunch, and dinner service, as well as small private events like wedding rehearsal dinners.

    Hildee’s menu will marry inspiration from both FM Kitchen & Bar and Triniti, the now-shuttered high-end Houston eatery where Hildebrand was chef. The new Wimberley spot will blend the laidback vibe of a smokehouse with touches of fine dining, Hildebrand says.

    “I don’t want it to be uncomfortable. It’s very casual, very comfortable — just like Wimberley,” he says. “I really wanted to do something that worked well in Wimberley, that people can enjoy when they’re coming off the river or they’re camping and hiking or they want to have a nicer dinner.”

    Items on the Hildee’s menu will include soup, salad, steak, brisket, smoked salmon, trout, quail, venison, fajitas, black pepper potato muffins, and burnt-ends rangoon. Hildebrand also plans to offer weekend picnic baskets packed with foods like fried chicken and fixins.

    “We’re doing a style of restaurant that nobody else is doing out there,” Hildebrand says.

    Construction on Hildee’s is tentatively set to start in February, with the restaurant on track for a July or August opening, according to Hildebrand. The restaurant, staffed by roughly two dozen people, will operate Wednesday through Sunday.

    Hildee’s Dine-Inn blends indoor and outdoor dining.

    Hildee\u2019s Dine-Inn rendering
    Rendering courtesy of Maker Architects
    Hildee’s Dine-Inn blends indoor and outdoor dining.
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    Houston's smallest restaurant?

    Michelin-recognized Houston sushi chef fires up 4-seat Japanese skewer spot

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 6, 2026 | 1:40 pm
    Sip & Skewer restaurant
    Courtesy of Sip & Skewer
    Diners sit in front of chefs cooking on a grill.

    The team behind one of Houston’s Michelin-recognized sushi restaurants is opening an intimate new izakaya. Sip & Skewer is the newest concept from Hidden Omakase owner Tuan Tran and chef Marcos Juarez.

    Opening Friday, February 13, Sip & Skewer is a four-seat restaurant devoted to skewered meats that’s located within Sushi by Hidden, the group’s affordable omakase restaurant in Rice Village. At Sip & Skewer, diners sit across from the chefs as they cook a 10-course, $90 meal on a Japanese binchotan grill.

    “Sip & Skewer is small, loud, and intentional. The kind of hidden experience you’d find in Tokyo,” Tran said. “And with Chef Marcos guiding the team at Sushi by Hidden, this space is getting new energy from every angle.”

    A four-seat restaurant within a 10-seat restaurant might seem kind of superfluous, but Tran explains that it’s part of a larger plan for his group of restaurants, which also includes West U. hand roll restaurant Norigami. It also builds on the success of Hidden Omakase, the Galleria-area sushi counter that earned a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide.

    “Sip & Skewer is part of a larger vision. It’s designed as a stepping stone toward our next concept, Kōri, a new hand roll and craft cocktail bar opening in the Heights. Our plan is to open Sip & Skewer directly next to our hand roll spot, creating a small alley of Japanese concepts that feed into one another,” Tran explains.

    “This allows us to build awareness, train our team in a new format, and introduce guests to Japanese charcoal grilling in a very personal way before we scale the idea into a larger setting with Kōri. The four-seat format keeps overhead extremely low while serving as a live test kitchen and brand builder for what’s coming next,” he adds.

    On a related note, Juarez and the other chefs at Hidden Omakase are dividing their time between all three restaurants. Tuam explains that it’s a deliberate strategy to ensure a consistent customer experience.

    “The same team that works Michelin-recognized omakase service also runs the grill here, which keeps quality and execution consistent while allowing the chefs a creative outlet in a very different format,” Tran said. “Because Sip & Skewer is only four seats and reservations only, it does not require a dedicated full-time staff. It’s an extension of the team rather than a separate operation.”

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