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    Eat Your Heart Out

    Houston chefs share their cold-weather recipes, part II

    Sarah Rufca
    Jan 10, 2010 | 7:00 am
    • Backstreet Cafe's Meatloaf Tower by Chef Hugo Ortega
      Photo by Paula Murphy
    • An old-time favorite, baked potato soup served with cornbread

    It's the time of year when the best dinners are made with love and served at home. Give the dining scene (and Takeout Taxi) a night off and break out the cookware and the nice china. Need inspiration? We asked chefs at some of the best places around town for their favorite cold-weather recipes, and they delivered. Go ahead, try on your own chef's hat. If it doesn't turn out how you hope, the real deal is just a short drive away. For our second gathering, we have more soups (duh) plus a couple comfort foods that hit the spot when it's cold just as well.

    Chez Nous's Soup au Fromage, by co-owner Scott Simonson

    INGREDIENTS:

    1 leek, whites only

    1 large yellow onion
    
2 tbsp. butter (the more milk fat, the better)

    1 tbsp. garlic, chopped

    1 qt. rich chicken stock

    1# comte

    1# tomme de savoie
    
½ cup to 1 cup Kirschwasser (cherry brandy)
    
Salt and white pepper.

    PREPARATION:
    
Wash leeks and dice small along with yellow onion, sweat leeks and onions in the butter, covered on low, for about an hour. (You want to get a nice bit of natural juice from the steam). 

    Add the garlic and increase heat to medium, stirring to get garlic going about 5 min. You do not want any color from caramelizing on the vegetables.

    Deglaze with ½ cup Kirschwasser and add stock, bring to boil then reduce to a soft boil. 

    Have your cheese cut in small pieces and start adding it into soup slowly while stirring constantly. 

    Once all the cheese is added, season with salt & pepper to taste and remove from heat. 

    This soup may look like its broken, that’s ok because were going blend it now. Once blended, check the taste and add more Kirschwasser and salt/pepper if necessary.
    
Serve with julienne Belgian endive and toasted walnuts along with some good crunchy bread! 

    Get a Vin de Savoie, Roussette or Appremont, or if you must stray from the region, any bone dry white should do.

    Gigi's Asian Bistro's Poor Man's Noodles, by executive chef Junnajet Hurapan

    INGREDIENTS:
    ½ cup oil
    5 sliced assorted mushrooms
    2 oz. garlic chives, batton
    ½ oz. sliced shallots
    ½ tsp. red chili flakes
    3 cut cherry tomatos
    ½ oz. bean sprouts
    1 lb. sliced beef
    1 lb. cut 1-inch chow fun noodles
    2 tsp. mushroom soy sauce

    PREPARATION:
    In a wok, add the oil and heat
    When hot sear the mushrooms and beef until golden
    Add the shallots and cook until tender
    Add the garlic chives, cherry tomato, bean sprout and the chili and wilt slightly
    Season with salt, pepper and mushroom soy sauce

    Backstreet Cafe's Meatloaf Tower, by chef Hugo Ortega

    Meatloaf
    1 lb. ground veal
    1 lb. ground beef
    4 whole eggs
    ¼ cup breadcrumbs
    1 tsp. Cajun seasoning
    1 tsp. ground oregano
    ¼ cup parsley
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Beat eggs and mix with other ingredients. Form into loaf and bake free form or in loaf pan at 375 degrees for 35 to 45 minutes or until done when tested with toothpick.

    Mashed Potatoes
    6 Idaho potatoes
    2 tbsp. roasted chopped garlic
    ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
    ¼ cup heavy cream
    ¼ lb. butter
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Peel and boil potatoes until done. Add remaining ingredients and mash well. If putting through pastry tip, whip the potatoes till smooth.

    Wild Mushroom Gravy
    6 tbsp. olive oil
    3 tbsp. chopped garlic
    2 cups sliced assorted mushrooms (button, crimini, shitake)
    1 tbsp. fresh thyme
    1 tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped
    1 tbsp. chives, minced
    1 tsp. fresh sage, chopped
    2 cups heavy cream
    1 cup red wine
    ¼ cup Worcestershire
    3 tbsp. cold butter
    2 cups demiglace

    Heat olive oil on garlic pan. Add garlic and mushrooms; sauté and release water from mushrooms. Add heavy cream, red wine, Worcestershire and demiglace; reduce by half. Add fresh herbs and butter to finish.

    Spinach
    3 lbs. spinach
    1 tbsp. garlic, chopped
    3 tbsp. olive oil
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Clean and trim spinach. Heat olive oil in large pan; add garlic and sauté. Add spinach and sauté just until it gives way. Discard excess juice and set aside.

    To assemble Meatloaf Tower:
    Place bed of spinach in center of plate and spoon sauce around outer edge. Place slice of meatloaf on top and pipe rosettes of potatoes with pastry bag, forming a tower, on top of meatloaf. If not using pastry bag, place "mounds" of potatoes on meatloaf in same fashion.

    Byrd’s Market & Cafe's Texas Baked Potato Soup

    INGREDIENTS:
    5 lbs. baked Russet potatoes (diced)
    4 cups heavy whipping cream
    1 cup chicken stock
    4 tbsp. butter
    2 tbsp. granulated garlic
    2 red bell peppers (diced)
    4 fresh jalapeños (diced)
    2 cups diced bacon
    1 tsp. chili pepper
    1 tsp. paprika
    Salt and pepper to taste

    PREPARATION:
    Combine potatoes, cream and chicken stock in a food processor and briefly to combine yet leave potato chunks
    Melt butter in pot
    Add mixed ingredients to butter in pot
    Add vegetables and spices to mix
    Cook at medium heat stirring constantly for 30 minutes or until bubbles on top
    Top with white cheddar cheese and sever with fresh baguette from Byrd’s Market

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    Hot Houston hand roll spot is first restaurant at new EaDo development

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 14, 2026 | 4:15 pm
    Handies Douzo
    Handies Douzo Facebook
    undefined

    Houstonians with a seemingly unlimited appetite for sushi hand rolls will soon have another destination to satisfy their cravings. Handies Douzo will open its next location in East Blocks, an adaptive reuse project in EaDo.

    On track to open in late 2026 or early 2027 at 1107 Hutchins Street, the EaDo location will be Handies Douzo’s fifth, joining the original in the Heights as well as restaurants in Montrose, Spring Branch, and an upcoming outpost in Uptown’s new Central Park Post Oak development. Like those siblings, it will serve Handies’ familiar menu of hand rolls (temaki), crudos, and sashimi that’s overseen by founding chefs and co-owners Daniel Lee and Patrick Pham. The 2,000-square-foot space will feature Handies’ familiar U-shaped counter seating.

    Handies is known for wrapping its rolls in crispy seaweed that gives each bite a distinct crunch. The well-executed dishes and affordable prices helped Handies earn a nomination for Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

    "We've been very intentional about where we grow, and East Blocks immediately stood out," Pham and Lee said in a statement. "There's an authenticity to EaDo and a strong sense of community that aligns with our brand. We're excited to be part of a project focused on creating an energetic, walkable destination."

    1107 Hutchins rendering Handies will occupy 2,000 square feet at 1107 Hutchins.Courtesy of Pagewood

    1107 Hutchins and the nearby 2202 Dallas — each of which are 15,000 square feet — represent phase one of local real estate firm Pagewood’s plans to East Blocks. First announced in 2023, plans call for renovating warehouses into a walkable district of shops, restaurants, offices, and green space. Gensler is leading architecture and design for the project, with landscape architecture by SWA.

    "East Blocks reflects a long-term belief in EaDo and the kind of place it’s becoming," said Mat Volz, Managing Principal of PAGEWOOD. "As the project has evolved, our commitment to that vision has only strengthened. Breaking ground on Phase 1 is an exciting step forward, particularly as this neighborhood prepares to welcome the world. With the FIFA Fan Festival taking place just steps from East Blocks and bringing thousands of visitors daily to EaDo, we see this project playing a meaningful role in that energy and in the long-term evolution of the district."

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