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    Eat Your Heart Out

    Houston chefs share their cold-weather recipes, part II

    Sarah Rufca
    Jan 10, 2010 | 7:00 am
    • Backstreet Cafe's Meatloaf Tower by Chef Hugo Ortega
      Photo by Paula Murphy
    • An old-time favorite, baked potato soup served with cornbread

    It's the time of year when the best dinners are made with love and served at home. Give the dining scene (and Takeout Taxi) a night off and break out the cookware and the nice china. Need inspiration? We asked chefs at some of the best places around town for their favorite cold-weather recipes, and they delivered. Go ahead, try on your own chef's hat. If it doesn't turn out how you hope, the real deal is just a short drive away. For our second gathering, we have more soups (duh) plus a couple comfort foods that hit the spot when it's cold just as well.

    Chez Nous's Soup au Fromage, by co-owner Scott Simonson

    INGREDIENTS:

    1 leek, whites only

    1 large yellow onion
    
2 tbsp. butter (the more milk fat, the better)

    1 tbsp. garlic, chopped

    1 qt. rich chicken stock

    1# comte

    1# tomme de savoie
    
½ cup to 1 cup Kirschwasser (cherry brandy)
    
Salt and white pepper.

    PREPARATION:
    
Wash leeks and dice small along with yellow onion, sweat leeks and onions in the butter, covered on low, for about an hour. (You want to get a nice bit of natural juice from the steam). 

    Add the garlic and increase heat to medium, stirring to get garlic going about 5 min. You do not want any color from caramelizing on the vegetables.

    Deglaze with ½ cup Kirschwasser and add stock, bring to boil then reduce to a soft boil. 

    Have your cheese cut in small pieces and start adding it into soup slowly while stirring constantly. 

    Once all the cheese is added, season with salt & pepper to taste and remove from heat. 

    This soup may look like its broken, that’s ok because were going blend it now. Once blended, check the taste and add more Kirschwasser and salt/pepper if necessary.
    
Serve with julienne Belgian endive and toasted walnuts along with some good crunchy bread! 

    Get a Vin de Savoie, Roussette or Appremont, or if you must stray from the region, any bone dry white should do.

    Gigi's Asian Bistro's Poor Man's Noodles, by executive chef Junnajet Hurapan

    INGREDIENTS:
    ½ cup oil
    5 sliced assorted mushrooms
    2 oz. garlic chives, batton
    ½ oz. sliced shallots
    ½ tsp. red chili flakes
    3 cut cherry tomatos
    ½ oz. bean sprouts
    1 lb. sliced beef
    1 lb. cut 1-inch chow fun noodles
    2 tsp. mushroom soy sauce

    PREPARATION:
    In a wok, add the oil and heat
    When hot sear the mushrooms and beef until golden
    Add the shallots and cook until tender
    Add the garlic chives, cherry tomato, bean sprout and the chili and wilt slightly
    Season with salt, pepper and mushroom soy sauce

    Backstreet Cafe's Meatloaf Tower, by chef Hugo Ortega

    Meatloaf
    1 lb. ground veal
    1 lb. ground beef
    4 whole eggs
    ¼ cup breadcrumbs
    1 tsp. Cajun seasoning
    1 tsp. ground oregano
    ¼ cup parsley
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Beat eggs and mix with other ingredients. Form into loaf and bake free form or in loaf pan at 375 degrees for 35 to 45 minutes or until done when tested with toothpick.

    Mashed Potatoes
    6 Idaho potatoes
    2 tbsp. roasted chopped garlic
    ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
    ¼ cup heavy cream
    ¼ lb. butter
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Peel and boil potatoes until done. Add remaining ingredients and mash well. If putting through pastry tip, whip the potatoes till smooth.

    Wild Mushroom Gravy
    6 tbsp. olive oil
    3 tbsp. chopped garlic
    2 cups sliced assorted mushrooms (button, crimini, shitake)
    1 tbsp. fresh thyme
    1 tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped
    1 tbsp. chives, minced
    1 tsp. fresh sage, chopped
    2 cups heavy cream
    1 cup red wine
    ¼ cup Worcestershire
    3 tbsp. cold butter
    2 cups demiglace

    Heat olive oil on garlic pan. Add garlic and mushrooms; sauté and release water from mushrooms. Add heavy cream, red wine, Worcestershire and demiglace; reduce by half. Add fresh herbs and butter to finish.

    Spinach
    3 lbs. spinach
    1 tbsp. garlic, chopped
    3 tbsp. olive oil
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Clean and trim spinach. Heat olive oil in large pan; add garlic and sauté. Add spinach and sauté just until it gives way. Discard excess juice and set aside.

    To assemble Meatloaf Tower:
    Place bed of spinach in center of plate and spoon sauce around outer edge. Place slice of meatloaf on top and pipe rosettes of potatoes with pastry bag, forming a tower, on top of meatloaf. If not using pastry bag, place "mounds" of potatoes on meatloaf in same fashion.

    Byrd’s Market & Cafe's Texas Baked Potato Soup

    INGREDIENTS:
    5 lbs. baked Russet potatoes (diced)
    4 cups heavy whipping cream
    1 cup chicken stock
    4 tbsp. butter
    2 tbsp. granulated garlic
    2 red bell peppers (diced)
    4 fresh jalapeños (diced)
    2 cups diced bacon
    1 tsp. chili pepper
    1 tsp. paprika
    Salt and pepper to taste

    PREPARATION:
    Combine potatoes, cream and chicken stock in a food processor and briefly to combine yet leave potato chunks
    Melt butter in pot
    Add mixed ingredients to butter in pot
    Add vegetables and spices to mix
    Cook at medium heat stirring constantly for 30 minutes or until bubbles on top
    Top with white cheddar cheese and sever with fresh baguette from Byrd’s Market

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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