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    Cliff Notes

    Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta & Marc Jacobs look to an imperfect world forfashion week surprises

    Clifford Pugh
    Sep 16, 2011 | 9:08 am
    • Although it used modern fabrics, Jacobs' collection had a bit of a Depressionera theme.
      Photo by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
    • Ralph Lauren's first look was near perfect, except for a tattered sweater.
    • Ralph Lauren's last look was a striking ivory tulle beaded dress that usednetting as an illlusion
      Photo by Peter Michael Dill/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
    • The look that closed the Oscar de la Renta show: Champagne crush pleated silktulle draped gown with rose silk taffeta bow
      Photo by Dan and Corina Lecca
    • Oscar de la Renta metallic pleated changeant lame gown
      Photo by Dan and Corina Lecca
    • Oscar de la Renta cobalt silk crinkle chiffon tiered ruffle gown
      Photo by Dan and Corina Lecca
    • Marc Jacobs closed his show with a silver texturized fabric that looks likealumnium foil.
      Photo by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

    NEW YORK — Here's a shocker: Everything is not perfect in the perfect world of Ralph Lauren.

    At first glance, the first look of his spring/summer 2012 collection was flawless: The model appeared on a sparkling all-white runway in a soft floral skirt, green tank top, pale blue cardigan, pink cloche hat and chunky raffia wedge heels, with a straw handbag as big as a picnic basket.

    Upon a closer look, however, I noticed the cardigan was frayed with huge holes at the shoulder and arms. It seemed the perfect metaphor for the spring outlook at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: With the economy in tatters, the world is not as perfect as it may seem, even for the customer who can afford just about anything.

    It seemed the perfect metaphor for the spring outlook at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: With the economy in tatters, the world is not as perfect as it may seem, even for the customer who can afford just about anything.

    Or perhaps I'm making a bigger deal of it all, for there wasn't a trace of imperfection in the rest of Lauren's sunny collection, although it did have a bit of Depression-era vibe, with 1920s hats, art deco crystal details and Jean Harlow satin gowns.

    When a designer shows more than 40 looks, the collection usually drags. But even though Lauren featured 58 looks, the show moved along swiftly, perhaps because he lays it out in crafted segments.

    The first 10 looks were a terrific mix of pastel separates: Wide leg trousers, below-the-knee skirts and lightweight cardigans in shades of celery, robin's egg blue and soft pink, with strong accessories, like an fringe, over-the-shoulder scarf bag.

    (A day earlier at a preview for a select group of reporters at the Ralph Lauren store on Manhattan's Upper East side, a full range of spring accessories was on display, including intricately crocheted high heels, wicker handbags, satin belts and vintage jewelry.)

    Then Lauren switched to an all-white mode, with glossy silk dresses, cardigans with ostrich feathers and strong menswear-inspired three-piece suits. He alternated frilly feminine looks with ultra-masculines styles in a gender bender display before returning to a series of gorgeous silver-beaded gowns that would have been in place in a high-style Depression era movie starring Fred and Ginger.

    The closing number was a master of illusion: A beaded gown with a plunging, to-the-navel neckline held together by nude netting that managed to look classy and sexy at the same time.

    From Lauren, we wouldn't expect anything less.

    Oscar de la Renta: Taking care of unfinished business

    Everything in Oscar de la Renta's world is also usually orderly. Like Lauren, de la Renta is a master of detail who doesn't like surprises. At his show, he can often be seen standing just off the runway, inspecting each model to make sure she measures up to his high standard of perfection.

    So it was a refreshing change to traipse to the 25th floor of a midtown Manhattan skyscraper and find de la Renta's world a little messed up.

    The stark surroundings proved to be a nice backdrop for de la Renta's eclectic collection that ranged from lace peasant dresses to poofy ball gowns.

    He has moved his showroom to the art deco era building, and I'm sure by next year, it will be a flawless showcase for buyers and the fashion press. But it's not finished out yet, so de la Renta showed his spring collection amid whitewashed walls with exposed pipes, large windows that allowed in natural light and faulty air-conditioning that couldn't keep pace with the sizable crowd, which included Justin Timberlake, Barbara Walters, Valentino, Nicki Minaj and one of the Olsen twins (even after all these years, I still can't tell them apart).

    The stark surroundings proved to be a nice backdrop for de la Renta's eclectic collection that ranged from lace peasant dresses to poofy ball gowns. With models in crimped hair and Led Zeppelin music on the sound system, it was hard to determine what decade the show was in. But the results were a lot of up-to-date looks for his loyal clientele who expect to be dazzled, along with some surprises to broaden his customer base.

    Unlike other designers, de la Renta doesn't have a specific theme — he is one of the few remaining designers who still believes in dressing a woman from morning to night. He opened with a bang, as models in flowing silk taffeta skirts in colors of marigold, emerald and tomato red walked the runway, before settling down with an eclectic mix of daytime wear — lace dresses, daffodil-patterned skirts, tweed blazers. Along the way, he also showed crochet suits, dresses dripping with ostrich feathers and even harem pants.

    But ball gowns remain his speciality and the range was breathtaking, from metallic column gowns to tulle-and-taffeta confections.

    After the show ended, Timberlake proved to be a real gentleman, posing for photos with anyone who asked. Seems like some stars know how to handle success.

    Marc Jacobs: All that jazz
    Marc Jacobs moved his show from a customary Monday night position to late Thursday evening — the last slot on the fashion week calendar — because he said that Hurricane Irene had messed up his production schedule. It seemed odd to me that the rest of the fashion world can stay on schedule, but Jacobs can't. However, after viewing his collection, I can see where the extra time was needed.
    Jacobs constantly leads the way in innovation and his spring collection is a masterpiece of fabrication even if the looks are likely to leave shoppers cold. He featured dresses made from transparent shrink-wrap cellophane and silk-woven Christmas tree tinsel, skirts of silicone fringe and coats of fabric that resembles aluminum foil. The shoes range from clear ankle boots to retro two-tone penny loafers.
    Jacobs constantly leads the way in innovation and his spring collection is a masterpiece of fabrication even if the looks are likely to leave shoppers cold.
    In a nod to Bob Fosse, the show opened and closed with the array of models in stylized "All That Jazz" poses on chairs, with Jacobs as the "director" in the background. Nars cosmetics founder François Nars said that Jacobs showed him images of Amy Winehouse, Pasty Cline and the Broadway musical Sweet Charity for inspiration for the makeup.
    "Because the girls are to be staring into the eyes of the audience when the curtain opens, we decided to focus on the eyes. We were inspired by this book from the 1960s, Cowboy Kate, whose character wore false eyelashes and Marc mentioned Bob Fosse and so it was really important to make the girls look like dancers, to treat them like characters not models. The skin is meant to look like it is dewy, like the girls have been dancing - it's very Cabaret," Nars said in a statement, adding that he used three sets of eyelashes for each model.
    Like Lauren, Jacobs seems to be hinting at the unsettled times, since Cabaret recalls another turbulent time in the 1930s when economic chaos reigned. But for all the technical excellence and the models' odd touches (they wore Rosie the Riveter bandanas on their heads), the collection has a harsh, cold feeling.
    Jacobs' designs have never sold well in Houston, a buyer for a major retailer recently told me, because his clothes simply aren't sexy enough for a Texas clientele. But he always sets trends, so his influence is likely to be felt next spring, as other designers emulate his looks.
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    HOTTEST HEADLINES OF 2025

    Celeb's Texas-sized ring dazzles in our top 10 fashion stories of 2025

    Gabi De la Rosa
    Dec 24, 2025 | 2:00 pm
    Zac Brown and Kendra Scott engagement
    Photo courtesy of Kendra Scott
    Kendra Scott's million dollar engagement ring crafted by a Houston jeweler tops Houston's most-read fashion articles of 2025.

    Editor’s note: Houston’s shopping and style scene delivered plenty to talk about this year, with headline-making jewels, must-have accessories, major retail moves, and Texas-sized collaborations. Readers couldn’t get enough of a million-dollar pink diamond crafted by a Houston jeweler for Zac Brown and Kendra Scott, the Labubu frenzy, and the arrival of luxury brands in River Oaks District. New flagships from beloved Texas brands, summer shopping guides, and the return of the Nutcracker Market, along with news of a Macy’s local closure also topped the year's must-read articles. Here's a look back at the stories that captured the Bayou City's love of luxury, hometown pride, and constantly changing retail landscape.

    1. Houston jeweler supplies star Zac Brown with a Texas-sized diamond ring. Country superstar Zac Brown popped the question to billionaire jewelry mogul Kendra Scott with a one-of-a-kind creation from Houston jeweler Valobra Master Jewelers. The jaw-dropping 3.06 carat fancy pink diamond (GIA certified, VVS2 clarity) was set in platinum gold and surrounded by 28 baguette-cut white diamonds totaling 3.17 carats. The jeweler wouldn't comment on the price, but it would surely retail for over $1 million.

    2. Loveable Labubu: Where to find the must-have fashion accessory in Houston. Love them or hate them, these tiny monsters broke the internet with the April release of Big Into Energy Labubu. Lucky Houstonians who were able to buy one online flocked to area stores in Sugar Land and The Woodlands for their pick-up-only purchases.

    3. 2 luxury jewelers unveil flagship boutiques in River Oaks District. With VIP salons, ornate decor, and luxury jewelry, two French jewelry houses made an entrance in River Oaks District this summer. Joining the neighborhood's luxury lineup, shoppers can now buy their baubles from Cartier and Van Cleef.

    4. Colorful Texas handbag maker opens new flagship store in Katy. Popular handbag brand Consuela opened its first Houston-area store at La Centerra in Cinco Ranch, Katy. Shoppers can now get their hands on the bold, colorful printed bags and accessories without a long drive or an online checkout.

    5. Macy's to shutter dozens of stores nationwide, including 1 in Houston. As part of a strategy to make Macy's profitable again, the store shuttered six Texas stores, including a longtime location at Almeda Mall. Five DFW stores also went dark, and by early 2026, the retailer will have closed 150 "unproductive" locations nationwide.

    6. Where to shop right now: 12 Houston shops with fresh summer finds. Amid back-to-school shopping and the August 8 sales tax holiday, Houstonians were especially interested in where to find the best deals at local retailers, including Chloe Dao, Mejuri, Reformation, Abejas Boutique, and more.

    7. Houston bootmaker offers $5,000 cowboy boot and gator hunt adventure. For $5,000, Houstonians can now source an alligator hide near Anahuac that will be transformed into a pair of bespoke cowboy boots by Republic Boot Company.

    8. What to know about the return of Houston's Nutcracker Market for 2025. The Houston Ballet Nutcracker Market is one of the most highly anticipated shopping events of the year. This year's market welcomed 40 new vendors and over 100,000 shoppers, with ticket sales exceeding $24 million. Over $6 million went directly to support Houston Ballet, its academy, and scholarship programs.

    9. Texas brand Lucchese launches UT Longhorns collection with boots and more. Storied Texas bootmaker Lucchese released a collaboration with the University of Texas featuring two men's styles and three women's styles. The lineup pairs white and cream colored leather with burnt orange accents as a nod to Longhorn pride.

    10. Whataburger partners with Texas activewear brand for new capsule collection. Whataburger tapped Austin-based activewear brand Burlebo for a capsule collection just in time for Father's Day. The line included caps, infant onesies, and shirts available in three different patterns.

    kendra scott engagementriver oaks districtlabubuwhataburger clothesnutcracker market 2025zac brown engagement ringmost popular stories
    news/fashion

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