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    Cliff Notes

    Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta & Marc Jacobs look to an imperfect world forfashion week surprises

    Clifford Pugh
    Sep 16, 2011 | 9:08 am
    • Although it used modern fabrics, Jacobs' collection had a bit of a Depressionera theme.
      Photo by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
    • Ralph Lauren's first look was near perfect, except for a tattered sweater.
    • Ralph Lauren's last look was a striking ivory tulle beaded dress that usednetting as an illlusion
      Photo by Peter Michael Dill/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
    • The look that closed the Oscar de la Renta show: Champagne crush pleated silktulle draped gown with rose silk taffeta bow
      Photo by Dan and Corina Lecca
    • Oscar de la Renta metallic pleated changeant lame gown
      Photo by Dan and Corina Lecca
    • Oscar de la Renta cobalt silk crinkle chiffon tiered ruffle gown
      Photo by Dan and Corina Lecca
    • Marc Jacobs closed his show with a silver texturized fabric that looks likealumnium foil.
      Photo by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

    NEW YORK — Here's a shocker: Everything is not perfect in the perfect world of Ralph Lauren.

    At first glance, the first look of his spring/summer 2012 collection was flawless: The model appeared on a sparkling all-white runway in a soft floral skirt, green tank top, pale blue cardigan, pink cloche hat and chunky raffia wedge heels, with a straw handbag as big as a picnic basket.

    Upon a closer look, however, I noticed the cardigan was frayed with huge holes at the shoulder and arms. It seemed the perfect metaphor for the spring outlook at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: With the economy in tatters, the world is not as perfect as it may seem, even for the customer who can afford just about anything.

    It seemed the perfect metaphor for the spring outlook at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: With the economy in tatters, the world is not as perfect as it may seem, even for the customer who can afford just about anything.

    Or perhaps I'm making a bigger deal of it all, for there wasn't a trace of imperfection in the rest of Lauren's sunny collection, although it did have a bit of Depression-era vibe, with 1920s hats, art deco crystal details and Jean Harlow satin gowns.

    When a designer shows more than 40 looks, the collection usually drags. But even though Lauren featured 58 looks, the show moved along swiftly, perhaps because he lays it out in crafted segments.

    The first 10 looks were a terrific mix of pastel separates: Wide leg trousers, below-the-knee skirts and lightweight cardigans in shades of celery, robin's egg blue and soft pink, with strong accessories, like an fringe, over-the-shoulder scarf bag.

    (A day earlier at a preview for a select group of reporters at the Ralph Lauren store on Manhattan's Upper East side, a full range of spring accessories was on display, including intricately crocheted high heels, wicker handbags, satin belts and vintage jewelry.)

    Then Lauren switched to an all-white mode, with glossy silk dresses, cardigans with ostrich feathers and strong menswear-inspired three-piece suits. He alternated frilly feminine looks with ultra-masculines styles in a gender bender display before returning to a series of gorgeous silver-beaded gowns that would have been in place in a high-style Depression era movie starring Fred and Ginger.

    The closing number was a master of illusion: A beaded gown with a plunging, to-the-navel neckline held together by nude netting that managed to look classy and sexy at the same time.

    From Lauren, we wouldn't expect anything less.

    Oscar de la Renta: Taking care of unfinished business

    Everything in Oscar de la Renta's world is also usually orderly. Like Lauren, de la Renta is a master of detail who doesn't like surprises. At his show, he can often be seen standing just off the runway, inspecting each model to make sure she measures up to his high standard of perfection.

    So it was a refreshing change to traipse to the 25th floor of a midtown Manhattan skyscraper and find de la Renta's world a little messed up.

    The stark surroundings proved to be a nice backdrop for de la Renta's eclectic collection that ranged from lace peasant dresses to poofy ball gowns.

    He has moved his showroom to the art deco era building, and I'm sure by next year, it will be a flawless showcase for buyers and the fashion press. But it's not finished out yet, so de la Renta showed his spring collection amid whitewashed walls with exposed pipes, large windows that allowed in natural light and faulty air-conditioning that couldn't keep pace with the sizable crowd, which included Justin Timberlake, Barbara Walters, Valentino, Nicki Minaj and one of the Olsen twins (even after all these years, I still can't tell them apart).

    The stark surroundings proved to be a nice backdrop for de la Renta's eclectic collection that ranged from lace peasant dresses to poofy ball gowns. With models in crimped hair and Led Zeppelin music on the sound system, it was hard to determine what decade the show was in. But the results were a lot of up-to-date looks for his loyal clientele who expect to be dazzled, along with some surprises to broaden his customer base.

    Unlike other designers, de la Renta doesn't have a specific theme — he is one of the few remaining designers who still believes in dressing a woman from morning to night. He opened with a bang, as models in flowing silk taffeta skirts in colors of marigold, emerald and tomato red walked the runway, before settling down with an eclectic mix of daytime wear — lace dresses, daffodil-patterned skirts, tweed blazers. Along the way, he also showed crochet suits, dresses dripping with ostrich feathers and even harem pants.

    But ball gowns remain his speciality and the range was breathtaking, from metallic column gowns to tulle-and-taffeta confections.

    After the show ended, Timberlake proved to be a real gentleman, posing for photos with anyone who asked. Seems like some stars know how to handle success.

    Marc Jacobs: All that jazz
    Marc Jacobs moved his show from a customary Monday night position to late Thursday evening — the last slot on the fashion week calendar — because he said that Hurricane Irene had messed up his production schedule. It seemed odd to me that the rest of the fashion world can stay on schedule, but Jacobs can't. However, after viewing his collection, I can see where the extra time was needed.
    Jacobs constantly leads the way in innovation and his spring collection is a masterpiece of fabrication even if the looks are likely to leave shoppers cold. He featured dresses made from transparent shrink-wrap cellophane and silk-woven Christmas tree tinsel, skirts of silicone fringe and coats of fabric that resembles aluminum foil. The shoes range from clear ankle boots to retro two-tone penny loafers.
    Jacobs constantly leads the way in innovation and his spring collection is a masterpiece of fabrication even if the looks are likely to leave shoppers cold.
    In a nod to Bob Fosse, the show opened and closed with the array of models in stylized "All That Jazz" poses on chairs, with Jacobs as the "director" in the background. Nars cosmetics founder François Nars said that Jacobs showed him images of Amy Winehouse, Pasty Cline and the Broadway musical Sweet Charity for inspiration for the makeup.
    "Because the girls are to be staring into the eyes of the audience when the curtain opens, we decided to focus on the eyes. We were inspired by this book from the 1960s, Cowboy Kate, whose character wore false eyelashes and Marc mentioned Bob Fosse and so it was really important to make the girls look like dancers, to treat them like characters not models. The skin is meant to look like it is dewy, like the girls have been dancing - it's very Cabaret," Nars said in a statement, adding that he used three sets of eyelashes for each model.
    Like Lauren, Jacobs seems to be hinting at the unsettled times, since Cabaret recalls another turbulent time in the 1930s when economic chaos reigned. But for all the technical excellence and the models' odd touches (they wore Rosie the Riveter bandanas on their heads), the collection has a harsh, cold feeling.
    Jacobs' designs have never sold well in Houston, a buyer for a major retailer recently told me, because his clothes simply aren't sexy enough for a Texas clientele. But he always sets trends, so his influence is likely to be felt next spring, as other designers emulate his looks.
    unspecified
    news/fashion

    boots with a story

    Houston bootmaker offers $5,000 cowboy boot and gator hunt adventure

    Gabi De la Rosa
    May 16, 2025 | 11:30 am
    Republic Boot Company Gator Hunt
    Photo courtesy of Republic Boot Company
    Houston bootmaker, Republic Boot Company, turns gator hunts into a custom pair of boots.

    In Houston, where custom boots are a source of great pride and style, one local brand is taking the bespoke boot experience to a new level. Republic Boot Company, known for its elevated, hand-crafted creations, just launched a Gator Hunt Experiencewhere customers can source an alligator hide, which will be transformed into a pair of cowboy boots.

    Part adventure and part traditional craftsmanship, the experience begins with a hunt in the marshlands near Anahuac, about an hour from Houston, and ends with a custom-made pair of alligator-skin cowboy boots tailored to the client's vision by a Republic Boot Company boot specialist.

    "At Republic Boot Company, we pride ourselves on crafting boots that are not just footwear, but a legacy," said Chris Conrad, owner of Republic Boot Company. "This new Gator Hunt Experience takes that commitment to personalization to an unprecedented level, offering our customers a unique and memorable journey taking them from the bayou to the heart of the Bayou City."

    The gator hunt is $5,000 per person and includes an 8.5-foot alligator (larger alligators incur extra costs). Individuals of all experience levels can participate, and all necessary permits and equipment are provided to ensure a safe adventure. After the hunt, the hide will be tanned during an eight-month process to ensure a one-of-a-kind pair of boots. Just in case the kicks aren't enough of a conversation starter, participants will also receive a professional mount of the alligator head.

    Alligator hunting season runs from September 11 to September 30, so the boots won't be ready for the 2026 Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo. Once they are complete, however, they will be wearable pieces of art with a memorable story behind them. Those interested in extending their only-in-Texas half-day hunt into an overnight experience can book overnight accommodations through Republic Boot Company.

    custom boots in houstonhouston custom bootsalligator bootsrepublic boot company
    news/fashion

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