NEW YORK — Lela Rose traditionally shows her collection on the first Sunday of every fashion week. But when she saw that the date for unveiling her spring 2012 line was Sept. 11, she nearly cancelled the show.

But she thought twice about it and went ahead, opening with a two-minute recording of John Lennon's "Imagine," while spectators pensively waited in the dark for the show to begin.

"At first I was nervous about showing today, but I feel like it is actually a great opportunity," the Texas-raised designer said backstage at Lincoln Center after her show. "It shows how we're moving forward and that's what we have to do. So in a way, I feel lucky we got to do it today."

On the 10th anniversary of the terrorist attacks, designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week honored the occasion in their own special ways.

• Victoria Beckham stopped her morning show and asked for a moment of silence at the exact time when the attackers had crashed into the Twin Towers.
• Diane von Furstenberg handed out tiny American flags during her traditional walk down the runway after her show ended Sunday afternoon.
• Donna Karan paid tribute to the city's resilience in program notes for her DKNY collection and walked the runway to "American Woman," stopping to pick up her granddaughter, at the close of her show.
• And, in his program notes, Tommy Hilfiger saluted his support for the New York Police and Fire Widows' and Children's Benefit Fund on the 10th anniversary of the attacks.

In each case, the designer then presented his or her spring collection, to prove that indeed, life goes on.

Lela Rose: Color & Pumped Up Kicks

Rose centered on a quirky theme — a "neon graveyard" of broken signs in Las Vegas and Coney Island — as the basis for a sunny collection that includes orange and yellow cut-outs in the shape of light bulb ovals, print dresses and slacks in swirling shades and colorblock T-shirts and dresses. Rose also wisely includes a number of cardigans clients can wear in next summer's over-air-conditioned surroundings.

Rose, who traditionally picks the coolest soundtracks for her shows, included in the mix my current favorite song, "Pumped Up Kicks" by Foster the People, as well as "At My Heels" by Twin Shadow and "Junk of the Heart" by the Kooks.

Backstage, the designer received congratulations from Mariska Hargitay, Mandy Moore, Susan Sarandon and Sarandon's daughter Eva Amurri. Rose is designing the gown for Amurri's upcoming wedding to former MLS soccer player Kyle Martino as well as dresses for the bridesmaids and Sarandon.

How did the 25-year-old actress choose the gown?

"It was easy. I tried on the dress and I knew it was the one. I fell in love with it. It made me feel so beautiful," Amurri said.

Derek Lam: California dreamin'

Before I left for New York, fashion blogger and CultureMap contributor Roz Pactor and I had a discussion about the merits of wearing leather in the summer. I'm against it — I don't consider it a summer fabric —but she makes a strong case for incorporating it into the Houston wardrobe, particularly in that long transition into fall. (She will address the topic in a future column.)

I thought about our discussion as I watched the chic Derek Lam spring collection, because it is loaded with lightweight leather pieces — jackets with short and long sleeves, blazers, coats, and even a leather dress and vest made of leather in the front and linen in the back.

All the leather proved to be a perfect counterpoint to the colorful kaleidoscope prints and architectural patterns that formed the basis of Lam's collection. In program notes, the designer said he based it on mid-century modern homes, like the Kaufman house in Palm Springs, designed by architect Richard Neutra.

The retro-combination, an emerging trend this fashion week, was evidenced in clothing with clean lines in colors of the desert. The Rat Pack is indeed, back.

Diane von Furstenberg: Go global

With iconic designers Valentino and Oscar de la Renta on the front row, Diane von Furstenberg also channeled a bit of a '60s vibe. Her collection, titled "Beginnings," featured sparkly mini-dresses, lounging gowns, colorful jackets and models in modified beehives and little makeup. But as with most DVF collections, all sorts of other references were in evidence, too.

The first looks were all white — a shirt dress in her famous wrap style, a scalloped lace dress, a blazer with cargo shorts — but there was lots of color, too, with separates in combinations of brown, beige and turquoise, a showstopping one-shoulder floral gown in an eye-popping coral that would be perfect for Palm Beach or Palm Springs, and a bundle of African prints.

Von Furstenberg is nothing if not global.

DKNY: For the woman on the move

For the showing of her DKNY line, Donna Karan flipped things around. Instead of entering from the back of the building, models in floppy hats briskly entered from the street, as if alighting from a taxi. They then crisscrossed the rows of onlookers in a spirited gate. It was great theater — and the strong collection was pretty nifty, too.

It features crisp navy jacket dresses, ivory shirt dresses with a longer hem in the back that flows with the breeze and blazers in navy, indigo, pink and a splattered pattern. One message from Karan: In the recession, every woman can still use a good jacket. Although one red,white and blue tweed suit looked like it could have dropped in from a Chanel collection, most jackets were pure Karan: Tailored pieces with clean lines that look modern today and will last a lifetime.

Tommy Hilfiger: Trendmaster

Tommy Hilfiger must have gotten the fashion week memo. The prince of prep's spring/summer 2012 collection covered many trends that have been emerging during fashion week:

• A '60s influence in crisp shirtdresses and plaid pieces with matching shoes and totes
• Color (and colorblocking) in everything from ponchos to a one-piece bathing suit to kaftans
• Leather pieces, including a maroon suit and mustard-colored jacket

He also featured colorful chunky sweaters, tailored denim jackets and striped pants cropped just above the ankle. Like most collections seen thus far, it had a happy vibe — and more color than has been seen on the runway in a long time.

Hear "Pumped Up Kicks":