75th anniversary in 2014

Frankly, my dear, we do give a damn: Restoration underway on classic Gone Withthe Wind gowns

The famous curtain gown.
Gone with the Wind
Looking through an opti-visor, conservator Cara Varnell studies the greencurtain dress jacket.
Photo by Pete Smith
Jennifer Moss, a master's student in Costume Studies at New York Universityinterning at the Ransom Center this summer, removes thread from the bottom ofthe pockets holding weights in the burgundy ball gown.
Photo by Pete Smith
Conservator Cara Varnell works on the burgundy ball gown from Gone With TheWind. Varnell determined that some feathers were original and some werereplacement.
Photo by Pete Smith
One of the weights found lining the back hem of the burgundy ball gown. Theconservation team removed the weights because they were pulling on the gown,possibly leading to tears.
Photo by Pete Smith
The wedding veil from Gone With The Wind.
Photo by Pete Smith

The cultural impact of Gone With the Wind may not be fading, but the costumes used in the 1939 film are a different story. Some of the most famous outfits from the classic movie are sagging, becoming brittle and coming apart at the seams — normal deterioration for film costumes, but tragic for those interested in Hollywood history.

That’s why the Harry Ransom Center, The University of Texas’ humanities research library and museum, has embarked on an intensive restoration of five of the dresses worn by Vivien Leigh in the classic film: The dressing gown, ball gown, curtain dress, wedding dress and blue velvet peignoir.

The Harry Ransom Center at the University of Texas has embarked on an intensive restoration of five of the dresses worn by Vivien Leigh in the classic film: The dressing gown, ball gown, curtain dress, wedding dress and blue velvet peignoir.

According to collection assistant for costumes and personal effects Jill Morena, "Most costumes are not constructed to last beyond the production of the film, nor are they finished in the same way as a ready-to-wear garment. We've taken steps to prevent further damage, but we want to be able to safely display and share the dresses."

The dresses were frequently displayed following the film’s debut, causing wear and tear, and have been a part of the Ransom Center’s collection since the 1980s. They were donated as part of the David O. Selznick archive, a collection of 5,000 boxes of Hollywood memorabilia. The archive is the Ransom Center’s largest collection.

For the restoration, the Ransom Center hired independent art conservator Cara Varnell, who specializes in textiles, historic clothing and performance costumes. Although Varnell has not been able to fix all signs of deterioration of the dresses, her goal has been to stabilize the costumes to prevent further deterioration. Conservation efforts have included cleaning using a low-suction vacuum and brushes, looking for stitches that have snapped or may do so soon, and adding bits of fabric for support.

Varnell has focused on conserving the green curtain dress, the burgundy ball gown and the green velvet dressing gown. In some instances, such as for the silk wedding veil, whose fibers were damaged and brittle due to age, attempts at conservation would only have worsened the items’ condition, so they were left without treatment.

The Ransom Center is also working with UT’s Division of Textiles and Apparel to determine why parts of the green curtain dress have faded. It is believed that the fading was not caused by light exposure, so the Textiles and Apparel Technology Lab will analyze the fabric to determine the cause, possibly exposure to chemicals during exhibitions.

The restoration is funded by $30,000 in donations raised by the Harry Ransom Center last year. That money has gone toward the restoration itself as well as toward a protective housing and custom-fitted mannequins that will prevent further damage to the dresses, as much as possible, when they go on display.

Currently, the dresses are not displayed at the Ransom Center, though they are available for viewing by researchers upon request. They’re stored in temperature- and humidity-controlled boxes lined with acid-free tissue paper, which are optimal conditions for preserving fabrics. However, the dresses will be displayed, both at the Ransom Center and other institutions, in 2014 as part of the 75th anniversary celebrations for Gone With the Wind.

unspecified

where to shop now

Where to shop now: 12 Houston stores with must-see holiday finds

Photo by Marco Torres

Bun B and PURPLE co-founder Luke Cosby at Purple's new Galleria outpost.

The holiday shopping season is in full swing in Houston, and shoppers are already busy checking names off their gift lists. Despite the fashionably late arrival of Thanksgiving this year, there is still plenty of time to find the perfect presents for everyone on the proverbial shopping list.

Whether hunting for something stylish, timeless, or entertaining, this Houston-centric shopping guide covers everything. There are ideas for every budget, age, and style preference, making shopping a bit more effortless and fun. Happy shopping, Houston!

Ada & Edith
The Houston-based style-driven women's wear brand recently released its Fall/Winter 2024 collection featuring eight highly curated pieces made with beautiful fabrics and expert tailoring. The new online collection features dresses, matching sets, tops, and skirts.

Beaufort Bonnet Company
The upscale children's lifestyle apparel brand recently opened its boutique in Rice Village next to White House Black Market. The brand offers everything from traditional special-occasion apparel pieces to ready-to-play wear for boys and girls (sizes infant – 14). Moms will love the great shopping while kids will have fun at the store's play area.

Foreign Fare
Holiday jet setters will be thrilled to give or get Houston-based travel brand Foreign Fare's travel clothing. The bestsellers, the Jetsetter jacket and Wrap Me Up Dress, are a modern take on travel apparel and made from wrinkle-resistant fabrics that effortlessly go from day to night. They feature travel-ready amenities, including hidden pockets and adjustable waistbands.

From Marfa
Tanglewood's favorite children's apparel store offers the cutest holiday must-haves for babies to teens and complimentary gift wrapping that will save time during this busy season. Shoppers can snag holiday and winter finds from brands including Little English, Luigi Kids, Pink Chicken, Katie J NYC, and more. The boutique also offers toys, books, and accessories that make great gifts and stocking stuffers.

Kimono Zulu
Houston-based brand Kimono Zulu offers one-of-a-kind vintage kimonos that make a unique and memorable holiday gift. Each kimono provides a piece of Japan's craftsmanship and artistry and is a sustainable alternative to fast fashion. The brand's kimonos are available at its Upper Kirby boutique or online.

Krewe
Krewe, an independent eyewear brand founded in New Orleans, is opening its first permanent location in Houston in Rice Village. Nnown for its high-quality, small-batch, handcrafted frames, Krewe combines the style and culture of the Big Easy with a modern and iconic style. Krewe's new outpost is located at 5515 Kelvin Dr. #125 and opens on December 7.

Lafayette 148
Lafayette 148 has partnered with Save Venice, a leading American non-profit dedicated to preserving and promoting the artistic heritage of Venice, Italy. The partnership inspired a capsule collection, available at the brand's outpost in the Galleria, featuring dresses, tops, skirts, and accessories. The capsule collection's sales will be donated to Save Venice's "Women Artists of Venice" program through the end of 2024.

Léránt
This Galleria neighborhood boutique makes being the "hostess with the mostess" easy, especially during the holiday season with elegant finds at every price point. Shoppers will find everything from tableware and crystal to gifts and festive holiday decor. Customers can shop with 15 percent off their purchases on December 4 from 4-7 pm.

Lucchese Bootmaker
Lucchese has launched a new gemstone line just in time for the holiday season. The latest offering includes the Gemstone Suede Boot Collection featuring the famous Priscilla classic style, which now comes in new rich suede colorways for the holiday season. The Gemstone Python Boot Collection includes six distinctive styles with rich, new colorways — Emerald, Amber, and Garnet — in two silhouettes: the Presley Exotic and the Dale Exotic. The Gemstone Python Clutch and Belt pay homage to 140 years of Lucchese and are handmade from rich tones of python leather.

M Penner
Named "One of the top men's specialty stores in the U.S." by Esquire Magazine, M Penner is celebrating 50 years in business — a massive feat in Houston's finicky fashion scene. In addition to custom fittings, perfect for holiday parties, customers can shop elevated brands, including Brunello Cucinelli, Zenga, Canali, Isaia, AG Jeans, Carrot & Gibbs, Davek, Paul Smith, and more.

Purple
Co-founded by Houston native Luke Crosby, Purple recently opened its first Texas location in the Galleria. Alreday a top-selling denim brand at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, Purple is known for its luxury denim and curated apparel worn by celebrities including Justin Bieber, Michael B. Jordan, Jimmy Butler, and Houston's own Bun B.

Zadok Jewelers
Post Oak hotspot Zadok Jewelers is ready for the "most wonderful gifts of the year" as they gear up for the holiday season with a schedule full of shopping events. Guests can pursue the massive jewelry store during its extended holiday hours while shopping exclusive pieces from The Vault or the Vintage & High Jewelry Collection. Zadok will also host designer trunk shows and its annual Ultimate Watch Event featuring new releases from 25 leading watchmakers.

Photo by Marco Torres

Bun B and PURPLE co-founder Luke Cosby at Purple's new Galleria outpost.

foreign fare zadok jewelers kimono zulu lerant from marfa purple krewe lucchese boots where to shop in houston shopping